Now you are at the point where you need to do some searching again my man. Search for Thermostat, Temperature Sensor, ect.

There are ways to test them, some are listed here, but I'd go to HMAService.com and look.

I doubt they are expensive, but replacing parts doesn't always fix problems.

The thermostat COULD be sticking, but your temperature wouldn't just stop and then raise, it would keep going.

When is the last time you changed your fluid, and did you flush it?

 

The fluid was changed and flushed earlier this week when the water pump was changed. I will try and find some info on testing the temp sensor(s)... could they really be the problem?

 

did you verify that the air was burped out of the coolant system?

A thermostat can do all sorts of funny things depending on what is broken, bent, or cracked, or just not up to spec.

If you're not familiar with it, you may want to spend some time at hyundaitechinfo.com.

 

Ya, air was burped, but I will do it again. As for those two temp sensors, I found them listed in another thread as the ECT Sender and ECT Sensor... what does ECT stand for? It's not in the list of abreviations.

 

Electric Coolant Temperature?

Probably.

I didn't se eyou had work done, just was wondering what NTB was. LOL Yup, make sure she is burped and the coolant is actually running correctly. Check your surge tank too. Dirty? Smelly? Oily? Empty?

 

I can't find the torque settings for the temperature sensor or temp sender that screw into the thermostat housing. I am getting both today since they are cheap jsut to rule them out, but wanted to torque them properly. Also, should I use any kind of thread sealer on them?

 

Have you ever messed with the fans, or have they ever been removed and put back in? Are the plugs in perfect condition?

I pulled my fans in and out when working on my car a few times, and the plug was partially broken. When I plugged it back in, I had the plug flipped so the poles were opposite, causing the fan to spin the wrong direction. This would cause my fan to push hot air from the engine bay INTO the radiator when I was sitting still, and my temp sensor would go sky high in a heartbeat (but was fine when I was driving).

I believe both fans should be pulling air through the radiator, so air should be blowing into the engine bay. Don't stick your hand down there or you'll get a finger slicing like I did... use a piece of paper to see which direction the air is blowing from the fan.

 

Ok, so I am on to a new problem and more consitant overheating now.

I replaced the thermostat & gasket, along with the temperature sensor & temp sender (all good with no leaks). I put a new radiator cap on, and burped the system. I let lots of air come out, even as it was starting to overheat again. I have never burped a system, but am pretty sure all the air is out.

Now it overheats some when I let it sit AND drive it. It would go up fast at first but thats when air was still in. So after burping it, it did overheat but a much slower progression up the guage. When I drive it, it stays just above the center temp marks, but not up to high... presumably because air is flowing through it from driving keeping it cool.

Once I stop and let it idle, it will kreep up again.

Now, the first time it shot up fast, the second A/C fan came on which I had noticed before, that it kicks in when the temp is getting very high. But what I noticed was my main, larger fan (drivers side) is not coming on at all now. Maybe it had been ocasionaly before, but now it just won't come on. If I let the car idle, I can turn the A/C on, and it turns the second fan on with it, keeping the temp at 3/4. I switched the relays for the two fans, and no change, A/C fan still worked so I don't think it's a relay. Plus I checked and at least the working fan is blowing the right way.

So... should I buy a new fan? Or anyway I could test it? Any ideas on why it's not coming on? How early should that main fan come on?

 

Believe it or not, from a troubleshooter's perspective (and coming from a trained troubleshooter) a consistent failure is MUCH better than intermittent failure!

If you put 12V to the fan, and it does not run, it is bad. This is the easiest test to do. If you put 12V to the fan relay, and the fan does not run, either the relay, the wiring, or the fan is bad. If you put 12V to the relay and the fan does run, something farther upstream in the control loop is bad.

If you need one, there is a good chance any number of members on this board have used fans for less than the stealership will want (heck *I* might even have my old fans).

 

Ya, I just hooked it up to my battery and nothing. Just to make sure I was doing it right i checked the A/C fan and it came on. I got the fan out and am trying to get the motor out. Autozone has a motor for it for $50 so I'm jsut going to do that so I don't have to wait for shipping. As long as I can get this damn blade off the motor will come out and all should be good.