So you want cams....
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
So you want cams....
This comes straight from the pages of Sport Compact Car.
QUOTE
Here are some very generic typical specs for different types of cams. These are very general guidlines for a modern, 4 valve per cylinder DOHC, four-cylinder engine of between 1600 and 2000cc's. The durations stated here are Advertised Duration.
240 degrees of druation, 0.390" lift, 15 degress of overlap: cam works well from 700-6500 RPM, smooth as can be. Relatively low emissions
265 degrees of duration, 0.420" lift, 30 degrees of overlap: good street cam, pulls well from 4000-7500 RPM, slight lope to idle. Idle at about 900 RPM. Might pass a smog test. Might work with OBDII. Works well with most bolt-on power mods like Header, exhaust, air intake. Car feels fun to drive on the street and is most likely more responsive than stock almost everywhere in the powerband. Most people should stop here.
280 degrees of duration, 0.440" lift, pulls well from 4500-8000 RPM. Idle at 950 rpms with definite lope. Could pass a smog test with tricky fuel and ignition managment, most likely OBDII will NOT like this. Car might not feel good from a seat-of-the-pants perspective. Higher compression (10:1), headwork and headers become a big plus at this point. Special matched valve springs are most likely needed.
290 degrees of duration, 0.460" lift: high rpm lobe of a VTEC cam (duration only) really wild street cam or mild race cam, powerband from 5500-8500. Idle lopy at about 1200 rpm. Most likely will fail HC and CO part of smog test. OBDII system may experience some serious emotional problems. Higher compression (11:1), headwork, headers and other stuff become almost mandatory. Racing valve springs needed. Compression puts engine almost to the point of not working with pump gas.
305 degrees of duration, 0.500" lift: full race cam, powerband from about 7000 to 9000 rpm. Idle lopy at about 1400 RPM. Smog? Hah! OBDII system giggles and spews failure codes before becoming catatonic. High compression (at least 12:1), headwork, short-runner intake manifold, custome tuned header, bigger injectors, high powered ignition, and stiff valve springs become mandatory. Car wont run on pump gas anymore because of compression. Close-Ratio transmission needed due to narrow powerband. Car is just about undrivable on the street unless it's certian streets in Long Beach in April (grand prix). Some cam are even bigger than this. We have actgually seen cams with durations of up to 320 degrees used on some racecars.
If all of this thoroughly confuses you, don't worry; cam selection and tuning is a sometimes confusing subject. read this article again carefully; you should be able to talk the talk when selecting a cam and dialing it in. You are armed with some knowledge that can help guide you to select a good cam for your desired use, and help when getting a car dyno tuned at a local speed center. At least you will be armed with a pretty good general idea of cam theory, which can server you well as a BS filter.
240 degrees of druation, 0.390" lift, 15 degress of overlap: cam works well from 700-6500 RPM, smooth as can be. Relatively low emissions
265 degrees of duration, 0.420" lift, 30 degrees of overlap: good street cam, pulls well from 4000-7500 RPM, slight lope to idle. Idle at about 900 RPM. Might pass a smog test. Might work with OBDII. Works well with most bolt-on power mods like Header, exhaust, air intake. Car feels fun to drive on the street and is most likely more responsive than stock almost everywhere in the powerband. Most people should stop here.
280 degrees of duration, 0.440" lift, pulls well from 4500-8000 RPM. Idle at 950 rpms with definite lope. Could pass a smog test with tricky fuel and ignition managment, most likely OBDII will NOT like this. Car might not feel good from a seat-of-the-pants perspective. Higher compression (10:1), headwork and headers become a big plus at this point. Special matched valve springs are most likely needed.
290 degrees of duration, 0.460" lift: high rpm lobe of a VTEC cam (duration only) really wild street cam or mild race cam, powerband from 5500-8500. Idle lopy at about 1200 rpm. Most likely will fail HC and CO part of smog test. OBDII system may experience some serious emotional problems. Higher compression (11:1), headwork, headers and other stuff become almost mandatory. Racing valve springs needed. Compression puts engine almost to the point of not working with pump gas.
305 degrees of duration, 0.500" lift: full race cam, powerband from about 7000 to 9000 rpm. Idle lopy at about 1400 RPM. Smog? Hah! OBDII system giggles and spews failure codes before becoming catatonic. High compression (at least 12:1), headwork, short-runner intake manifold, custome tuned header, bigger injectors, high powered ignition, and stiff valve springs become mandatory. Car wont run on pump gas anymore because of compression. Close-Ratio transmission needed due to narrow powerband. Car is just about undrivable on the street unless it's certian streets in Long Beach in April (grand prix). Some cam are even bigger than this. We have actgually seen cams with durations of up to 320 degrees used on some racecars.
If all of this thoroughly confuses you, don't worry; cam selection and tuning is a sometimes confusing subject. read this article again carefully; you should be able to talk the talk when selecting a cam and dialing it in. You are armed with some knowledge that can help guide you to select a good cam for your desired use, and help when getting a car dyno tuned at a local speed center. At least you will be armed with a pretty good general idea of cam theory, which can server you well as a BS filter.
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From: Mesa, AZ
Vehicle: 2007 Tiburon
In terms of performance gain, stronger acceleration is achieved with a substantial horsepower gain of around 10%. This is a conservative but realistic figure. However the pleasure you will gain, as I have, from driving a car with a lot of attitude and character is fantastic.
The function of a camshaft is simply to operate the inlet and exhaust valves. In this case the duration and lift have been increased transforming the otherwise fairly sedate Hyundai engine into a hard reving engine once it comes up to the cam at around 3000 to 3500 rpm and continues strongly all the way to the rev limiter.The performance gain and added driving pleasure you receive from the HVe Motorsport camshaft represents great value for money.
All in all and in plain English what does this mean Hp wise?>15 maybe 20 Hp Yes, no,.....maybe so.
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
You'd have to get the specs from HVE. They say 10% HP gain, so 14 HP at the engine or 10 to 11 HP at the wheels on a dyno.
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How much are we talking $$$$ ? There a local shop that will do 1.8 cams for 120.00 installed. Is that a good deal? So new cam's will produce 10HP gain? And also help with the A/C issue? What about the install? If I buy the cams..should i have them install? I have no idea really about the install..any pointers? Or is 120.00 good?
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120 doesn't sound to bad for the cam and install. But it's not so bad putting one in. There is a link I found somewhere that had step by step instructions on how to install the new cam. I'll look around and see if I can't find it again.
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
No the 1.8L cam will NOT give you 10 HP. The 10 HP extrapolated from the HVE website.
For HVE's cams, they claim a 10% increase in power. That means 14 Hp at the engine out of a 140 HP motor. So that translates into 10 or so ponies at the wheels.
A shop should be able to do a cam swap install in 1.5 to 2 hours. See what their hourly labor rates are and decide if $120 is a deal. If you have done them before, and are familar with the process, you could probably shave that down to 1 hour to 1.5 hours.
For HVE's cams, they claim a 10% increase in power. That means 14 Hp at the engine out of a 140 HP motor. So that translates into 10 or so ponies at the wheels.
A shop should be able to do a cam swap install in 1.5 to 2 hours. See what their hourly labor rates are and decide if $120 is a deal. If you have done them before, and are familar with the process, you could probably shave that down to 1 hour to 1.5 hours.
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How much are we talking for CAM's? I misunderstood something somewhere...I thought it was $120.00 for the cams and also the install. But now it looks like cam's run 1,200.00-1,500.00 is this correct? Knew it was too good to be true..hehe. But that is for NEW from HVE. What cam's can be installed into our 2nd gen sharks? Maybe I can locate them cheap and do the install my self. Can any one give a little info on this post...
Thanks
Thanks