Hey Koreandude, I think you might have that backwards. Think of the wiring of a house. It's all parallell. If you plug in too much stuff you'll trip the circuit breaker aka too MUCH juice. Series, you have current running through one thing so the next thing in a series circuit gets the electricity that the first didn't absorb aka less power. 5th grade science class. Who'd of thought learning that crap would come in handy?

 

I almost forgot. Think of it this way. When you put anything in a circuit that restricts that flow then less electricity is able to run through it so having several things in parallel puts almost no restriction on the circuit thus more electricity can flow (sometimes too much) and things in series will restrict the flow so less electricity is able to flow through the whole thing.

 

Hi Russ, I don't want to come off as you don't understand electronics but in basic DC electronics, parallel circuits end up splitting current between them but the voltages stay the same. You're correct about parallel circuits in a house and thats why you have approx. 120v at each outlet...because of a parallel layout.

In a series circuit voltage is dropped across proportinally to resistive value....the bigger the resistive value the more voltage is dropped across it. It's all in Ohms Law.

So lets say your voltage (lets make it 12v)"sees" a 1 ohm (R1), a 1000 ohm (R2) and a 100k ohm (R3) resistor. If you add all the voltage drops across those 3 resistors you get 12v. So lets calculate current..I=12v * 101001 ohms (sum of all resistance) -->.000118 or .118mA. Ohms Law says current is a constant in a series circuit so now we can calc. Voltage drops on all 3 resistors.
Vr1=.118mA * 1 ohm -->.118mV
Vr2=.118mA * 1kohm --> 118mV
Vr3=.118mA * 100kohm-> 11.8V
so you can see how
1. current is a constant in a series circuit everywhere in that circuit
2. the biggest voltage drop is not necessarily the 1st resistor (or resistance) by the power source. Hopefully this helps explain my reasoning for series vs. parallel circuitry. wink

 

Sorry 'bout that. I never knew there was that kind of a difference between DC and AC. Well thanks for teaching me something new.

 

Don't sweat it man. Hey, at least you didn't have to pay $25,000 and 109 credit hours! Thats why i love these boards...so everyone can share knowledge.

And you DEFINITLEY don't want to get into AC theory. It's like 20 times more complicated than DC. Thank God cars run off a 12v DC system.

Oh by the way,
I picked up a back issue of Import Tuner that had the article on the Hyper Ground System and it said specifically that all the wires were in series and these items were grounded....2 wires from neg. terminal on battery -->1 to chassis the other to the first ground point. Ground points are Transmission, block, head, intake manifold and again the chassis.

EDIT:
Well, i installed the whole thing (chassis to neg term., neg. term. to transmission to coil pack to intake manifold to chassis (fire wall area) in series like the Hypger Ground System. However my lights still "dip". My car is a '97 so maybe things aren't making good contact due to corrosion of materials. What do u guys think?

[ March 05, 2003, 09:43 AM: Message edited by: Koreandude ]

 

And let's not forget that there is like a 12:1 step down local transformer.. that's why you can have currents in teh 30, some times 40 amperes.

In any case, you actually get like 170v at the plug... but that's not RMS thats Vp-p.

As for the extra wiring... I dunno sounds fishy to me. If you want to dispel voltage drops, add a capacitor in line with the battery to prevent surges. You don't need a big one, like 50,000 mF, I guess the ones used for audio is good, but that's probably overkill. As for gains, LOL I don't think so... just pull up your handbrake one notch to remove the DRL...

 

Hmm, a big cap would probably supply the current enough to prevent the engine from "dipping" however these guys are doing it without them by improving the grounding system. Somehow mine isn't working. As for performance gains? It's been dyno tested on many cars new and old in the Dec. '02 issue of Import Tuner (issue #045). Some cars improved better than others probably attesting to the effeciency of the factory grounding system. Oh well, I'm gonna rip everything off and start over. suicide

 

anyone actually has the pictures of where wires goes to for V6 ?

 

you just ground the intake manifold, engine block, and ignition coil to the battery negative terminal. you can also run one from the firewall to ground that.