Just so i know im getting the right bit as i cant find IAB at hyundai webtech and i think i might have disconnected the wronge part.

The part i disconnected was that thin black hose going from the from the front of the inlet manifold to the top of the engine block. As i cant find any electrical connection to this i get the feeling that it is just a breather that i disconnected.

Is the one you are talking about the Idle Speed Control (ISC) actuator its under fuel system, MFI control system, location of MFI component and its item 9. Its at the back of the inlet manifold. IF i have done it wronge could you just clarify on your first set up test you gave me. Was it that breather i had to disconect or this or both. If i did do it wronge could you say exactly what to disconnect as this is something i havnt done before so im not sure exactly what to block off.

Any help would be great Random. TIA Jon

Oh and the latest quirk is it some times now tries to idle at 1200 rpm and after about 60 seconds it will start to drop.

 

Random?

 

Yes, the Idle Speed Control is also called the Idle Air Bypass. That is the device I was refering to.

That is the hose you need to block off when you attempt to set the idle to 800 RPM.

Disconnect the hose from the intake elbow, and block that hose off. You want to make sure NO AIR gets into the Idle Speed Control motor.

Then turn on all electrical accessories, then set the idle to 800 RPM again with the idle adjust screw on the Throttle body. Once the idle is stable at 800 RPM, turn all the electrical stuff off, then turn the car off. Reconnect the hose.

Then start the car back up. The idle should be stable at 800 RPM.

If it is not, try disconnecting the Throttle position sensor electrical connection. If that makes no change in idle. Reconnect it, and disconnect the idle speed control motor electrical connection. If that stablizes your idle...you found your faulty part.

Then let me know if you still have the problem.

it sounds like you disconnected the valvecover breather hose, rather than the idle speed control hose.

[ November 04, 2002, 11:47 PM: Message edited by: Random ]

 

God i feel thick im just going to take my head for a dump. Ill try it again after work and let you know the results this time round (with the correct hose disconnected)

Thanks Jon

 

Nah did the set up that way and no change it also bobs with the AIB disconnected and with the TPS disconnected. tps makes no real change and the IAB just makes it bob larger.

Ill decribe some of the other symptoms i have found since i have been looking.

When i set it up it ran at 800 for a while then it pickeds upto 1000 and stays thier now.Also when it is bobbing if you press the throttle down and release it settles for a while (10 - 60 seconds)and then starts again. Finally if you press the accelerator pedle progresivly and very slowly what happens is the bobbing just gets bigger and bigger until you reach a point where all of a sudden the engine accelerates to about 3000rpm. it is impossible to keep the revs at say 2000rpm at this point it just bobs like mad.

 

There's something I'm missing here. And I just can't think of what at the moment.

Do you have an Air/Fuel gauge? Which o2 sensor is it connected to? Does it occilate with the RPMS?

 

I dont have any guages at the moment they are next on the list when i get some more cash. Its really wierd how it wont rev at 2000rpm it just sort of bounces and then bypasses that part, Oh and when it shoots upto 3000rpm there is no bounce at all.

 

Found out what it is its a slight problem with the map. Ive spoke to Owen developments and they said not a problem pop it back in any time and they will smooth it out. Its because they made so many changes and its hard to get it perfect first time until it has been drove a while.

Oh and some more interesting info in the Alpine forum that i found out from someone else i spoke to today.

[ November 06, 2002, 08:36 AM: Message edited by: Jon ]

 

???? and that news is?