Transmission Swap List
#11
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Thanks Jmans! Wiring is the part that I'm fearing the most lol. But I'm sure following Stockers and your threads it shouldn't be TOO bad.
Now for the mounts I just got the top mount from a RD. I heard that was the only one you need to swap. But you said a set, so..... am I missing something?
I didn't go get the trans today but good thing I didn't since I wouldn't have looked for that metal arm. I'm a trans n00b so is there anything else I should check for?
I was already planning on following your way of installing the shifter base. From the beginning I was planning to remove the seats and steering wheel. No other way I would do this swap lol.
I'll keep the axle stuff in mind when we get there, if it's easier for us to work w/o them there then they are coming out lol.
Thanks again for the input!
Now for the mounts I just got the top mount from a RD. I heard that was the only one you need to swap. But you said a set, so..... am I missing something?
I didn't go get the trans today but good thing I didn't since I wouldn't have looked for that metal arm. I'm a trans n00b so is there anything else I should check for?
I was already planning on following your way of installing the shifter base. From the beginning I was planning to remove the seats and steering wheel. No other way I would do this swap lol.
I'll keep the axle stuff in mind when we get there, if it's easier for us to work w/o them there then they are coming out lol.
Thanks again for the input!
#12
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I've spent hours upside down in the driver's seat, with my head in the floorboard. It ain't easy, and it ain't fun. Removing the steering wheel will make it 100x easier.
jmans - you have a lot of good insight to give. I wish you're hang around here more often.
jmans - you have a lot of good insight to give. I wish you're hang around here more often.
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QUOTE (majikTib @ Nov 6 2009, 10:33 AM)
jmans - you have a lot of good insight to give. I wish you're hang around here more often.
Agreed. And I like seeing the creepy teddy bear in your avatar pop in from time to time..
G'luck w/ the swap Bommello
#15
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Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
Be careful guys, you keep stroking my ego and you're gonna have to give it a happy ending. I will be around more often in the near future.
I removed my axles because I was pulling the entire motor and tranny, and replacing them. Personally, I think that anything that gives you more space to work is a plus, it's part of that "high road" mentality. YMMV.
Another very important thing you need to do is to get yourself two essential items:
1: A single black sharpie. Medium point is preferred but any will do.
2: One box of small sandwich baggies
No, seriously. You're going to start pulling things out, and you'll be thinking to yourself "I know exactly where this goes back to, I'll just set it over here for now..." And it'll be fine. But time will pass, hours will (probably) turn into a few days worth of work, and when the time comes for everything to go back in you'll be sitting here wondering where the hell all of these nuts and bolts go.
Bag and label everything! This will save you hours and hours of cursing, wailing, and gnashing of teeth. There's nothing worse than ending a job with orphaned bolts in your hand. It will drive you insane any other way. Also, take yourself some reference photos of all the wiring connectors. It'll help you figure out which connectors you don't need any more.
As for motor mounts, I failed to specify exactly what you needed. It's the beta 1 manual transmission motor mount brackets, not the mounts themselves. Brackets. You're going to end up with a set of beta 1 auto transmission brackets (which won't bolt up to the tranny) and a set of beta 2 manual transmission brackets (which don't fit the motor mounts). You need the third option.
As for wiring, I'll try and lay it out pretty simply for a second to make sure we've got the ideas down pat.
1. Wiring the reverse lamp switch. Solder the lines from your current harness to the new reverse lamp switch on your manual. Only two wires, doesn't matter which one you connect to which from what I remember.
2. Wiring the neutral sensor safety switch. Wires 7 and 8 of the Transaxle Range Control switch, look up the diagram on HMAservice, or check the threads, wire these to your sensor on your clutch pedal. Again, only two wires, doesn't matter what order they're in.
3. Modifying the ECU (daunting, but easy). Cut pin 72. Measure twice, cut once, or even measure three times, just be sure you cut the right wire. Let's not make this any harder than it has to be. Also, wire pin 86 to a constant power supply, in this case they use the keyshift lock harness plug, so you're getting constant power whenever the key is set to on, this has to happen if you don't want to get a CEL. And especially since you don't want to have to do this over again, solder the connections. You don't want to have to tear everything apart one day because your quick-splice came undone.
See, the wiring's not nearly as bad as they make it out to be. I hate wiring and this job was easy compared to the stuff I had to do to my mustang.
You've got a great team of people on this forum who are definitely setting you up for success on this job.
When in doubt, remember this: Everything you're trying to do has been done before. It's possible, it's achievable, and you've got a lot of help at your fingertips. Just say the word and I'll do everything I can for you just short of driving out and helping you in person.
You're gonna do great.
I removed my axles because I was pulling the entire motor and tranny, and replacing them. Personally, I think that anything that gives you more space to work is a plus, it's part of that "high road" mentality. YMMV.
Another very important thing you need to do is to get yourself two essential items:
1: A single black sharpie. Medium point is preferred but any will do.
2: One box of small sandwich baggies
No, seriously. You're going to start pulling things out, and you'll be thinking to yourself "I know exactly where this goes back to, I'll just set it over here for now..." And it'll be fine. But time will pass, hours will (probably) turn into a few days worth of work, and when the time comes for everything to go back in you'll be sitting here wondering where the hell all of these nuts and bolts go.
Bag and label everything! This will save you hours and hours of cursing, wailing, and gnashing of teeth. There's nothing worse than ending a job with orphaned bolts in your hand. It will drive you insane any other way. Also, take yourself some reference photos of all the wiring connectors. It'll help you figure out which connectors you don't need any more.
As for motor mounts, I failed to specify exactly what you needed. It's the beta 1 manual transmission motor mount brackets, not the mounts themselves. Brackets. You're going to end up with a set of beta 1 auto transmission brackets (which won't bolt up to the tranny) and a set of beta 2 manual transmission brackets (which don't fit the motor mounts). You need the third option.
As for wiring, I'll try and lay it out pretty simply for a second to make sure we've got the ideas down pat.
1. Wiring the reverse lamp switch. Solder the lines from your current harness to the new reverse lamp switch on your manual. Only two wires, doesn't matter which one you connect to which from what I remember.
2. Wiring the neutral sensor safety switch. Wires 7 and 8 of the Transaxle Range Control switch, look up the diagram on HMAservice, or check the threads, wire these to your sensor on your clutch pedal. Again, only two wires, doesn't matter what order they're in.
3. Modifying the ECU (daunting, but easy). Cut pin 72. Measure twice, cut once, or even measure three times, just be sure you cut the right wire. Let's not make this any harder than it has to be. Also, wire pin 86 to a constant power supply, in this case they use the keyshift lock harness plug, so you're getting constant power whenever the key is set to on, this has to happen if you don't want to get a CEL. And especially since you don't want to have to do this over again, solder the connections. You don't want to have to tear everything apart one day because your quick-splice came undone.
See, the wiring's not nearly as bad as they make it out to be. I hate wiring and this job was easy compared to the stuff I had to do to my mustang.
You've got a great team of people on this forum who are definitely setting you up for success on this job.
When in doubt, remember this: Everything you're trying to do has been done before. It's possible, it's achievable, and you've got a lot of help at your fingertips. Just say the word and I'll do everything I can for you just short of driving out and helping you in person.
You're gonna do great.
#17
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once I got into it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I thought. I followed the DIY threads here and it was precise enough to do everything necessary. The only thing I missed was the reverse switch, but that was my fault (it was there, read right over it).
If you can replace your clutch, you can swap your tranny.
If you can't replace your clutch, spend 30 minutes on RDT reading and maybe even watch something on YouTube. Then swap your tranny so you can replace the clutch.
If you can replace your clutch, you can swap your tranny.
If you can't replace your clutch, spend 30 minutes on RDT reading and maybe even watch something on YouTube. Then swap your tranny so you can replace the clutch.
#18
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Still slightly confused about the mount(s), so I took a pic of what I have.
From what Jmans said, I am thinking I only really need the one on the left, the one without the rubber. Is that right? Or is there another bracket?
Wow looking at it like that the wiring isn't as scary lol.
Once again thanks guys for all the help, really making this a lot easier.
From what Jmans said, I am thinking I only really need the one on the left, the one without the rubber. Is that right? Or is there another bracket?
Wow looking at it like that the wiring isn't as scary lol.
Once again thanks guys for all the help, really making this a lot easier.
#19
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Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
It's the metal bracket that's bolted to the transmission that then connects to the lower transmission mounts (the pieces with the rubber) on the crossmember.
Here's a picture of my engine before I dropped it in, the bracket you need is the black metal piece bolted to the transmission. There's one for each side. You need a pair out of a manual transmission beta 1 tib.
Here's a picture of my engine before I dropped it in, the bracket you need is the black metal piece bolted to the transmission. There's one for each side. You need a pair out of a manual transmission beta 1 tib.