I NEED MORE HP AND TORQUE.......HELP
#1
I NEED MORE HP AND TORQUE.......HELP
Hey everyone smile.gif
What upgrades can/should I do to gain more HP and torque.
I want low-end torque. As soon as I find a supercharger and have the money for one I'm getting it.
I went to the tracks about a month ago and they opened it for drifting/laps. Man I got to tell ya; it was off the hook. Beats the ¼ mile any day. It takes skill and experience to do laps (well)....lol.
Anyhow, please help
Dave
What upgrades can/should I do to gain more HP and torque.
I want low-end torque. As soon as I find a supercharger and have the money for one I'm getting it.
I went to the tracks about a month ago and they opened it for drifting/laps. Man I got to tell ya; it was off the hook. Beats the ¼ mile any day. It takes skill and experience to do laps (well)....lol.
Anyhow, please help
Dave
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
1)Save money
2)Decide if youre going NA or Turbo
3)after your decision make sure all the eng.mods are done before the appearance mods
4)Ask Random´s(scientist in tibbys)opinion
5)Ask lo and so tibby´s(scientist in suspension systems)opinion
6)Read previous posts of forums.
FOR NA MODS(my opinion)
1)4-2-1 headers
2)Full exhaust system
3)Reprogrammed ECU(if this can be done to your ecu)
4)CAI or RAM or just a cone filter attached to your intake.
2nd stage:
1)Big Bore throttle body
2)More wild cams
3)Port and polish job
4)New plug wires(MAGNECOR)etc etc
5)New spark plugs
TURBO setup(in my opinion)
1)Seriously swap a mitsu eclipse motor at your tibby
otherwise
2)Get yourself a Lancia Delta HF Integralle turbo as it is and bolt it on your tibby(as I did),and no problem.
3)Get a ready turbo kit like Alpine´s
Prepare for serious bucks maan..
If you want top performance get a turbo kit from the beginning.All the other mods(in my opinion)are boring after awhile.Boost is never boring though.
C U Turboman(2-6-5-hp-at-the-wheels-)
2)Decide if youre going NA or Turbo
3)after your decision make sure all the eng.mods are done before the appearance mods
4)Ask Random´s(scientist in tibbys)opinion
5)Ask lo and so tibby´s(scientist in suspension systems)opinion
6)Read previous posts of forums.
FOR NA MODS(my opinion)
1)4-2-1 headers
2)Full exhaust system
3)Reprogrammed ECU(if this can be done to your ecu)
4)CAI or RAM or just a cone filter attached to your intake.
2nd stage:
1)Big Bore throttle body
2)More wild cams
3)Port and polish job
4)New plug wires(MAGNECOR)etc etc
5)New spark plugs
TURBO setup(in my opinion)
1)Seriously swap a mitsu eclipse motor at your tibby
otherwise
2)Get yourself a Lancia Delta HF Integralle turbo as it is and bolt it on your tibby(as I did),and no problem.
3)Get a ready turbo kit like Alpine´s
Prepare for serious bucks maan..
If you want top performance get a turbo kit from the beginning.All the other mods(in my opinion)are boring after awhile.Boost is never boring though.
C U Turboman(2-6-5-hp-at-the-wheels-)
#6
Corrections:
Motor Swap: Mitsu Eclipse/DSM Talon motors do NOT swap into the Tiburon chassis. The 4G63T attaches to the transmission on the OTHER side of the motor, which makes it basically impossible to swap. If you really feel you need to swap motors with something Mitsubishi, your only real option is a JDM EVO5/6 motor. These motors will bolt up to the stock Tiburon/Elantra tranny, but still require multiple chassis and wiring changes to fit.
Why swap the motor, when a set of rods and pistons make the Tiburon motor able to deal with 500+ wheel horsepower easily?
Reprogrammed ECU: Good luck, these are about $400 a pop, not including shipping from Australia or Korea, AND you must ship your entire stock ECU to them first. You're out of your car for several weeks until they send your stocker back -- and then it will be at least another week before the new one is sent. And when it is sent, it's only programmed for the mods you told them about: any new mods, and you're likely going to need it reprogrammed to take advantage of it.
Cams: Cams are fine and dandy, but you do NOT want to buy a set until you've made up your mind what you want... If you buy a set of gnarly cams for wild N/A power, chances are they will SUCK for turbocharged applications. Turbo cars and N/A cars require much different cams to make power.
Turbo setup: If you want a kit, you basically only have one option -- and not a great one at that. If you would instead have someone personally assemble your setup, you may pay a bit more BUT the outcome will be much better. You want low-end torque? Buy a small VF11 ISHI Warner or ball bearing T03 -- it will spool to full boost before you hit 3 grand, but because they're so small you'll not make full boost to redline.
In a four cylinder car, it's all about tradeoffs... If you want huge low-end torque, be prepared to scrap your top-end power. If you want crazy-ass top-end power, you're going to be scrapping the low-end torque.
-Red-
Motor Swap: Mitsu Eclipse/DSM Talon motors do NOT swap into the Tiburon chassis. The 4G63T attaches to the transmission on the OTHER side of the motor, which makes it basically impossible to swap. If you really feel you need to swap motors with something Mitsubishi, your only real option is a JDM EVO5/6 motor. These motors will bolt up to the stock Tiburon/Elantra tranny, but still require multiple chassis and wiring changes to fit.
Why swap the motor, when a set of rods and pistons make the Tiburon motor able to deal with 500+ wheel horsepower easily?
Reprogrammed ECU: Good luck, these are about $400 a pop, not including shipping from Australia or Korea, AND you must ship your entire stock ECU to them first. You're out of your car for several weeks until they send your stocker back -- and then it will be at least another week before the new one is sent. And when it is sent, it's only programmed for the mods you told them about: any new mods, and you're likely going to need it reprogrammed to take advantage of it.
Cams: Cams are fine and dandy, but you do NOT want to buy a set until you've made up your mind what you want... If you buy a set of gnarly cams for wild N/A power, chances are they will SUCK for turbocharged applications. Turbo cars and N/A cars require much different cams to make power.
Turbo setup: If you want a kit, you basically only have one option -- and not a great one at that. If you would instead have someone personally assemble your setup, you may pay a bit more BUT the outcome will be much better. You want low-end torque? Buy a small VF11 ISHI Warner or ball bearing T03 -- it will spool to full boost before you hit 3 grand, but because they're so small you'll not make full boost to redline.
In a four cylinder car, it's all about tradeoffs... If you want huge low-end torque, be prepared to scrap your top-end power. If you want crazy-ass top-end power, you're going to be scrapping the low-end torque.
-Red-
#7
Since you want low end torque you should leave the cams alone. Like Red was talking about trade offs your best hope would be to stay with the stock camshaft. And deffinetly if you think about keeping it N/A, almost every after market camshaft you can ever find is set up to have more hp not torque.
You were talking about getting the SC, but now that I have seen both Random and Bradleys cars, I think that the turbo from alpine is better then the SC in every way. Since Random reachs full boost at 2500 rpm, you would never need to worry about low end torque when racing on a track or on a 1/4 mile track.
You were talking about getting the SC, but now that I have seen both Random and Bradleys cars, I think that the turbo from alpine is better then the SC in every way. Since Random reachs full boost at 2500 rpm, you would never need to worry about low end torque when racing on a track or on a 1/4 mile track.
#8
QUOTE
Originally posted by SUAVE:
I have a Weapon R Dragon filter and I just left the sensor hanging there...lol. No check eng light yet. It's been awhile since I did that.
I have a Weapon R Dragon filter and I just left the sensor hanging there...lol. No check eng light yet. It's been awhile since I did that.
You won't necessarily get a CEL from this...but your car isn't reading the correct temperature of incoming air. It's thinking that the air is MUCH warmer than it really is, because it's measuring the temperature in the engine bay. Odds are your car is running on the lean side as a result.
#9
QUOTE
Originally posted by Iago:
You won't necessarily get a CEL from this...but your car isn't reading the correct temperature of incoming air. It's thinking that the air is MUCH warmer than it really is, because it's measuring the temperature in the engine bay. Odds are your car is running on the lean side as a result.
You won't necessarily get a CEL from this...but your car isn't reading the correct temperature of incoming air. It's thinking that the air is MUCH warmer than it really is, because it's measuring the temperature in the engine bay. Odds are your car is running on the lean side as a result.
WOW....I didn't know that. I'll put it in there tonight smile.gif
Thanks, Much Luv
Dave
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you do put it in there, take a picture. I have the Weapon-R Dragon, and I have the Ghetto setup. I couldn't figure out how that was supposed to fit into that small piping that they said it would, so i put the little pipe on the intake, and the big pipe over the little pipe, and still it was a squeeze to get it in there. and it's twice the size.