My Ideas For Making The Megan Equal Length Header Fit Everything
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My Ideas For Making The Megan Equal Length Header Fit Everything
So I was just asked about getting a header, not the Megan one, because it hits something on the tranny for Accents with Beta swaps. I dont have a clue where this thing is that it hits, but it got me to thinking of easy ways to adjust the fitment of this header. So here's my thoughts. Is there anything wrong with double flanging a header???
If you had any machine shop take a header, copy its head flange, and then weld the new one to the old, is there any reason it wouldn't work? I mean, if the only thing that presents a problem is that the head studs wouldn't be long enough, you could just make an exact copy of the original flange, then redrill to open up the original holes, weld it to the newly made copy to create a countersunk effect:
1 Original Header to use to make a new flange
2 New copy of the original flange with small bolt holes
3 redrilled original bolt holes (big enough to fit a 14mm socket)
4 Lay the new flange over the original, weld it and smooth out the welds inside the runners
You could do this to the lower flange too instead, or together with the above. I would think that would move the header far enough forward to clear whatever it hits, clear any issues with oil pans, and even give you the ability to create very slight angles if you had the copy flange at a very slight angle? I'm completely thinking outloud here, so if I'm way off, by all means tell me. It just seems like a feasible solution to those unable to just bolt up and go with this awesome header. The work seems easy enough for any machinist to pull off.
Dumb?
If you had any machine shop take a header, copy its head flange, and then weld the new one to the old, is there any reason it wouldn't work? I mean, if the only thing that presents a problem is that the head studs wouldn't be long enough, you could just make an exact copy of the original flange, then redrill to open up the original holes, weld it to the newly made copy to create a countersunk effect:
1 Original Header to use to make a new flange
2 New copy of the original flange with small bolt holes
3 redrilled original bolt holes (big enough to fit a 14mm socket)
4 Lay the new flange over the original, weld it and smooth out the welds inside the runners
You could do this to the lower flange too instead, or together with the above. I would think that would move the header far enough forward to clear whatever it hits, clear any issues with oil pans, and even give you the ability to create very slight angles if you had the copy flange at a very slight angle? I'm completely thinking outloud here, so if I'm way off, by all means tell me. It just seems like a feasible solution to those unable to just bolt up and go with this awesome header. The work seems easy enough for any machinist to pull off.
Dumb?
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From: Maryland
Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Accent
QUOTE (HotBlue02 @ Oct 30 2009, 01:02 PM)
Not really sure why the end would be near the trans and make contact, were did you get that info?
If you beta swap an X3 Accent and keep the alpha manual transmission one of the tubes will interfere with the clutch slave cylinder.