DTN

I'm looking for a clutch. I've been through 4 because of problems with installation and a bad flywheel. I've got a new flywheel en-route.

The stock clutch can be had for less then $100 online. Stock replacements work alright and I've tried the SECO. The stock flywheel can be obtained for about $100. So a full stock replacement can be done for $200 in parts.

I know ACT is the way to go if you have the cash. I do not have $350 for a clutch with no pressure plate or throw out bearing. The PP+bearing is about $100. So that's about $550 in parts total.

Currently I'm looking at the XTR Stage 3 clutch. It seems like a good option and it is a 6 puc ceramic friction surface clutch with a full steel base. It is a complete clutch kit and costs less then $200. It looks to be a good quality 6 puc, with a stock painted pressure plate. This will bring the total cost of my clutch/flywheel parts to about $400 or about double the price of stock parts.

I have not been able to find out anything about the XTR for the Tiburon. Is this the same company as XTD? There's no real info out there. Does anyone know anything about XTR?

I'm open to opinions/facts/gripes or any other info here.

SOCKS_old

just like to ask how you think it LOOKS like a good quality disc?

basically this XTR, XTD, ricerrific, ebay, etc. clutch is a complete stock kit with some cheap chinese disc.

ACT makes complete clutch kits.. my 6 puc with a HD PP was 398$ shipped to my door.. came with everything i needed.

their street clutch that has organic disk is like 350$ shipped to your door. i sure would rather spend 350$ on a good clutch that will hold more power than stock, then a stock system with a cheap ass disc for 200$.

XTR is probably same thing is F1, XTD, and any other ebay kit out there.. just cuz its labelled as XTR means nothing. the distributors just make up names for their kits.

Role Reversal

No no no socks, you have it all wrong! They way this should be handled is, do it wrong three or four times until you have spent more than you would have by just doing it the right way in the first place. nana.gif


So what if it's 350 for a good setup. If you do it with crap enough times you will wind up spending more. So just fork over the money for a good kit and bee happy with the results.

Ericy321

I say just do it right for the little bit of extra money. With trying all these new clutches that are more affordable you have spent far past what a good one would have cost to start with. Get the new flywheel and a good ACT clutch and be done messing with the trans.

DTN

i'm sorry. There is no way in hell that I'm spending $400 on a clutch, when the stock one has only lasted me at most 30,000 miles. No way, no how! If I spend 4x the price of a stock clutch, it better last 4x as long. That's all I really care about. So, there's no flippin' way I'm forking out that much money for something that's slightly better. It seems that everyone who has bought a performance clutch has replaced them within 40,000 miles or destroyed/sold the car.

Role Reversal

Well what are you b****ing about then? if you dont wana spend the money to do it right, then dont b****!

DTN

I'm not b****ing. I put in a blurb at the top of this post that I know that the ACT is the way to go for a performance clutch. It's also the 2nd most expensive clutch out there. I also said in the first post that I'm not paying for it. It doesn't make any sence to me to fork out that much cash for something that is slightly better then stock. I'm looking to pay double the price of stock and get my money's worth, not 3x and get 1.2x my money's worth.

I got a chromoly flywheel for about $200. I feel that's a good buy as it will save synchros with the 6lb weight reduction and increase throttle response.

A clutch will grip, or it won't. It's a matter of how long it grips for. I can replace a clutch in about 7 hours. I need a clutch that will last and not warp. The puc based clutches seem to be a good non-warping clutch.

My Seco clutch is going strong at 20,000 miles. It grips great. I've got no complaints about the stock replacement with copper threads. It's a good clutch. It's not worn out. I'm replacing it because I'm replacing my flywheel.

Ericy321

Just leave it in then. With nitrous and the extra power I wouldnt trust a stock clutch to hold up very long at all. When you spray youre at, what, a little over 200 or so? To much for a stock or stock replacement clutch IMO.

DTN

That's why I'm considering the XTR stage 2 or stage 3 clutch. It looks like a good deal for a 6 puc. I wish someone had some info on it though.

My Seco slipped once durring brake in period while spraying on the way down an on-ramp and shifting from 1st to 2nd. It didn't grip 2nd, scared the shit out of me. There was absoloutely no grip at all, I think it sprayed new clutch powder all over the friction surfaces. I took it easy on the clutch for the rest of the brake in period and it grips just fine now with nitrous. I do believe I'd like something that is designed for higher power though, not because I think it would happen again, but because I know the stock clutch or replacement is not designed for increased power and something might happen. Also, a puc clutch would increase airflow and cooling which means the flywheel should last longer.

I'm just worred about horror stories of people who have had their clutches shatter. From what I gather, instalation errors have a major impact on clutches shattering.

I just sent a message to the seller requesting the following information. How long has this company been around? Is there any affiliation with F1 or XTD? Is the pressure plate the same as a stock one which has been painted? Have there been any reports of exploding clutches or failures? What is the company's warranty policy?

Hopefully I receive a response with honest information in a timely manner.

SOCKS_old

just buy the POS and don't bother listening to anyone..

your not gonna listen anyway, just go out and buy the POS clutch cuz its 200$ instead of 350-400$...

your not gonna get any reliable answers... your gonna get ignorant answers from some pawn at the 'company' that has a 90% chance of being dis-honest anyway..

A) they wouldn't tell you if they used to be F1 or XTD.

B) of course they wont admit its stock PP

C) if they had any failures, why the hell would they let a potential customer know?

D) all these companies offer crazy warranties, and then wont offer them, cuz they will say some BS about not having it professionally installed by approved shop, you mis-treated it, didn't break it in, etc.

stage II or stage III NUKKKAAA!!!!!

stock PP which is included in the kit is only gonna hold the same pressure as stock.. so why even think about buying it..

stop being a cheapass, spend 150$ more and get a much better clutch...