Stocker

Caj YGPM

bigfishmoney

oil change
marvel mystery oil, idle for 5-10 mins

if nothing

retorque cam bearing bolts, and check to see if the HLAS in the cylinder head of your engine are messed up.

derikbeavers

that ticking (we seem to be having alllot any more idea.gif ) just got really bad for me the other day sad.gif I was casually driving ( home from work) and just got off 95 and the engine stumbled a little ( 45-55 Mph) so i took it real easy to the house to pop the hood and discover the tick got really bad to the point it was kind of stumbling and messing up at idel.! I thought I really did it this time!! Then i find this thread ( and all the other awsom info in these forms) and after reading till my head hurts smile.gif i think i am set to tare into this problem { I am going to just try replacing all the HLA's ( because of the change in the new ones) and make shure there bores have no trash or somthing like that} the only thing i cant seem to find is if,

WHEN I pull the camshafts do i need to pull the chamshaft timing sprocket and change the oil seal or can i save money by being careful not damage the seal?
( in the Haynes manual it skerts around and i cant find it with search in here ) I just reached 133,000 with alot of fun along the way !! i probley will pick up a puller and the seal but i just wanted some EXPERT advice hail.gif

Stocker

Slow down there skippy. Don't just go slapping a couple hundred dollars worth of HLAs in there because you have a suspicion!

Are you sure you don't have one or more loud/failing fuel injector(s)? That could explain some ticking as well as poor running.

When is the last time you flushed-and-changed the oil? You ARE using one of the very few recommended oil filters, right?

If the timing belt hasn't been replaced (twice by now) the sudden change in running quality could be because the timing belt skipped a tooth. The timing is easy enough to check without needing to replace any seals.



If you are not familiar with it, have a search for "webtech" or "hyundaitechinfo" here, and you'll find a username and password. There you will find online shop manuals from Hyundai for your car, and you can read until your head hurts again.

derikbeavers

Stocker thanks for the warning but the damage was already done sad.gif ( i was away so i could not check on the post)
so i got the new hla's in ( the new ones hade the same size hole as the old ones? sad.gif )and ran fine for a bit( 10 min) and boom a loud click and more ticking ( somtimes misses on that cylinder) then it cleared up ( for about 1 min)then right back ( all in a matter of 15 min )

I change the oil on the regular( 3-5,000miles),( mobil 1 syn 15,000 extended protection ) Oem filter in a week fing02.gif ( is there anything i can change it to for now, from advanced auto hail.gif ( i searched with no luck))and i try to flush it every other change( with fresh oil, NO "fix it in from a can" flush)

I just checked the injecters and the tick is at a different interval than the injecter on that cylinder fing02.gif
while i was in there i changed the timing belt ( cus it needed done ) so that is deffently good fing02.gif ( the missing and stumbling is intermitent)

While doing the hla swap i, noticed the spark plug for the #4 cylinder ( where the tick is) was mising the piece of metal ( that you bend to set the gap)
so i grabbed this nifty little magnet that can fit down through the spark plug hole but i cant find the piece sad.gif
i think that it could that have gone through or is it maby jammed in there some where and causing this PLEASE help hail.gif

iheartmyrd

to be honest it very well could have passed through throw a new spark plug in that bish and try it.

Stocker

The tick *might* be unburned gas from that cylinder lighting off in the exhaust manifold. The piece of spark plug could well have been ejected by now, but I would want to use a borescope or itty bitty dental mirror or a piece of broken mirror on a stick (or something) to get a good look inside the cylinder, and up at the roof of the chamber. A compression and leakdown test wouldn't hurt either, if you have the equipment.

I use the purlator pure one filter (forget the number) from Advance sometimes, no ticking troubles.

+1 for a new spark plug. If it's time for all four, go for them all plus new wires b/c it needs it anyhow.

derikbeavers

This tick is deffiently coming from the intake valves for the # 4 cylinder( i got a really messy chance to hear it with the valve cover OFF laugh.gif )
I've ran purlator's for a while cus i go by the "u get what u pay for" motto fing02.gif

I changed plugs and double checked there gap.

Yall were right about the piece of spark plug ( a LOUD ping in the exaust for that cylinder fing02.gif )
i have oil coming with new purlator so i can test tonight ! ( i am gunna try to let it warm up )
i am starting to think i need to go lower into the head for this one! ( please no new valves)
PS i really appreciate all this help hail.gif !

Stocker

I would normally say that running engines with the valve covers off is a bad idea, but as long as it's not MY car, driveway, or formerly-clean set of clothes, it could be a lot of fun wink1.gif It is possible that the spark plug electrode damaged one of those valves or its seat, if it got knocked in there at just the wrong moment. Fortunately, this gives you a chance to try out Singh grooves . . . which, unfortunately need the head to be off, to be cut.

If the ticking comes and goes, and it is from a funky valve seal, that could be due to a coked-up valve, rotating in place and sometimes sealing with the crud on the back of the valve. The crud which could be coming from sh*tty combustion due to a bad spark plug.

I think it's officially time for compression and leakdown tests. They're not too hard to DIY if you have the tools . . . and they're also a good excuse to get the tools! laugh.gif

Dont worry about the cost of one or two new valves, they're only like $10 ish each. The $50 gasket kit you need when the head comes off is worse than a couple of valves. Don't forget a fresh bottle of antifreeze and (more! ) oil will also be called for. If it comes time for getting a valve job because the seat is damaged, well, you might keep your eyes open for a good (not from a car with a bad timing belt) used cylinder head. I don't know what a going rate is these days for a valve seat recutting job, but my guess is it wouldn't be cheaper than a used head. Call a few machine shops in your area before making that decision.

"all this help" is why half of us are here. You are welcome, I'm sure.