Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Help! Quick! Stuck On Highway!

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Old 12-26-2005, 10:22 AM
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I can put it in no problem but once I hit the gas it pops right out, no grinding at all!

Mod Edit: you've been told once in this thread already not to quote the post above you. listen next time
Old 12-26-2005, 10:25 AM
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This is a quite common problem on 5th gear in DSMs. The shifter a tendency to move when you let off the gas while in gear and sometimes pop out of gear. When I purchased the car, the person before me had already done this, and said it tightened up the shifting very well. However, I don't know how similar Mitsubishi trannies are to these trannies. This is taken from ClubDSM, and it probably won't work for Tibbies, but it may save you a a heck of a lot of money. Keep in mind the differences between the cars, ex. tranny on the passenger side.

First you are going to put the car in reverse and to jack up the front passenger side of the car and place it on a jack stand so you can remove the tire, remove the wheel. Next you are going to remove remove two bolts and two plastic screws that hold the black plastic splash shield on. Its the one located behind the wheel just in front of the transaxle side cover. Once you remove the splash shield you will see this...



Remove the fill bolt, then remove the drain bolt to drain the gear oil out of the transaxle. Once the gear oil is drained out you can remove all of the bolts holding the cover one. (11 or 12 bolts). Next comes the interesting part, if you look on the side of the transaxle you will notice that those bolts were holding on a two part case. You only want to separate the cover from the case. The case is stuck on there pretty good and remember it is aluminum so you don't want to beat it too hard! I basically used a thin flathead screw driver and used it with a hammer to pry the case apart. Be careful not to hammer to hard since there is no gasket, the case and cover are just sealed with RTV.

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(6/30/1999)Another tip from (Aaron Tak - turbonet@pacbell.net) on removing the cover:
There's an eyelet of some sort by the oil-drain plug, so after you initially drain the oil, use a very large flat tip screw driver or a flat file and push it inward against the eyelet perpendicularly, it will *pop* and there you have it. Don't forget to put that oil drain pan under it as A LOT more oil will come out once you slowly loosen it off.
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Chances are that the top 36 mm nut is on finger tight, mine was. You will notice that there are two slots on the top input shaft and that there are two dimples (dents) on the sides of the nut. There is only one slot on the bottom shaft. Now clean up the existing gasket goop off of the cover and transaxle. If you beat the heck out of the cover trying to get it off make sure it still has a smooth surface on the cover side. I used a flat file on the dinged area to ensure the case still had a flush fit.

Now you will need to go to the driver side splash shield behind the wheel and remove the round rubber grommet so you can get to the bolt that will secure the crank shaft so the engine doesn't rotate while you are torqueing down those 36 mm nuts. I used a socket and a large 1/2" drive breaker bar. Just put the socket on the bolt and have the breaker bar pointing toward the floor.

Go back to the passenger side. Now you will need that torque wrench and a 36 mm socket. If the nuts are real loose you can just torque them down. If they appear tight, loosen them first then torque them back down. Slowly start to tighten the top nut, you will notice your breaker bar on the other side of the car will start to turn until it is resting against the lower control arm on the suspension. Now you will be able to torque this nut to 108-110 ft lbs. (tight!). Do the same to the lower nut.

Now that they are tight, you can use a flathead screw driver or a chisel and hammer to pound some dimples into the nut (in the slots on the shaft) to prevent the nut from coming loose again. Two dimples for the top nut, one for the bottom.

While you have the cover off, inspect the inside of it for wear if any of the nuts were loose. If they were loose for a long period of time eventually they might wear a hole in the cover, not to mention the other damage to the transaxle that would occur if the nuts came off.

Make sure the case and cover have a clean and dry surface. Apply the RTV to the transaxle side and put the cover back on. Put the bolts back in and torque to spec. Install the drain bolt. Once the cover is on wait at least one hour for the RTV to dry before adding the gear oil.

Now you can clean up, remove the breaker bar from the crank shaft bolt. After at least an hour of drying time you can add the gear oil in the filler hole until it starts to flow out the hole, about 2.3 quarts. Make sure you don't have any obvious leaks, and then you can put the rest of the car back together.

Along with my shifter not moving any more on my 93 Eagle Talon AWD, I have noticed smoother shifter in all gears because of this fix. Those two 36 mm nuts hold all the gears together on the input shaft, so its easy to see why your shifter would move when they are loose.
Old 12-27-2005, 04:49 AM
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QUOTE (Mad_john @ Dec 26 2005, 10:24 AM)
the 32mm nut on the 5th gear syncro has come loose...what you describe is what happen to me 4 weeks ago... all you have to do is pull off that end part of the tranny... then with a NEW nut toque it down to specs and then lock it the is a U notch on the main input shaft it self you get a flat blade screwdriver and and make a notch on it " look at you old nut you will know what i am talking about" the top off tranny oil... i got one question does it make a grinding sound when you put it in gear? and then pop out of gear when you let off the clutch.. if so then that is your problem

the other is you have striped the gear...



Mad john is correct your nut on the end of the input or ouput shaft of the transmission is come off. I also had this problem which eventually wore a ring and hole in the side of the case in only 30miles. Just jack the car up on to the passanger side most of the oil will flow over there then take that endcap off if the nut is lose then thats your problem but if its not you should be able to see what is. If it is lose change the tranny fluid as there are metal particals all in the oil. So mad john why did you nut come lose. Lsd install? lol
Old 12-27-2005, 09:47 AM
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Ye, after reading it, the DIY I posted is just a long way of saying exactly what Mad John said. tongue.gif
Old 12-27-2005, 11:28 AM
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Same thing happend in my car, i believe it was the syncros. 5th gear kept popping out, i never had a chance to fix it. one day on the LIE 4th blew out, then 3rd, then 2nd. It sucked. Do something before this happens to you.
Old 12-27-2005, 11:46 AM
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wow making this prob sound like its shouldnt be a big deal if i work on it soon. ya'll are awesome. i got it home. ill work on it tomarrow morn. gotta spend time with the fiance today. thanks to everyone for the help. got another topic prob coming up.
Old 12-30-2005, 03:11 PM
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ok i been staring blindly at the tranny from under the car and over the car for about an hour trying to figure out where im swupposed to get into the tranny on this car! theres no room! o well can i get the link to the DSM DIY or some more specific instructions? im tranny retarded***




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