Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

No longer sad about MAP

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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 04:03 AM
  #21  
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I have ABS, so I can't put the resivor there. On the balancing issue, how about using larger diameter tubing for the longer intake? Say 3 inch into the fender well, and 2.5 inch somewhere down low on the other side. I assume I should use the same filters on both intakes.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 08:24 AM
  #22  
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I got the most beautiful idea!!!! Why not have the one sides that opens first go to the wheel well to get air like normal. Then have the second have a dip that has something incase water gets in will dip out maybe. But have that second one go to a Ram Air hood!! The air would be going full force. Though I am not sure, you might have to tweak it so their isn't too much air being forced on the butterfly value. What you guys think?
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 08:30 AM
  #23  
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Hey Random

Would you have to worry about makeing a seprate fuel mangment system for this time of setup. And do we run in to the maf/map problmes that we run in to with all the other european mods?
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 05:32 PM
  #24  
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Bad Beta-
This setup would ONLY work on a MAP equipped Beta.

The diameter change for the more restrictive pipe might work, but the difference between 3" and 2.5" is so large, the 3" intake would have to be nearly twice as long for them to equal out.

You can make a vaccum gauge at home. www.autospeed.com.au has an easy how to guide.

The harder part would be actually testing. For the testing to be accurate, the engine would need to be under load.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 06:39 PM
  #25  
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Random-

Why would you need twice as much length with the 3 inch tube vs. the 2.5 inch tube. Are you using crosssectional area as the measure, or something else? I figured it would only have to be 1.5 times longer.

Also, what do you think of those reactive heatshields. I think brandon has one. Would that be a fairly good alternative to the fender well.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 07:22 PM
  #26  
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The 3" pipe length vs 2.5" pipe length would have to be tested to find the equalizing point, because pipe restriction varies with pipe diameter, 1.5 times the length is not going to give you 1.5 times the restriction. There is not 1.5 times the inner surface area between a 3" pipe and a 2.5" pipe.

I do NOT like the reactive heat shield air filters. They only block air from the filter, they do not block "hot air" from going in the filter. If the air filter is in the engine compartment, it is going to be sucking in hot engine comparment air. putting a baffle around the filter only restricts the flow, not block hot air.
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Old Apr 28, 2002 | 02:33 PM
  #27  
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I thought you might feel that way about the heat shields. Thanks for the clarification.

I went out to my car and had a better look under the hood. I'm not sure I believe that there's even any room for the second intake. The only think I can think of is attaching the filter directly to the IM. There is just so much stuff on the passenger side of the engine not to mention the plastic moulding that I might just get rid of. I'm still waiting for a reply from David at RPW about specifications and hopefully a picture of it installed on the Beta

[ April 28, 2002, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: neal ]
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Old Apr 29, 2002 | 09:28 AM
  #28  
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could you hook the two together like a h pipe on a
exhaust. And get away with one cold air fillter. I figer the h pipe should do the same thing on the intake as it does on the exhaust.. equal out the pressure.
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Old Apr 29, 2002 | 09:29 AM
  #29  
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If there was room
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Old Apr 29, 2002 | 02:36 PM
  #30  
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I suppose you COULD combine the intakes down to one filter, but I think the intake might become the most restrictive part of the system. Also, where would you locate the filter? Either infront of the headers or behind the engine- neither of which would be ideal.
Maybe Random can offer more suggestions.
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