I'll try that, and see if it works, thanks

 

Have you had a Gearbox/ Clutch change ?

 

Can you Test your car battery is getting 13.5 to 14V

 

It's an automatic

 

I know that when it was really acting up, it dropped to 12.9, (before the alternator was replaced and the battery harness) but we're not entirely sure what it's getting now

 

If i was with you...



Step one. Remove the battery and see if ur car stalls. may have a blow alternator fuse or need new Cable.



Step Two: When ur engine first started. it over-fuels to compensate for the cold. Since you said u had the cat changed. Don't suppose they put ur 02 Sensor wiring back in a safe place. Because if the engine loses ability to sensor how much fuel is added it can mess up Idle and be a little quicker on full Throttle.



Step Tree: Unplug injectors and Test all cylinders for a even spark and same size gap on plugs.



Step Four: Pressure Test the Cylinders.



Step Five: Crank/Cam Sensor Maybe Faulty (This will throw up a error most times If your sparks are good this isn't them problem) (a cam sensor will make u slow.. but it will still run.



Step Six: If all above are 100% Fine There are 12 Grounds on the Tib. Remove them and Re bolt them up





All of the above can be done by you (Step Four need a tool that screws into ur spark plug holes.. there about 20 Bucks here)

 

all the engine sensors run off 4 grounds Total



2 Sets of engine sensor Grounds (set 1 Grounds Coolent Temp Ground/ TPS ect)



1 Sets of More powerful Sensor Grounds (set 2, O2 Sensor Grounds ect)



The powerful Sensor grounds Run into 2 Main ECU Grounds (2mm Cable) They are Grounded to G10. Which is on the side of ur intake manifold on left side.



This Ground must me be ok too a degree. This Spreads off into a set of cables that Sheld your Sensors from Noise. Noise can Affect your crank sensor Throwing the signal.





All the engine sensor will be grounded to the Engine or VERY close. You can NOT ground engine sensor to the body. The Ground Loops causes so much noise.



Have a nose in your engine bay and remove and rebolt any grounds. ( u have one the side of ur battery also on your gearbox.



Sadly i'm not sure i can help you without more info

 

Have u heard any Weird noise from the Gearbox area ?

 

A voltmeter from China will set you back all of $10. Grab one and test the voltage at the battery terminals. If the voltage is low with the engine running, there is a problem in the charging system and the alternator is highly suspect. It could also be bad cables.



Go to a different store, you could have found the one with dummies behind the counter.



I don't know if your car is affected, but mine was... there was a wiring problem with the MAFs causing stalling at idle, and it was supposed to be fixed by dealerships under warranty. Have your dealership check their computer to see if it was done to your car, and ask their service guy to have a look to see if he thinks it might need to be re-done.

 

Okay, so I ended up finding a code in the history and it was for a cylinder 1 misfire (which the dealership told me there were any codes in my history - not too happy about that). I changed out my spark plug wires because they weren't snug and that stopped the hiccup. However, I my headlights are still dimmed, and I'm thinking that it could be my sub (1000 amp) that could be the problem. I also have a pair of angel eye headlights that I'm looking to put in after I get everything figured out. I was told that I'll need a high output alternator to keep up with everything, but I'm thinking of just having the one that I have in rewound. Has anyone encountered this? I've searched around the website a little but what I've come across, every one is drawing a lot more power than I will. I'm not even sure how much my new headlights will draw