A loose connector is one thing, but then there are times where the contacts inside a connector are gapped out a bit, I've seen it happen on connectors with 3 or more connectors inside.

As for what else you should look at.

Uhm, how bout the big troubleshooting procedure chart above for your CEL???

 

no... he's right. the troubleshooting procedures I posted were in fact for a bad IAC. That's what they have listed on HMAService.com for a 304 fault. .... odd....

300 random misfire is as close as we're going to get here.... It's not the same but there will be alot of similarities.
2001 > G 2.0 DOHC > ENGINE > G 2.0 DOHC > DTC - P0300 TROUBLESHOOTING FOR DTC P0300DTCDiagnostic ItemP0300Random Misfire Detected
DESCRIPTIONTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDEDTC detection conditionProbable causeBackgrounda.If misfiring occurs while the engine is running, the engine speed suddenly changes.b.The engine control module checks for changes in the engine speed.Check Areaa.Five seconds or more have passed after the engine was started.b.Engine speed is between 500 and 6,000 r/min.c.Engine coolant temperature is higher than -10°C (14°F).d.Intake air temperature is higher than -10°C (14°F).e.Running free from sudden accelerations/decelerations such as shift change.Judgment Criteria (change in the angular acceleration of the crankshaft is used for misfire detection.)a.Misfire has occurred more frequently than allowed during the last 200 revolutions. [when the catalyst temperature is higher than 950°C (1,742°F)].b.Misfire has occurred more frequently than the allowed number of time (2%) during 1,000 motor revolutions.a.Ignition system related part(s) failedb.Poor crankshaft position sensor signalc.Incorrect air/fuel ratiod.Low compression pressuree.Engine coolant temperature sensor failedf.Timing belt missing teethg.Injector failedh.Engine control module failed
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

TEST PROCEDURE



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Ericy, I did finally get to take the crank sensor out and there was some rust accumulation on the end of the sensor which I thought would of made a difference but unfortunately still no progression.

DTN, I'll try to go through the procedure you listed. I've did pretty much the same checks over and over from hmaservice.com. I've used this site for troubleshooting ever since I've had the problem. I've already checked primary and secondary resistance in the coil like it says and it's fine, has new plugs and wires, fuel injectors aren't clogged, no obstructions to the air meter, acceleration sensor is fine, and no vacuum leaks. The only thing listed that I haven't checked is the canister purge valve but I'm sure its working properly.

Appreciate all the help guys. I'm hoping this thing gets fixed soon...

 

You said plugs are fouling in all 4 cyls. Are they just turning black? Also, what is the gap set to?

 

Yes, all the plugs are black. Even if I put in a new set and it ran for only 10 mins they would look the same. I gapped them to .040 just like the specifications said.

 

have you verified if they're sparking or not? You can check by turning over the engine while holding the plug by the plug wire against the intake manifold or any other metal surface. This will allow you to actually see the sparks.

Is everything clean down in your spark plug tubes?

Also, at night time I heard you can check for arcing by spraying everything down with a light mist of water on top of the engine and watching to see if it makes any sparks.

 

Yeah, I've checked for spark by pulling the plugs and placing it on the block and there is good spark. I did this back when I had the old coil on the car. I was getting weak spark from a few cylinders and figured the coil pack was bad. Now it already has the new coil and the spark is fine. As far as the mist thing I haven't tried it. I figured since I put a new set of NGK wires in I shouldn't have a problem with arcing.

 

ok, so we can assume spark is good.


Can you feel each of the fuel injectors clicking or check them with a stethoscope?

 

Well, I don't have a stethoscope lol but they do feel like they all click. The fuel rail and everything has been taken out before, it's been looked over and cleaned and put back together. I assume they are all working properly as the plugs are carbon fouled from all the fuel and the car is running rich. You can smell it in the exhaust.

 

from the 304 troubleshooting
.a.Ignition system related part(s) failed
b.Poor crankshaft position sensor signal any other codes accompanying this one?
c.Incorrect air/fuel ratio possible
d.Low compression pressure possible
e.Engine coolant temperature sensor failed any other codes?
f.Timing belt missing teeth
g.Injector failed
h.Engine control module failed possible