faithofadragon

well if you get someone to do it right (ie extrude hone is like 750) with a good tune i would say about 15-20hp is possible from both the head and tune

just headwork alone i would say 10-15 if not less....

tdonnell

Huh, I dunno about the extrude hone, but I know the shop has a flow bench.

Everyone I talk to (including older muscle car tuners as well as import tuners) say that this is the shop to go to so I would expect top notch work.

Hopefully airborne will respond to my PM here soon, so I can ship him out the ecu.

Are oversized valves worth it? Guess since I'll be staying at 7200 my stock valvtrain will work just fine.

Will shaving off some of the head to increase compression yeild any serious gains?

Thanks again for all the help.

faithofadragon

well shaving the head also messes up the quelch area which would cause some problems i know madjohn had some crazy high compression with a shaved head (like 12.5:1) and the 1.8 pistons

extrude hone is a company that does GREAT work alot of professional drivers use them to do stuff like that instead of just enlarging the hole and hoping it increases hp extrude hone uses some wierd putty lookin stuff makes the metal smooth and it increases velocity

ive always wondered if a extrude honed stock IM and head would do...

ferrea (sp?) makes oversized valves, stronger retainers, and better springs
rpw i heard makes them too but i havent been able to confirm(i know they do the springs and retainers at least...)

JonGTR

IQFOREVA had an Extrude Honed manifold and RSide TB. He sold it to someone here I believe.

Mad-Machine

Extrude Hone uses a putty not that dissemilar to Silly Putty (mixed with abrasives). Silly putty is in a unique catagory of substances. Solids that flow like liquids. By using these unique properties, the putty can carefully grind away ONLY what causes obstructions in the flow.

As for raising the redline. I would not go beyond 7200 without some serious lightening and balancing of the crank, rods, and pistons. Get the best you can to start with and go from there. Might also want to look into better head and rod bolts to keep it all buttoned down as well.

tdonnell

Good stuff guys, thanks.

No doubt from the advice I have recieved here I will not be raising the redline to more than 7200.

Can't I get ARP head studs? I think JonGtr mentioned something about ARP studs. I know there is a sticky somewhere, I'll have to find it.

JonGTR

It's a sticky in the FI section.

tdonnell

Damn, is it just me or are those studs and nuts expensive? It would cost over 200 bucks for head studs?? Or is it 100 (do you get 2 for 25?). That seems pretty expensive??

Still wondering what kind of gains I could see from a port/polish and airbornes ecu flash (has yet to respond to my pms!)? Any ideas?

If I did get it done I would get it ported a little bigger than I would need it now, that way I wouldn't have to pay to do it again for the turbo setup, just get it ported to flow a bit more than I can right now.

Thanks.

'treezy

that r-side wasn't extrude honed, just a regular kspec r-side BBTB. I believe Screwdriver (Aviv) has it now unless he sold it to someone else. I love following parts around this site, LOL.

tdonnell

Ok guys, I figured I would bring this topic back to life considering the fact that I just dropped my cylinder head off at that well known shop I was talking about.

I decided to go with custom oversized MANLEY valves. He said they are just as good as ferrea and they are located right in NJ so they are only 1-2 hours away (faster turnover rate). Anyway, I discussed many things with him in regards to what I want and how much power I would roughly expect. I ended up with a rough figure of about 10-15 whp with the valves, port and polish work, and 5 angle valve job (no stones here, they have a completely CNC valve job machine with custom radius bits to cut the valve seats).

Anyway, I paid 350 for the valves (21.80 ea.). That is roughly 1-2 dollars less each than the ferrea.

I decided to go with the stock springs, retainers, etc. since there is no easy way to increase redline without a standalone, and the stock springs should be good to prevent float up to 7250 (according to airborne) since the cams I have don't increase lift too significantly compared to stock. They are 268's at 9.2mm of lift. Also, the bottom end would have trouble holding up for an extended period of time with any faster speed than 7250 if I do eventually raise it.

He is going to shave the head roughly .004 to .010" (depends on how warped it is, if at all). He said the average need is about .005".

I need to take him an IM, EX, and head gasket so he can see how far he can go with the porting. He also said he needed the head gasket to see if he can scoot that straight down section near the exhaust valves farther out to help flow.

They will be smoothing out all combustion chamber surfaces, cutting the valve seats with a 5 angle cutter, and porting inward and out toward the gasket surfaces from there.

Hopefully I can manage to get a good gain out of this since overall it will cost 800-1000 dollars including the valves.

I decided to use a dremel to port out the Airram as much as I can, although I don't think I will be able to do too effective of a job considering the depth of the ports. I may have him do it depending on the price. Regardless, he said its not too big of a deal if the IM ports are smaller than the head ports, but the airram ports are already smaller than the head intake ports so I think I could surely gains some flow if I increase the IM port size. I should be able to unbolt that top cover peice to gain access to the top of the ports correct?

I have a question, I have heard of using the 1.8L pistons (which I have in my old engine hehe) with a beta 2 head gasket will increase compression from 10.3 to 11.3 right? So that means the beta 2 head gasket must be thinner correct? Does it have the exact same layout design as the beta 1? I would assume so. I only ask this because if he needs a gasket I will just go get and use a beta 2 gasket, but I want to make sure it is exactly the same so he doesn't port it incorrectly. Although it is a better idea just to pull the head off my 1.8 motor and give him the used gasket so the new 150 dollar gasket doesn't get fvcked up.

Thanks for any inputs you may have and answers to the above questions would be much appreciated. smile.gif

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