How to clean your car before a car show!
02-27-2009, 07:03 PM
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
How to clean your car before a car show!
I figured I'll go on through my list on how I clean my car and get it ready for shows, then you guys can chime in and tell me what you use. This way we can all learn something. I cannot afford to pay people to detail my car before every show, so I've learned a few tricks and formed my own oppinions. I would like to get some of your opinions and tricks too.
Remove all the old wax and buildups.
I start by spraying off the car with a hose, then washing it using a bucket with dawn dish soap and warm water. Never agitate the bucket, this kicks up the dirt from the bottom. Instead, just dip your sponge into the top of the bucket, then wring it out a few times. Wash the car in the general direction in which the wind will hit it. This means go from front to back and back to front. Try to picture your hand going back and forth in the same lines the wind would hit your car at 60 MPH on the high way. This way you put less lines non-natural lines on your car. It prevents dirt from scratching the paint in new directions. Different directions of scratches look bad. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done.
When you dry the car, use only a clean microfiber towel. Rub the towel in the direction the wind will flow. It's impossible to do in some spots, but try to do it as much as you can, because drying is the part where the most dirt will be ground into your paint with no water to act as lubricant.
The very next thing you should do after removing the wax with dish soap is put on more wax, unless you're going to clay bar, polish, use swirl remover or any other on-paint product. It's not a good idea to leave the paint exposed for very long because it starts oxidizing the minute water leaves the surface. It's also not a good idea to try to use touch-up paint on top of wax.
Oxidation removal:
Only use this stuff if your paint is starting to look crumbly or the clear coat is falling off. If you're using this, it's because you really need a paint job, but you can't afford it. This will bring back a faded paint job and at least make it shiny. You spread it on with a rag, rub it into the paint in a circular motion, then rub it off with another towel.
Alternately, if you've just painted a surface, after 3 days, use this stuff. It will remove eggshell and leave a smooth surface.
Clay bar:
After dish soap, I use clay bar. I do not really have a brand of clay bar to recommend. I've only used Mothers Clay Bar kit. One thing I was sure of though, I threw away the carnuba wax which came with it so that I could use my own wax which I prefer. They provide that to remind you to wax your car immediately. You only need about 1/4 of the bar, save the rest for later. You use clay bar as though it were an eraser for small bits of dirt on your paint. You can feel it actually grabbing stuff off the paint, it feels like you hit a rough spot all the sudden. Keep the surface lightly oiled with the instant detailer they provide you, and fold the clay in half every once in a while to expose a new side to make sure you're not putting new scratches in the paint. Just move it across the car back and forth in the same direction which the wind would travel. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done.
Touch-up and color sanding:
At this point, I use my Hyundai Cobalt Blue touch up paint pen. I clean the area really well with a little bit of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then I push against a piece of paper until the paint flows, then touch it to the car wherever I want to have more paint. I then wait 5-10 minutes and do the same with the clear coat side. I love these Hyundai paint pens. They kick butt.
To flatten the area after using touch-up paint, you can use some 1500 grit sand paper and water to wet sand the area, spray off the area, then clean off the sanding scratches very lightly with rubbing compound. It takes a few hours before the clear coat is dry enough to do this. Try to keep the sanding and rubbing to a minimal area as it will damage surrounding paint.
To color sand, just touch a bit of paint to the area wait 15 minutes, then use some 1500-2000 grit sand paper and water, spray off the area, then use rubbing compound to clean up the sanding marks.
*note- professional help is advised with color-sanding or touchup
Polishing:
Sometimes it's needed, sometimes it's not. I do not feel comfortable using any abrasive polishes on my paint on a regular basis. I may use one every few years. When I do, it's only because the paint has either dulled or there is some minor scratches in the paint. I use Turtle wax polishing compound. It will remove scratches, and also leave your car shiny as heck. It can damage paint lightly though. Use it sparingly. You put it on with a rag in a circular patter, then buff it off in a circular patter, preferably with a microfiber towel. You may permanently stain your microfiber towel during this.
Prepairing for wax:
Before you wax the car, you want to make sure the surface is ready. Walk around the car and use scratchx as needed. it will remove swirls, fill in scratches and generally leave the paint looking better then before. It's great for spot corrections before you wax. Just spread it on with a paper towel, and rub it in a circle, then wait for it to haze up and rub it off in small circles.
Waxing:
After removing all your old wax, you need to put on a good base coat of wax.
For starters, at the beginning of winter I use some Turtle wax F21 nothing else. This stuff is advertised to last 1 year. I only use it for 6 months during winter time so that I don't have to worry about my paint as much because the paint won't stay as nice in the winter time as it does in the summer. You put it on with a rag and buff it off with a clean microfiber towel. It will take a lot of work to get it to shine, but do it, because once you're done, the shine lasts a LONG time.
It takes alot to get this stuff off of your paint. So when it comes time to remove it, go an extra time or two with the dawn dish soap.
For summer time I like to start off with a good THICK paste wax. I like Meguire's Tech Wax paste. There's a lot of different paste waxes out there. I like this stuff. The car looks good with just the wax on it. You put it on with the provided applicator, rub it around in a circular pattern one panel at a time, then buff it off with a microfiber towel. It will leave your car shiny as heck. Use it repeatedly to build up a wax layer to protect your paint, but wait about 30 minutes between applications. I'd use it twice, maybe 3 times, but I do it by hand so I cannot repeat this all day long. On the last application make sure the way your towel goes is with the direction of the wind for uniformity purposes. This will make sure the lines in the wax left by the microfiber towel are traveling the same direction. When your towel goes over wax it will polarize it. You will notice it when you look at the sun gleaming off of your car.
Removing the white oxidation from window trim:
Window trim turns white naturally while driving. In order to keep it black, I like to use silicone lube. Silicone lube will remove oxidation and leave a protective coating on plastics and rubber. It's some good stuff and it does not leave a nasty buildup Don't get it on the paint because it will also remove the wax. If you get it on the paint, you can generally just rub it in and be fine, but you may end up touching up the wax along the edges.
After car wash waxing:
Now for the layer of wax we want to build and loose every time we go to the car wash.
I like to use meguires spray wax. It goes on easily. It rubs to a shine easily. It makes a very nice shine over the top of the wax. It seals in the paste wax and makes it last longer. It makes washing easier. Put this stuff on right after you use paste wax and every time you visit the car wash.
You just spray it on the car and then rub it in until it looks shiny. Follow the direction of wind flow. That simple.
Weekly washing:
I go to a car wash. I don't have resources to bring out a hose every time. NEVER USE A BUBBLE BRUSH except for your wheel wells. Never use the prewash as it will remove your wax. Never use car wash wax. Personally, I never use the 3 colors of foam because I have no clue what is in that stuff. Just bring your car into a non-leaking bay, use tire cleaner on your tires and wheel wells, use soap on the outside of the car, rinse, then spot-free rinse, then pull the car out and dry it off with a microfiber towel in the direction of wind flow.
When cleaning the rims, use a wheel brush to aid the cleaner in doing it's job. It will make sure your rims are clean.
Daily cleaning:
Spray some speed detailer on the car and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. I like meguires speed detailer.
Before a car show:
Ice is a great product line, but its effects do not last. It's an oil that goes on top of your paint. It collects dust though so be careful. Right after a car wash and speed detailer, I'll use some of this on-site at a car show. You just put it on with the provided applicator and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. It does not last after one wash. It will come right off. You must use ICE speed detailer to keep it clean. ICE looks great right after use, but does not last for a week nor does it last a trip through the car wash. After using ICE you should apply some meguires speed detailer to remove it and then spray wax.
If you are trying to maintain your ICE shine, then use ICE speed detailer as you would meguires speed detailer. Spray it on, wipe it off in the direction of wind flow.
Headlights, corner lights, tail lights:
I use plast-x. It removes dings from the surface as well as restores clarity. You just put some on, wait for it to glaze over, then rub it off and polish to a nice shine. Some people have said using 0000 steel wool first removes oxidation and prepares the surface for a nice shine. I've never done this, so I cannot comment on it.
Remove all the old wax and buildups.
I start by spraying off the car with a hose, then washing it using a bucket with dawn dish soap and warm water. Never agitate the bucket, this kicks up the dirt from the bottom. Instead, just dip your sponge into the top of the bucket, then wring it out a few times. Wash the car in the general direction in which the wind will hit it. This means go from front to back and back to front. Try to picture your hand going back and forth in the same lines the wind would hit your car at 60 MPH on the high way. This way you put less lines non-natural lines on your car. It prevents dirt from scratching the paint in new directions. Different directions of scratches look bad. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done.
When you dry the car, use only a clean microfiber towel. Rub the towel in the direction the wind will flow. It's impossible to do in some spots, but try to do it as much as you can, because drying is the part where the most dirt will be ground into your paint with no water to act as lubricant.
The very next thing you should do after removing the wax with dish soap is put on more wax, unless you're going to clay bar, polish, use swirl remover or any other on-paint product. It's not a good idea to leave the paint exposed for very long because it starts oxidizing the minute water leaves the surface. It's also not a good idea to try to use touch-up paint on top of wax.
Oxidation removal:
Only use this stuff if your paint is starting to look crumbly or the clear coat is falling off. If you're using this, it's because you really need a paint job, but you can't afford it. This will bring back a faded paint job and at least make it shiny. You spread it on with a rag, rub it into the paint in a circular motion, then rub it off with another towel.
Alternately, if you've just painted a surface, after 3 days, use this stuff. It will remove eggshell and leave a smooth surface.
Clay bar:
After dish soap, I use clay bar. I do not really have a brand of clay bar to recommend. I've only used Mothers Clay Bar kit. One thing I was sure of though, I threw away the carnuba wax which came with it so that I could use my own wax which I prefer. They provide that to remind you to wax your car immediately. You only need about 1/4 of the bar, save the rest for later. You use clay bar as though it were an eraser for small bits of dirt on your paint. You can feel it actually grabbing stuff off the paint, it feels like you hit a rough spot all the sudden. Keep the surface lightly oiled with the instant detailer they provide you, and fold the clay in half every once in a while to expose a new side to make sure you're not putting new scratches in the paint. Just move it across the car back and forth in the same direction which the wind would travel. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done.
Touch-up and color sanding:
At this point, I use my Hyundai Cobalt Blue touch up paint pen. I clean the area really well with a little bit of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then I push against a piece of paper until the paint flows, then touch it to the car wherever I want to have more paint. I then wait 5-10 minutes and do the same with the clear coat side. I love these Hyundai paint pens. They kick butt.
To flatten the area after using touch-up paint, you can use some 1500 grit sand paper and water to wet sand the area, spray off the area, then clean off the sanding scratches very lightly with rubbing compound. It takes a few hours before the clear coat is dry enough to do this. Try to keep the sanding and rubbing to a minimal area as it will damage surrounding paint.
To color sand, just touch a bit of paint to the area wait 15 minutes, then use some 1500-2000 grit sand paper and water, spray off the area, then use rubbing compound to clean up the sanding marks.
*note- professional help is advised with color-sanding or touchup
Polishing:
Sometimes it's needed, sometimes it's not. I do not feel comfortable using any abrasive polishes on my paint on a regular basis. I may use one every few years. When I do, it's only because the paint has either dulled or there is some minor scratches in the paint. I use Turtle wax polishing compound. It will remove scratches, and also leave your car shiny as heck. It can damage paint lightly though. Use it sparingly. You put it on with a rag in a circular patter, then buff it off in a circular patter, preferably with a microfiber towel. You may permanently stain your microfiber towel during this.
Prepairing for wax:
Before you wax the car, you want to make sure the surface is ready. Walk around the car and use scratchx as needed. it will remove swirls, fill in scratches and generally leave the paint looking better then before. It's great for spot corrections before you wax. Just spread it on with a paper towel, and rub it in a circle, then wait for it to haze up and rub it off in small circles.
Waxing:
After removing all your old wax, you need to put on a good base coat of wax.
For starters, at the beginning of winter I use some Turtle wax F21 nothing else. This stuff is advertised to last 1 year. I only use it for 6 months during winter time so that I don't have to worry about my paint as much because the paint won't stay as nice in the winter time as it does in the summer. You put it on with a rag and buff it off with a clean microfiber towel. It will take a lot of work to get it to shine, but do it, because once you're done, the shine lasts a LONG time.
It takes alot to get this stuff off of your paint. So when it comes time to remove it, go an extra time or two with the dawn dish soap.
For summer time I like to start off with a good THICK paste wax. I like Meguire's Tech Wax paste. There's a lot of different paste waxes out there. I like this stuff. The car looks good with just the wax on it. You put it on with the provided applicator, rub it around in a circular pattern one panel at a time, then buff it off with a microfiber towel. It will leave your car shiny as heck. Use it repeatedly to build up a wax layer to protect your paint, but wait about 30 minutes between applications. I'd use it twice, maybe 3 times, but I do it by hand so I cannot repeat this all day long. On the last application make sure the way your towel goes is with the direction of the wind for uniformity purposes. This will make sure the lines in the wax left by the microfiber towel are traveling the same direction. When your towel goes over wax it will polarize it. You will notice it when you look at the sun gleaming off of your car.
Removing the white oxidation from window trim:
Window trim turns white naturally while driving. In order to keep it black, I like to use silicone lube. Silicone lube will remove oxidation and leave a protective coating on plastics and rubber. It's some good stuff and it does not leave a nasty buildup Don't get it on the paint because it will also remove the wax. If you get it on the paint, you can generally just rub it in and be fine, but you may end up touching up the wax along the edges.
After car wash waxing:
Now for the layer of wax we want to build and loose every time we go to the car wash.
I like to use meguires spray wax. It goes on easily. It rubs to a shine easily. It makes a very nice shine over the top of the wax. It seals in the paste wax and makes it last longer. It makes washing easier. Put this stuff on right after you use paste wax and every time you visit the car wash.
You just spray it on the car and then rub it in until it looks shiny. Follow the direction of wind flow. That simple.
Weekly washing:
I go to a car wash. I don't have resources to bring out a hose every time. NEVER USE A BUBBLE BRUSH except for your wheel wells. Never use the prewash as it will remove your wax. Never use car wash wax. Personally, I never use the 3 colors of foam because I have no clue what is in that stuff. Just bring your car into a non-leaking bay, use tire cleaner on your tires and wheel wells, use soap on the outside of the car, rinse, then spot-free rinse, then pull the car out and dry it off with a microfiber towel in the direction of wind flow.
When cleaning the rims, use a wheel brush to aid the cleaner in doing it's job. It will make sure your rims are clean.
Daily cleaning:
Spray some speed detailer on the car and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. I like meguires speed detailer.
Before a car show:
Ice is a great product line, but its effects do not last. It's an oil that goes on top of your paint. It collects dust though so be careful. Right after a car wash and speed detailer, I'll use some of this on-site at a car show. You just put it on with the provided applicator and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. It does not last after one wash. It will come right off. You must use ICE speed detailer to keep it clean. ICE looks great right after use, but does not last for a week nor does it last a trip through the car wash. After using ICE you should apply some meguires speed detailer to remove it and then spray wax.
If you are trying to maintain your ICE shine, then use ICE speed detailer as you would meguires speed detailer. Spray it on, wipe it off in the direction of wind flow.
Headlights, corner lights, tail lights:
I use plast-x. It removes dings from the surface as well as restores clarity. You just put some on, wait for it to glaze over, then rub it off and polish to a nice shine. Some people have said using 0000 steel wool first removes oxidation and prepares the surface for a nice shine. I've never done this, so I cannot comment on it.
02-27-2009, 07:04 PM
#2
Moderator
Thread Starter
Interior cleaning:
Generally, I use 409 on all surfaces. I use Windex on all glass. I also use LOTS of paper towels. Then before a show I'll use armor-all protectant to get the shine out of the pleather on the dashboard and steering wheel. Armor-all collects dust, so I don't use it all the time.
If you see a loose thread, cut off as much as you can, then use a lighter to melt it. The last little bit of it will melt, then you mash it with your finger.
If there's an area looking somewhat frayed, you can use a razor to remove fuzz from a surface.
If there's discoloration on a black surface, you can use a magic marker to color it back in.
vacuuming:
I put the vacuum in my right hand and a brush in my left. I'll scrub everything before I vacuum it up. It helps to agitate dirt out of the carpet and seat fibers. Trust me on the brush. It's the best way to get things clean.
Shampoo cleaning:
You can rent a shampoo cleaner for about $50 a day. Or, you can use some carpet shampoo and a wet/dry shop vac with a brush. Either way, you'll end up with clean carpets. I get a bucket full of hot water, then add some carpet shampoo. I'll splatter some on the area to be cleaned, agitate it in, then suck it back out while agitating. Don't sit on your seats while the shampoo is drying or you'll mush the fibers down and it will make the seats look old and the carpet too wherever your feet touch. Make sure you vacuum before you shampoo because if you shampoo first, it makes mud which will stay in your carpet and not come up.
All painted surfaces:
After cleaning, you can use some spray tech wax to bring out the gloss. Interior is not as important as exterior because it's not subjected to the weather.
Engine bay:
For a good starting point, if you have no painted surfaces, you can use an engine degreaser of your choice at your favorite auto-parts store. Otherwise you'll be like me, cleaning everything by hand. Engine cleaners come in a tall arisol can.
I use silicone lube, 409 and simple green for general cleaning of my engine bay. Some do not like silicone lube. I swear by it. It leaves everything shiny and clean. I spray it on a surface which needs to be cleaned, then I'll wipe it off. It works well. use it on metal, hoses, plastic, anything which needs to be cleaned. Use a big nylon brush to get large areas like the front of the engine or the MAF sensor. Use a toothbrush to get into hard to reach nooks like the grooves on the front of the engine or the corners of the MAF sensor. Be thorough. Engine bay cleaning is a topic of it's own. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20998
A note on silicone lube, Don't just spray it on everything. Most silicone lubricants contain an acid chemical which eats away corrosion and loosens dirt before they become just silicone. Sometimes it takes a minute for the chemical to evaporate, so depending on the situation use it immediately, or spray it on your rag and then wait before using it on paint or a surface which is questionable. Basically, test in an inconspicuous location.
Chrome:
A lot of chrome polishes are out there. I like Nevr-Dull. It's a good product and I'm familiar with it because of my military experience. We use nevr-dull to polish our brass on our uniforms. It works good. The product itself is it's own applicator. It's a bunch of cotton which you just rip off and start rubbing on your chrome. Once you rub it on, you rub it back off with a paper towel, or if you decided you want to throw away your microfiber towel, use that. Either way, this stuff works and will leave your chrome shiny.
Painted surfaces:
For high temp paint, you can use rubbing compound and polishing compound to make them shine. I wouldn't try waxing.
Hoses:
Use silicone lube and a rag to clean any oxidation from the surface. The silicone lube will then act as a protectant to keep them black.
At a car show I'll wipe down the hoses with armor-all. It leaves them surprisingly shiny. It collects dust though.
Aluminum:
Any bare aluminum can benefeit from 0-0000 steel wool. The intake manifold will clean pretty well with just silicone lube, but to make it shine I've found some 0 grit steel wool removes some of the bumps from the manifold, then 00 removes some of the gouges from the 0 grit steel wool and 0000 grit steel wool will polish the aluminum to a high shine. You can follow steel woll up with some Nevr-Dull metal cleaner.
The thing about steel woll is that it removes such a small ammount of metal that you won't see it working, but it's noticable if you take a before and after pic. It takes alot of elbow grease to make an improvement.
Wheels:
rims:
There's a few safe for all wheels products out there which are all equally as good. Every rim is different. There's tons of different products out there meant for different surfaces. Check the labeling and check with the manufacturer. You need something which will leave them looking good and remove all the brake dust and buildups. I have not found any spray on/spray off soloution which does not work well, or benefeit from additional scrubbing.
Tires and wheel well:
I like armor-all extreme tire shine. It works well to remove dirt and dust. It also works very well on the wheel wells. One thing to pay attention to though. Do not get this on pavement. It will leave a quarter moon shape there for a year. Set a rag on the ground by the tire before you spray it to make sure you don't mess up the pavement. Spray this up in your wheel wells and all over the sidewalls of the tire. This product collects dust.
If you're at a car show, use a brush to remove all of the rocks, dust, and dirt from the tread of your tires, then spray this onto the tread for that clean as the day the tires were bought look. People will ask if you ever drive the car and be amazed when you say every day.
All of these products can be obtained at Advanced Auto Parts, AutoZone, Walmart, and NAPA. You may have to do some searching, but they are there.
On a side note, for car shows, I never use any product which collects dust until I get to the show and my car has stopped moving.
These are the products which I use. Most of them, I carry around in my car in a water-proof bag in my trunk daily.
Generally, I use 409 on all surfaces. I use Windex on all glass. I also use LOTS of paper towels. Then before a show I'll use armor-all protectant to get the shine out of the pleather on the dashboard and steering wheel. Armor-all collects dust, so I don't use it all the time.
If you see a loose thread, cut off as much as you can, then use a lighter to melt it. The last little bit of it will melt, then you mash it with your finger.
If there's an area looking somewhat frayed, you can use a razor to remove fuzz from a surface.
If there's discoloration on a black surface, you can use a magic marker to color it back in.
vacuuming:
I put the vacuum in my right hand and a brush in my left. I'll scrub everything before I vacuum it up. It helps to agitate dirt out of the carpet and seat fibers. Trust me on the brush. It's the best way to get things clean.
Shampoo cleaning:
You can rent a shampoo cleaner for about $50 a day. Or, you can use some carpet shampoo and a wet/dry shop vac with a brush. Either way, you'll end up with clean carpets. I get a bucket full of hot water, then add some carpet shampoo. I'll splatter some on the area to be cleaned, agitate it in, then suck it back out while agitating. Don't sit on your seats while the shampoo is drying or you'll mush the fibers down and it will make the seats look old and the carpet too wherever your feet touch. Make sure you vacuum before you shampoo because if you shampoo first, it makes mud which will stay in your carpet and not come up.
All painted surfaces:
After cleaning, you can use some spray tech wax to bring out the gloss. Interior is not as important as exterior because it's not subjected to the weather.
Engine bay:
For a good starting point, if you have no painted surfaces, you can use an engine degreaser of your choice at your favorite auto-parts store. Otherwise you'll be like me, cleaning everything by hand. Engine cleaners come in a tall arisol can.
I use silicone lube, 409 and simple green for general cleaning of my engine bay. Some do not like silicone lube. I swear by it. It leaves everything shiny and clean. I spray it on a surface which needs to be cleaned, then I'll wipe it off. It works well. use it on metal, hoses, plastic, anything which needs to be cleaned. Use a big nylon brush to get large areas like the front of the engine or the MAF sensor. Use a toothbrush to get into hard to reach nooks like the grooves on the front of the engine or the corners of the MAF sensor. Be thorough. Engine bay cleaning is a topic of it's own. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20998
A note on silicone lube, Don't just spray it on everything. Most silicone lubricants contain an acid chemical which eats away corrosion and loosens dirt before they become just silicone. Sometimes it takes a minute for the chemical to evaporate, so depending on the situation use it immediately, or spray it on your rag and then wait before using it on paint or a surface which is questionable. Basically, test in an inconspicuous location.
Chrome:
A lot of chrome polishes are out there. I like Nevr-Dull. It's a good product and I'm familiar with it because of my military experience. We use nevr-dull to polish our brass on our uniforms. It works good. The product itself is it's own applicator. It's a bunch of cotton which you just rip off and start rubbing on your chrome. Once you rub it on, you rub it back off with a paper towel, or if you decided you want to throw away your microfiber towel, use that. Either way, this stuff works and will leave your chrome shiny.
Painted surfaces:
For high temp paint, you can use rubbing compound and polishing compound to make them shine. I wouldn't try waxing.
Hoses:
Use silicone lube and a rag to clean any oxidation from the surface. The silicone lube will then act as a protectant to keep them black.
At a car show I'll wipe down the hoses with armor-all. It leaves them surprisingly shiny. It collects dust though.
Aluminum:
Any bare aluminum can benefeit from 0-0000 steel wool. The intake manifold will clean pretty well with just silicone lube, but to make it shine I've found some 0 grit steel wool removes some of the bumps from the manifold, then 00 removes some of the gouges from the 0 grit steel wool and 0000 grit steel wool will polish the aluminum to a high shine. You can follow steel woll up with some Nevr-Dull metal cleaner.
The thing about steel woll is that it removes such a small ammount of metal that you won't see it working, but it's noticable if you take a before and after pic. It takes alot of elbow grease to make an improvement.
Wheels:
rims:
There's a few safe for all wheels products out there which are all equally as good. Every rim is different. There's tons of different products out there meant for different surfaces. Check the labeling and check with the manufacturer. You need something which will leave them looking good and remove all the brake dust and buildups. I have not found any spray on/spray off soloution which does not work well, or benefeit from additional scrubbing.
Tires and wheel well:
I like armor-all extreme tire shine. It works well to remove dirt and dust. It also works very well on the wheel wells. One thing to pay attention to though. Do not get this on pavement. It will leave a quarter moon shape there for a year. Set a rag on the ground by the tire before you spray it to make sure you don't mess up the pavement. Spray this up in your wheel wells and all over the sidewalls of the tire. This product collects dust.
If you're at a car show, use a brush to remove all of the rocks, dust, and dirt from the tread of your tires, then spray this onto the tread for that clean as the day the tires were bought look. People will ask if you ever drive the car and be amazed when you say every day.
All of these products can be obtained at Advanced Auto Parts, AutoZone, Walmart, and NAPA. You may have to do some searching, but they are there.
On a side note, for car shows, I never use any product which collects dust until I get to the show and my car has stopped moving.
These are the products which I use. Most of them, I carry around in my car in a water-proof bag in my trunk daily.
02-27-2009, 08:48 PM
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That's a sweet write up man! I don't like the Armor all wipes though, I prefer the spray bottle. Also, Black Magic tire wet is my preferred spray, but very nice detailed write up. now if I could only find the time to use all that stuff, lol.
01-09-2012, 01:44 PM
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Quite a write-up, good stuff. Don't know if you're around still DTN, but the pictures don't work anymore.
01-09-2012, 02:00 PM
#8
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^ He's quite the legend on the Android cracking hacking fiddling and just plain frankensteining community. His photobucket probably exceeds bandwidth within minutes of it being reset.
I've found that if you type the URLs of the images directly into the browser, they'll load.
I've found that if you type the URLs of the images directly into the browser, they'll load.