hamhead

As the Tiburon is similar to the Mitsu N/A motor (I forget the engine code) in 1995-1999 Eclipses (really similar) I would expect 240whp max out of it, thats with it stroked/fully built/individuals/etc.

170whp is about max with bolt-ons, maybe a lil more with crazy cams. Then you get started into insane money territory like td is doing. cool.gif

tdonnell

I already have the outlaw spacers and all of the lightweight power pulley's including a fidanza flywheel and stage 3 clutch.

My goal was not an ALL OUT NA car, just a damn quick na car. If I want to pursue speed further with the tiburon, I will spend another 10,000 and build an insane turbo setup to boost roughly 20-25 psi.

Thanks for the input.

SOCKS_old

yah that code is the 420a right?

anyway, i cant wait to see these results.. im anxious...

td, i would suggest to go with a few more N/A mods if this dont make ya happy, before the leap to turbo territory, unless ya wanna spend some more mega $$$, lol.. it always comes out to about 1.5-2X more than you would think it would cost.. which im sure u know.

tdonnell

^^^Yeah, I have really been thinking about doing the 1.8L pistons, but don't want to invest the time into it.

If I really wanted to, I could pull the engine out myself, break the block down, run the 2.0 pistons and rods down to a machine shop I used to work at (not nearly as good as the shop my head is at now), along with the new 1.8's. Then he would probably let me press the pistons off myself, and I would give him a few bucks to heat the wrist pin bore of the rod and slip the pistons on them (if they are a pressed fit design). I could then hone the block myself with a ball hone and re-assemble everything with a mock up used head gasket to check for valve to piston clearance at various cam timing positions. Then do the finalized head installation.

But that is another project. I wonder what kind of power I would get from one point of compression increase? Any ideas? I figure 20 hp max. Please give me some input/opinions here guys.

I also have something nagging me as well guys, are our head bolts torque to yeild or what? I am planning on re-using the ones on my 57k engine now. That should be ok right? Or do I need to go ahead and buy head studs for another 150 or so, lol.

What I really need and would REALLY help me out is a damn tune. I need to get a higher redline and better ignition/fuel timing. You know that flat spot at 3500-4300 rpm?? During that time at WOT, the air fuel ratio goes down to 10.5-11.0:1. Rich as hell for an NA car. It would be nice to get that worked out and take care of the ignition timing and higer redline. I'll bet after this head a good tune alone would yeild at least 10 hp.

Man, it's nice to see this thread finally getting some replies. Thanks guys. fing02.gif

hamhead

I'm 90% I remember Viper saying they are NOT torque to yield.


1:0 compression probably won't make that much diff. Probably 5-7whp.

tdonnell

Thanks ham, that is a relief.

That is what I am saying about the high compression pistons. Not worth the effort IMO. Like I said, I would rather get some pauter's and put them in with my 82.5mm wiseco's for a nice boost setup. Of course, then I would need to go PRS4 and I would be clueless as to how to pass the 'plug in' OBDII test the do for emissions except to remove everything I have and put in the stock stuff every 2 years, lol.

Thanks for the info. cool.gif

SOCKS_old

or if you go with a emanage, it would be easier to go back to stock emissions.. just turn off all the maps, and itll run all stock again.. duno if its the same with the PRS4..

running all stock maps, as long as you dont have to rev the car much, it should breathe clean, if you have the cats, and stuff. or you could keep a ebay CAI handy, and a stock exhaust system.. swap it in a day, and then turn off your fuel/ignition maps, and pass.

tdonnell

The Emanage is still a piggyback though right? Would be hard to tune for the kind of boost I want with a piggyback.

Anyway, as usual, the head still is not done, lol. The owner said the guy who is doing the work on it had to take his son to the doctor today or something. I am not really that worried about it anyway since I won't be able to install it until this weekend anyway.

Here is the good news! I ran my car on a dyno today!!!

Here is the pic of the sheet:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...dQuarter002.jpg

151.5 whp
126.4 ft. lbs. torque

Seemed somewhat weird that the power increased when the a/f went really rich around 4k? Maybe I should try richening the mixture as well?

Seems like my estimates were pretty accurate. I am hoping to get to at least 165 with the head install and some cam and air fuel tuning. For the second run I leaned it out about 3% and picked up a horsepower, but it is still running low 12's up in the r's so if I can get that further toward 13 I figure I could pick up another 4-5 horses with that alone. Who knows what the cam timing changes will do but the butt dyno says it is fastest where they are now.

BTW: The intake and IM was heat soaked quite badly and the shop ambient temp was around 80 F.

Thanks for the continued support! cool.gif

Zman

That's good...
151WHP is actually good for a N/A Tib... nice...
What was the average WHP for a stock TIb? Was it around 125 right?

Actually it seems like "too" high those 151WHP (not that I don't beleive you and you posted your sheet); I remember somewhere over you posted the complete list of mods you have on your car (and I am talking about what you have installed RIGHT NOW); I tried searching but didn't find it... can you direct me to the post please?

tdonnell

Well, stock hp at the crank is 126, and I beleive stock whp is about 115.

Here is a new thread on the topic Zman:

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry255848

The shop techs said their dyno is very accurate so I have no doubts in that regard.