Flywheel Suggestions?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,285
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
DTN if you search my posts you can see what happened to me and my f1 racing/gripforce flywheel. DO NOT BUY FROM GRIPFORCE / F1 RACING ON EBAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,285
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
the XTD stuff comes with full money back warranty.
when i looked for a replacement and gripforce wouldnt give me a new flywheel i called XTD to get more info. if i had to choose another cheapo flywheel it would be XTD just because of the customer service and warranty policy.
if the gripforce would have been properly manufactured it wouldnt be an issue. and truthfully if they would have just warrentied their product i wouldnt have such a beef with them. but they just told me tough luck it must be my fault
when i looked for a replacement and gripforce wouldnt give me a new flywheel i called XTD to get more info. if i had to choose another cheapo flywheel it would be XTD just because of the customer service and warranty policy.
if the gripforce would have been properly manufactured it wouldnt be an issue. and truthfully if they would have just warrentied their product i wouldnt have such a beef with them. but they just told me tough luck it must be my fault
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 267
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From: ocala fl
fidanza all the way man!
i drive the piss out of my car and have had the fidanza for roughly 20k miles and have never had an issue plus its the lightest one out for our cars(more power fing02.gif ). i know a guy who drives a 95 civic and has had one one his car for like 80k miles with no issuses and he loves it.
i drive the piss out of my car and have had the fidanza for roughly 20k miles and have never had an issue plus its the lightest one out for our cars(more power fing02.gif ). i know a guy who drives a 95 civic and has had one one his car for like 80k miles with no issuses and he loves it.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 264
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From: Atlanta
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata Turbo
i had a ebay gripforce on my tib they say 11lbs but finaly was 10lbs.... have no complain about it
but before installing it evan if it was new i did resurface it .... the surface was not that perfect
if i had to do it again i would pay for a fidanza....
the diffrence before and afther was very noticable i can't imagine what a fidanza would have done wink1.gif
but before installing it evan if it was new i did resurface it .... the surface was not that perfect
if i had to do it again i would pay for a fidanza....
the diffrence before and afther was very noticable i can't imagine what a fidanza would have done wink1.gif
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
^^ Can you tell me how many miles you have on that sucker? Has it warped? I'm really kinda swaying here between eclutchmasters and XTD. I can't afford $400 for the Fidanza flywheel.
See, here's the deal.... Stock Valeo clutch lasted 3,000 miles after I bought the car, 30,000 miles. It started grabbing, so I had the dealer replace it with a Valeo, and resurface the stock flywheel for $300. It started grabbing and slipping at 60,000 miles so I replaced it with a Valeo and resurfaced the flywheel. It started slipping under nitrous at 70,000 miles so I bought a new clutch again, this time it was SECO instead of Valeo, when replacing it, my buddy attatched the bearing to the clutch while it was off of the car, so I tried to pry it off and messed up the Pressure Plate splines. So about 3,000 miles later, I bought a new OEM flywheel and SECO clutch. When replacing the flywheel my buddy (yes, the same guy damnit) he-maned it on there and broke out the center portion of the flywheel and I didn't find out until after I reassembled the clutch, So I resurfaced the origonal flywheel again and put it back on with the same SECO clutch. This stock clutch has been resurfaced 3 times now that I know of. It needs to get replaced. I believe it is what is causing my whole car to shake (steering wheel included). I think my SECO clutch is good, but the flywheel is a piece of crap.
I believe my clutch/flywheel will last much longer this time now that I have an engine damper because I had been trying to avoid the bouncing when shifting before. That should no longer be an issue with new f/r rollstops and a damper.
I can replace a clutch/resurface on the weekend. I am not going to spend $400 on something that will last about the same as a $200 flywheel. I'm getting a stage 2 clutch of some sort, or maybe another SECO. I like the SECO it feels much better then stock. I'm really trying to figure out what the difference between the Fidanza and any other flywheel is out there. I mean, I could spend huge bucks on it and still end up resurfacing/replacing the friction surface after another 40,000 miles. What makes it such a good clutch? Every clutch feels wonderful after you first install it and I'm pretty sureyou can't feel the difference between a new $200 lighweight flywheel and a new $400 lightweight flywheel with a good clutch and pressure plate.
See, here's the deal.... Stock Valeo clutch lasted 3,000 miles after I bought the car, 30,000 miles. It started grabbing, so I had the dealer replace it with a Valeo, and resurface the stock flywheel for $300. It started grabbing and slipping at 60,000 miles so I replaced it with a Valeo and resurfaced the flywheel. It started slipping under nitrous at 70,000 miles so I bought a new clutch again, this time it was SECO instead of Valeo, when replacing it, my buddy attatched the bearing to the clutch while it was off of the car, so I tried to pry it off and messed up the Pressure Plate splines. So about 3,000 miles later, I bought a new OEM flywheel and SECO clutch. When replacing the flywheel my buddy (yes, the same guy damnit) he-maned it on there and broke out the center portion of the flywheel and I didn't find out until after I reassembled the clutch, So I resurfaced the origonal flywheel again and put it back on with the same SECO clutch. This stock clutch has been resurfaced 3 times now that I know of. It needs to get replaced. I believe it is what is causing my whole car to shake (steering wheel included). I think my SECO clutch is good, but the flywheel is a piece of crap.
I believe my clutch/flywheel will last much longer this time now that I have an engine damper because I had been trying to avoid the bouncing when shifting before. That should no longer be an issue with new f/r rollstops and a damper.
I can replace a clutch/resurface on the weekend. I am not going to spend $400 on something that will last about the same as a $200 flywheel. I'm getting a stage 2 clutch of some sort, or maybe another SECO. I like the SECO it feels much better then stock. I'm really trying to figure out what the difference between the Fidanza and any other flywheel is out there. I mean, I could spend huge bucks on it and still end up resurfacing/replacing the friction surface after another 40,000 miles. What makes it such a good clutch? Every clutch feels wonderful after you first install it and I'm pretty sureyou can't feel the difference between a new $200 lighweight flywheel and a new $400 lightweight flywheel with a good clutch and pressure plate.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 264
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From: Atlanta
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata Turbo
QUOTE (DTN @ Oct 12 2008, 10:48 AM)
^^ Can you tell me how many miles you have on that sucker? Has it warped? I'm really kinda swaying here between eclutchmasters and XTD. I can't afford $400 for the Fidanza flywheel.
See, here's the deal.... Stock Valeo clutch lasted 3,000 miles after I bought the car, 30,000 miles. It started grabbing, so I had the dealer replace it with a Valeo, and resurface the stock flywheel for $300. It started grabbing and slipping at 60,000 miles so I replaced it with a Valeo and resurfaced the flywheel. It started slipping under nitrous at 70,000 miles so I bought a new clutch again, this time it was SECO instead of Valeo, when replacing it, my buddy attatched the bearing to the clutch while it was off of the car, so I tried to pry it off and messed up the Pressure Plate splines. So about 3,000 miles later, I bought a new OEM flywheel and SECO clutch. When replacing the flywheel my buddy (yes, the same guy damnit) he-maned it on there and broke out the center portion of the flywheel and I didn't find out until after I reassembled the clutch, So I resurfaced the origonal flywheel again and put it back on with the same SECO clutch. This stock clutch has been resurfaced 3 times now that I know of. It needs to get replaced. I believe it is what is causing my whole car to shake (steering wheel included). I think my SECO clutch is good, but the flywheel is a piece of crap.
I believe my clutch/flywheel will last much longer this time now that I have an engine damper because I had been trying to avoid the bouncing when shifting before. That should no longer be an issue with new f/r rollstops and a damper.
I can replace a clutch/resurface on the weekend. I am not going to spend $400 on something that will last about the same as a $200 flywheel. I'm getting a stage 2 clutch of some sort, or maybe another SECO. I like the SECO it feels much better then stock. I'm really trying to figure out what the difference between the Fidanza and any other flywheel is out there. I mean, I could spend huge bucks on it and still end up resurfacing/replacing the friction surface after another 40,000 miles. What makes it such a good clutch? Every clutch feels wonderful after you first install it and I'm pretty sureyou can't feel the difference between a new $200 lighweight flywheel and a new $400 lightweight flywheel with a good clutch and pressure plate.
See, here's the deal.... Stock Valeo clutch lasted 3,000 miles after I bought the car, 30,000 miles. It started grabbing, so I had the dealer replace it with a Valeo, and resurface the stock flywheel for $300. It started grabbing and slipping at 60,000 miles so I replaced it with a Valeo and resurfaced the flywheel. It started slipping under nitrous at 70,000 miles so I bought a new clutch again, this time it was SECO instead of Valeo, when replacing it, my buddy attatched the bearing to the clutch while it was off of the car, so I tried to pry it off and messed up the Pressure Plate splines. So about 3,000 miles later, I bought a new OEM flywheel and SECO clutch. When replacing the flywheel my buddy (yes, the same guy damnit) he-maned it on there and broke out the center portion of the flywheel and I didn't find out until after I reassembled the clutch, So I resurfaced the origonal flywheel again and put it back on with the same SECO clutch. This stock clutch has been resurfaced 3 times now that I know of. It needs to get replaced. I believe it is what is causing my whole car to shake (steering wheel included). I think my SECO clutch is good, but the flywheel is a piece of crap.
I believe my clutch/flywheel will last much longer this time now that I have an engine damper because I had been trying to avoid the bouncing when shifting before. That should no longer be an issue with new f/r rollstops and a damper.
I can replace a clutch/resurface on the weekend. I am not going to spend $400 on something that will last about the same as a $200 flywheel. I'm getting a stage 2 clutch of some sort, or maybe another SECO. I like the SECO it feels much better then stock. I'm really trying to figure out what the difference between the Fidanza and any other flywheel is out there. I mean, I could spend huge bucks on it and still end up resurfacing/replacing the friction surface after another 40,000 miles. What makes it such a good clutch? Every clutch feels wonderful after you first install it and I'm pretty sureyou can't feel the difference between a new $200 lighweight flywheel and a new $400 lightweight flywheel with a good clutch and pressure plate.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...d=p4506.c0.m245 that's what i bought
if you don't have the money or don't want to pay for a fidanza just don't the ebay ones will do just fine i had it for over 30000+km and no complains.... why i say if i would do it again i would buy a fidanza is just to get a bit more... i trully don't know if there would be a big diffrence between a 7lbs and 10lbs .... just 3lbs is it wort it maybe i don't know but i would try it smile.gif
btw oem flywheel is 16.5lbs
for the clutch i had a exedy oem repacement and guess what it had a valeo pressure plate lol....
why not get an ACT ??
or evan have you consider the VHR clutch and flywheel kit ? i think it was john GTR ? who could have them for very cheap ?
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 98
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From: Lexington, SC
I am still rocking the ACT 6 puc unsprung clutch 50k-60k miles on it. True that alminium conducts heat better than steel, but it also expands almost twice the rate of steel. I guess my fidanza ring gear lost its memory and came off.
Read the part relating to performance vehicles
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/flywheelInstructions2.pdf
<---- the picture is of my fidanza flywheel.
I do not have beef with fidanza. I am sure there steel flywheels and clutches are dandy.
Read the part relating to performance vehicles
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/flywheelInstructions2.pdf
<---- the picture is of my fidanza flywheel.
I do not have beef with fidanza. I am sure there steel flywheels and clutches are dandy.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,735
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From: Vegas, Baby, Vegas!!!
Vehicle: '14 Ford F-150
QUOTE (eClutchmasters)
Because a 11lbs eClutchmaster light weight flywheel® has so much less rotating inertia than the stock 22-25lbs stock flywheel., it is easier on your synchros. When you downshift and do not perfectly equalize revs, your synchros must accommodate the difference in flywheel speed and input transmission speed. The lighter the flywheel the less the inertia the synchros must overcome. The longer your synchros last the longer your tranny will last because you are less likely to miss-shift and break things when your synchros are properly functioning.
Engine life is also increased by using a eClutchmaster aluminum flywheel®. Since our flywheel is so much lighter there is much less stress on the main bearings.
Engine life is also increased by using a eClutchmaster aluminum flywheel®. Since our flywheel is so much lighter there is much less stress on the main bearings.
This is a bit of marketing. In reality, a light flywheel makes your engine slow down quicker when you depress the clutch. This makes it easier to upshift because when you upshift, you want the revs to drop quickly to match the tranny's slower input shaft speed. However, when downshifting, a lightweight flywheel makes it MORE important to rev match. Because the input shaft on your tranny speeds up when you downshift and your engine slows down more due to less "flywheel effect", there's a larger difference between your input shaft speed and engine speed. This can hammer your synchros and wear your clutch if you don't rev the engine to match the tranny input shaft speed. Basically, they got it backwards... a light flywheel makes upshifts easier, but requires more driver involvement for proper downshifts.
I know that's a bit OT, but I saw the quote posted and felt the need to correct it.
DTN, regarding cost, keep in mind that an aluminum flywheel only needs to be purchased at full price once. When it wears out, you just replace the steel wear ring, which costs less (about $55).
