I Got What You Want! Muhahaha (ape Traction Bar)
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
Vehicle: ǝdnoɔ sısǝuǝƃ
whoa kimosabi... save some of that $1600 for the projects coming up. We still have headers and other projects :up:
Will a traction bar be beneficial on an automatic? My undercarriage is the LAST thing I'm worried about. It's too well hidden and protected by all the fiberglass around it. If my undercarriage bottoms out, I've got $3500 in body kit and body work to worry about, not a little traction bar!
Will a traction bar be beneficial on an automatic? My undercarriage is the LAST thing I'm worried about. It's too well hidden and protected by all the fiberglass around it. If my undercarriage bottoms out, I've got $3500 in body kit and body work to worry about, not a little traction bar!
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> Will a traction bar be beneficial on an automatic?
It could be. I mean, unless your doing alot of skipping around on a launch, honestly, I don't think you will feel a difference. However, it does stiffen up the front end to help with body roll, so you might enjoy that benefit.
Tom said that he has put them on automatics, and basically, you can't spin your tires anymore because it doesn't allow for any give. He said even on like Garage floor surfaces that an elantra was previously able to break the tires loose on, after putting the traction bar on, could not. I have not seen it personally, so I wouldn't know.
> Clearance.
I believe currently, it would sit about as low as your body kit. It does sit slightly lower than the Cuda front bumper. As in, I look at the car from the side, eye level with it, and I can see the joint (lowest part of the bar). I need a camera... ohh! my friend is here today. Maybe I can get a picture.
Anyways, I suggested to Tom about beefing up the bracket around the joint, he thinks it's a good idea too. That way it can take a little more abuse from being hit.
It could be. I mean, unless your doing alot of skipping around on a launch, honestly, I don't think you will feel a difference. However, it does stiffen up the front end to help with body roll, so you might enjoy that benefit.
Tom said that he has put them on automatics, and basically, you can't spin your tires anymore because it doesn't allow for any give. He said even on like Garage floor surfaces that an elantra was previously able to break the tires loose on, after putting the traction bar on, could not. I have not seen it personally, so I wouldn't know.
> Clearance.
I believe currently, it would sit about as low as your body kit. It does sit slightly lower than the Cuda front bumper. As in, I look at the car from the side, eye level with it, and I can see the joint (lowest part of the bar). I need a camera... ohh! my friend is here today. Maybe I can get a picture.
Anyways, I suggested to Tom about beefing up the bracket around the joint, he thinks it's a good idea too. That way it can take a little more abuse from being hit.
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
Vehicle: ǝdnoɔ sısǝuǝƃ
there's a difference between our cars though. Yours is just about the same height as mine I'm assuming... about 2-2.5" front bumper clearance, but I have factory springs, thus my undercarriage is higher than yours.
I'm guessing the clearance issue would only be for those with lowering springs or coilovers, right? Factory height shouldn't have any problems, but the people who would be using this would most likely have their suspension lowered.
I'm guessing the clearance issue would only be for those with lowering springs or coilovers, right? Factory height shouldn't have any problems, but the people who would be using this would most likely have their suspension lowered.
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Yeah, the lowering spring are pretty much what make it ride low. With stock springs, your probably not going to notice a problem, since your kit already sits so low. But remember, Tom is working on a redesign that doesn't sit as low as the one I have on my car.
In fact I spoke to Tom today about this. He said he should have the next revision/production model done by the end of next week. I have some photos... I just need to get them from my friend. Should be posting them later.
Here's some pictures. You can see where I have been scraping.... and leave my car alone, it's a daily driver.. it looks bad under the car. haha.
We were talking about raising the ends of the bar about an inch if possible. But that's what Tom is working on.
In fact I spoke to Tom today about this. He said he should have the next revision/production model done by the end of next week. I have some photos... I just need to get them from my friend. Should be posting them later.
Here's some pictures. You can see where I have been scraping.... and leave my car alone, it's a daily driver.. it looks bad under the car. haha.
We were talking about raising the ends of the bar about an inch if possible. But that's what Tom is working on.
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there is no way i would spend the money on that thing and then drive around with it in its current design. whats the big deal with having the bracket point in the direction of the beam running front to back?
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Here are a couple more photos.
Oh, for those worried about speed bumps.... I can clear speed bumps. Where I normally tag the bar is when I am going straight through and intersection with a good size dip in it.
It might look low, but it clears more stuff than you might realise. However, I do feel it does need to come up a little also. Just to make myself feel more comfortable. Tom knows all this and he's working on it, so don't worry guys!
I'll see if I can get some more pictures at random places around town.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tibby01 @ Aug 18 2006, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>there is no way i would spend the money on that thing and then drive around with it in its current design. whats the big deal with having the bracket point in the direction of the beam running front to back?</div>
I asked Tom this question yesterday actually. I asked him, couldn't you put the bar behind the wheels and run the beams towards the front?
He said that in order for the geometry of this traction bar to work, it has to be in the front. Our suspension is to compensate for a nose dive on breaking, so if you put it in the back it would not be as effective, and the pivot point would have to change for it to even work without putting stress on the suspension when it extends and contracts. I'm sure you probably know what I mean. If you put a pivoit point with a straight bar in the wrong spot, it's actually going to change the way the suspension moves completely. That's not what he wants. The point of the traction bar is to keep the suspension in place and going straight up and down at all times.
I don't know if you know why you get the skipping on lauches, but what happens is the wheels Toe Out when alot of power is put to them. This causes them to want to Toe In again. Think of it this way, put your hands out, palms facing each other, parallel to each other. When the wheels tow out, your fingers are moving away from each other. But the wheels naturally want to stay parallel, so they snap back into the original position. The wheels do this by jumping off the ground. So when it jumps of the ground, you loose traction for a sec which allows the wheels to move back, then the process starts over again. So you get that terrible rattle and wheel hop on quick takeoffs. That's the main purpose for this bar. It elminates the wheel hop.
The added bonus of this is it's a nice solid bar your putting at the front of your frame. It strengthens the front end and helps reduce body roll. Reduced body roll, of course makes for better turns etc etc. Something that is always great.
Oh, for those worried about speed bumps.... I can clear speed bumps. Where I normally tag the bar is when I am going straight through and intersection with a good size dip in it.
It might look low, but it clears more stuff than you might realise. However, I do feel it does need to come up a little also. Just to make myself feel more comfortable. Tom knows all this and he's working on it, so don't worry guys!
I'll see if I can get some more pictures at random places around town.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tibby01 @ Aug 18 2006, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>there is no way i would spend the money on that thing and then drive around with it in its current design. whats the big deal with having the bracket point in the direction of the beam running front to back?</div>
I asked Tom this question yesterday actually. I asked him, couldn't you put the bar behind the wheels and run the beams towards the front?
He said that in order for the geometry of this traction bar to work, it has to be in the front. Our suspension is to compensate for a nose dive on breaking, so if you put it in the back it would not be as effective, and the pivot point would have to change for it to even work without putting stress on the suspension when it extends and contracts. I'm sure you probably know what I mean. If you put a pivoit point with a straight bar in the wrong spot, it's actually going to change the way the suspension moves completely. That's not what he wants. The point of the traction bar is to keep the suspension in place and going straight up and down at all times.
I don't know if you know why you get the skipping on lauches, but what happens is the wheels Toe Out when alot of power is put to them. This causes them to want to Toe In again. Think of it this way, put your hands out, palms facing each other, parallel to each other. When the wheels tow out, your fingers are moving away from each other. But the wheels naturally want to stay parallel, so they snap back into the original position. The wheels do this by jumping off the ground. So when it jumps of the ground, you loose traction for a sec which allows the wheels to move back, then the process starts over again. So you get that terrible rattle and wheel hop on quick takeoffs. That's the main purpose for this bar. It elminates the wheel hop.
The added bonus of this is it's a nice solid bar your putting at the front of your frame. It strengthens the front end and helps reduce body roll. Reduced body roll, of course makes for better turns etc etc. Something that is always great.
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
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Ah!! George went chromie on us!!
so, with that information, it WOULD be beneficial on an automatic. It would prevent the wheels from bowing, keeping them stable, and provide support for the frame when taking tight turns and reducing body roll (just as front and rear strut bars would do). Well, I've got the front and rear strut bars now, maybe I should invest in these sometime in the near future, just to strengthen my frame.
ima be d0riftin y0!
so, with that information, it WOULD be beneficial on an automatic. It would prevent the wheels from bowing, keeping them stable, and provide support for the frame when taking tight turns and reducing body roll (just as front and rear strut bars would do). Well, I've got the front and rear strut bars now, maybe I should invest in these sometime in the near future, just to strengthen my frame.
ima be d0riftin y0!
