Hi guys!



Recently the engine of my car has started to act up. It will stall every time you put it in reverse and don't give it some throttle. Ive had to use one foot on the break and one foot on the throttle pedal lately just to get out of the driveway going downhill. It simply sputters and acts up before it dies. Sometimes you can save it by quickly break to a stop and then let the engine settle again. When breaking to stop at a stop light the engine can do the exact same thing, drop 300-400 rpm almost dying and then recover.



What do you think is wrong? Could it be that i overtightened the timing belt and thrown the timing slightly off? The belt doesn't make any sound of being too lose or too tight.

And, the knocking problem I'm having is still there...



Thanks!

 

I know you've posted before, but since we go through so many new threads every day it would help to explain everything again here.



You mentioned changing the timing belt. What else have you done recently (within weeks of this problem first starting)? This may help to narrow it down.

Also, how many miles are on your car? How long since you last swapped spark plugs, wires, etc?

 

^^



Of course. Just passed 100 k miles

The engine had a bad knocking sound which, after a engine flush, and new oil and filter, made me have a look at the HLA's. These turned out to be just fine (rock solid).

I did not change the timing belt, only removed it from the cam sprocket to be able to remove the cam shafts. When i installed it again it slipped a tooth or two on the crankshaft sprocket. As far as i understood this wasn't too bad, so i tried to jump it back, and after some hard work i got the timing belt back on and tightened it up. I then turned the engine by hand several turns to make sure there were nothing wrong before i started it up again.



I have had the oil pressure checked and it was good, which should rule out an oil pump failure. The car haven't thrown any codes or anything.

The car started acting like this a couple of weeks after i did the above mentioned work.



I havent changed the plugs or wires yet, what would be a recommended plug that i don't have to gap (never gapped a plug before) ?

Im getting even crappier MPG nowadays, down to 17 with about 70/30 city/HWY driving, but some have said its because the gas companies uses more ethanol in the gas during winter causing a drop in MPG.



Thanks, and hope this helps you guys

 

Get the plugs recommended by Hyundai and get a wire-gauge gapping tool. Gapping plugs takes 0 minutes and almost as little effort. Even "pre-gapped" plugs will be off a disturbingly large percentage of the time, right out of the box.



Do you have an actual oil pressure number (vs. just "good")?

 

Okey, will do.

The actual oil pressure reading i got was about 30 psi at idle when hot, and 50 psi at 3000 rpm while hot. Should be sufficient right?



Edit:

Took a look at my wires and plugs today, and found the setup of the wires a bit confusing. Looked at some images of tiburons and switched the 3rd and 4th cable in the ignition coil and didn't get the hesitation/stalling tendency when i put the car in reverse. Sadly the knocking didn't go away, and its weird how it ran good with this mixed up



This is what it used to look like:

 

Well that's one problem solved then.



That oil pressure is great.



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G 2.0 DOHC > Engine Mechanical System > General > TROUBLESHOOTING

Noisy valves

Thin or diluted engine oil (low oil pressure) - Change

Worn or damaged valve stem or valve guide - Replace

HLA abnormal operation - Speed the engine up (for venting) or Replace the HLA

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There's not much to it. If you can't deal with or eliminate the noise, and it turned out to be the valve guides, a new (used) cylinder head might be the easiest route to take but you aren't there yet.





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G 2.0 DOHC > Engine Mechanical System > Main Moving System > Camshaft > INSPECTION



Checking HLA: With the HLA filled with engine oil, hold A and press B by hand. If B moves, replace the HLA.

For other specific troubleshooting regarding HLA, refer to the table below.









Problem > Possible > Cause Action



1. Temporary noise on starting a cold engine > Normal > This noise will disappear after the oil in the engine has reached normal pressure.



2. Continuous noise when engine is started after longer than 48 hours parking. > Oil drain out of the high pressure chamber on HLA, allowing air to get in. > Noise will disappear within 15 minutes when engine is run at 2000-3000 rpm. If it does not disappear, refer to item 7 below

Do not run engine at a speed higher than 3000 rpm as this may damage HLA.



3. Continuous noise when engine is first started after rebuilding cylinder head. > Insufficient oil in cylinder head oil gallery.



4. Continuous noise after excessively cranking the engine by starter motor or by band. > Oil drain out of the high pressure chamber in HLA, allowing air to get in. Insufficient oil in HLA.



5. Continuous noise after changing HLA. (this is blank, useful right?)



6. Continuous noise during idle after high speed running. > Engine oil level too high or too low. > Check oil level. Drain or add oil as necessary.

Excessive amount of air in the oil at high engine speed. > Check oil supply system

Deteriorated oil > Check oil quality. If deteriorated, replace with specified type and amount of oil.



7. Noise continues more than 15 minutes. > Low oil pressure > Check oil pressure and oil supply system of each part of engine.



Faulty HLA. > Remove the cylinder head cover and press down HLA by hand. > If it moves, replace HLA.

Be careful of hot HLA.

 

I have changed the oil and filter to 10w30 and a Hyundai oil filter. After i did that i checked the HLA's which were rock solid, couldn't compress them at all and they didn't bleed out any air when i put them in oil and tried to compress them. I then put everything back together without getting rid of the noise.



Ive talked to a wrecker close by, and they wants either 650 dollars for a new engine (or just the head), and 1000 dollars if they are to install it. That seems kind of expensive, just a used head can't be that bad?



Thanks guys, really appreciate it!

 

You can probably score a head for

 

^^

That sounds more like a reasonable price. Will check out some more junk yards locally and see what i can dig up.



How hard is it to change the head on the 2 liter?



Thanks!

 

Drain coolant, unbolt everything, pop off the head, clean the mating surfaces, put it all back together. The torque and installation specs are all on hyundaitechinfo and they are very important to follow exactly. Nothing too HARD but it has to be done PERFECT. It might be harder to find the tools than to use them properly, in my opinion.