Splitters Protect Vielside Kit From Scraping?
Yeah..I think I wont mold the kit anytime soon...since I do want CF fenders
Do you really have to take the front bumper off to install headers and exhaust???
The reason i ask is because I am doing that as soon as the car is out of the shop
Do you really have to take the front bumper off to install headers and exhaust???
The reason i ask is because I am doing that as soon as the car is out of the shop
it would make it easier... unless you've got a lift.
I can remove the front bumper in about 2 minutes, not hard at all, done it DOZENS of times.
Since you have to drop the headers down to get them out, it'd be in your best interest to take off the bumper.
I usually jack up the front of the car by the support in the center bar (NOT on the radiator OR the tow hook!) in the front of the car, using a floor jack. Make it so much easier if the bumper is off. If you want to use the scissor jack on the sides and crawl under there, be my guest. It's personal preference I guess.
I can remove the front bumper in about 2 minutes, not hard at all, done it DOZENS of times.
Since you have to drop the headers down to get them out, it'd be in your best interest to take off the bumper.
I usually jack up the front of the car by the support in the center bar (NOT on the radiator OR the tow hook!) in the front of the car, using a floor jack. Make it so much easier if the bumper is off. If you want to use the scissor jack on the sides and crawl under there, be my guest. It's personal preference I guess.
no, but if you have never taken off the front bumper, I'd do it just so you know how. If you ever become stranded on the side of the road, you'll need to take it off if you want to get towed (flat bed tow trucks only!). It's good to be able to do it, so I'd do it just to have practice.
It's usually one bolt in each fender, one behind the turn signals and the ones going across the top. Not too hard.
It's usually one bolt in each fender, one behind the turn signals and the ones going across the top. Not too hard.
yes, that would help strengthen the kit. Some people have gone as far as to put spray-in bedliner on the back of the kit, but that may cause problems if it ever cracks and you want to repair it (you would have to chisel off the bedliner). Some say causing it to be so stiff is a problem; allowing a little flexibility will prevent it from cracking and stiffness would make it prone to cracking against any pressure.
Simple scraping won't break the kit or crack it... hitting something hard, nose diving into concrete or hitting railroad tracks with the nose would probably be the thing to do it.
Simple scraping won't break the kit or crack it... hitting something hard, nose diving into concrete or hitting railroad tracks with the nose would probably be the thing to do it.
well, since fiberglass doesn't really have much flexibility as it is (some, but very little), I would say strength. For those who get fake kits, if you can see the light showing through the thin parts of the kit, that means it's way too thin and needs to be reinforced.
Since we're most likely dealing mostly with people who have fake veilside kits, I would suggest reinforcing them with extra fiberglass.
Since we're most likely dealing mostly with people who have fake veilside kits, I would suggest reinforcing them with extra fiberglass.




