FluteMuffin

Hey all,

I was out driving last night, and just finished a nice little (fast) drive through some mountain roads around here. Once I got back into the city, I noticed a power drop off at around 4,500rpms while accelerating quickly. Compared to the usual feeling of increacing power up the power band, it sort of felt like it just gave in after 4,500rpms. My ride is a 2000 Elantra, 2.0L Beta engine, all stock.

This happened only last night a few times, and at the same place on my tach, but today the car seems fine... puzzling. Any comments, suggestions on what to check. I figure I will check my plugs and air filter first, those being the most simple things I can think of that would cause a problem. But I'm no guru, so I need some input...

thanks!

Random

Easy thing to check is Fuel Injectors. Throw some fuel injector cleaner in at your next fill up and see if that solves it ..but I doubt it.

My guess is that your coil pack is staring to go bad. Yours would be the 3rd I know about this week if so...

The Beta coil packs don't last very long.

FluteMuffin

Hey Random, what is a coil pack and how do I make sure this does not happen all of the time... I have never seen this on the message board. if I get a new one, won't it just keep happening. The car is only one year old!

Fast.Type-S

random, could you post some information on this item? And also any other info. like url's...


Thanks

FluteMuffin

Ignition coil, spring coil, coil field... all terms I am associated with, but I have no idea what a coil pack is...

Tiburon_69er

Yeah Random is talkin about the ignition coil. For the location it is mounted against the firewall. If you cant find it, follow your plug wires until you got to the block for wires. Then there is a taped up wire harness that splits into 3 directions. if you follow them one should lead you to the cylender mounted to the firewall. To test this problem you would have to remove your plug wires one at a time. Starting with the left most wire. Pull the wire off your plug. Remove the spark plug, then put the plug back into the wire. Then have some one turn your ignition once or twice, but be careful not to start the car. You should see the plug spark very quickly! If it is not sparking you should replace that plug. But if you replace the plug you most likely have a prob with the coil at that point. Very rearly do wires go bad, unless you physically damage them in some way. You can replace the coil yourself, but if your car is still under warrenty I would suggest to let the dealer take care of it. Fell free tp post any questions. I will try and help out.

Random

Uh...close but no Cigar!

I am talking about the COIL PACK. It is where the spark plug wires end.

If you park your car while hot/warm in a dark area at night (alley...in a big shadow..etc..), and idle your engine, you should not see a damn thing. That is good.

When you rev the engine via the Throttle body pulley...when you get to about 4000+ RPM, you should start to see a disco strobe going on around the coil pack, or between a sparkplug wire and the block. That is your coil pack arcing against the block, or your spark plug wires arcing against the block. NOT GOOD.

Congradulations...you have a bad coilpack or bad sparkplug wires!

They should be replaced under warranty, but for those out of warranty, they cost about $40 from St. Charles Auto.

If you do the above test, and it is NOT the coil pack and/or wires...I will be suprised.

[ June 19, 2001: Message edited by: Random ]

FluteMuffin

Thanks Random,

I'll check this and take it into the dealer this week for the warranty work.

Jaws99

Another thing to do is to find out what the resistance (ohms) of the pack is. Sorry I don't know of habd what it is. Then get a multi meter and connect it to each post individually let's say for ****s and giggles it should be 14 ohms if one out of the four registers higher or lower on your meter the pack is bad or if 2 do or so on and so on you get the point. I beleive if I'm not mistaken it should be in your manual and if not invest $10 and buy a chilton's manual for the car probably the best modification anyone can buy for their car it tells you how to check and fix anything and everything.

Random

Jaws99

Only prolem with your theory is that the "arcing" is the break down of the Coil Pack insulation, but it is not a complete failure. The failure usually only happens at 4000 RPM or higher...so it requires a rather rapid charge/discharge of the coil pack.

I don't think that a resistance check would show any anomoly.