If it happens again, I'd look more into it because than you have a bit of a problem on your hands tongue.gif

 

I know I did have my splash shields on but one of them wasnt on right so water might have gotten on a wire and caused the problem. After I got the fuses changed it hasnt happened since; so hey it could have been anything. smile.gif

 

the same thing happend to me.....it was the lower o2 sen wire was shorting out on my exaust took them 3 days and 60$ worth of fuses to find it at the dealer and they fixed it no charge for me...I love dartmouth hyundai

 

OH SH*T!! thanks Supa, fawkin it must be it. I had extended both of my sensors, the second one to the rear. It must have been water getting into there somehow or something. FAWK. Thanks dude, though that MUST be it because that's what I f**king messed with. Grrrrrr!!!!! And my power door locks don't work sometimes!

 

The power door lock is because of a failing actuator. Happened to me 2 times.

Use some heat shrink guys.

 

Whoa, failing actuator?! What is that?! And how can you fix it?

Dood, I went to the Hyundai dealership to pick up some o-rings for the airram install. How embarassing, my car can't start. So they grab a battery and give me a jump start.

Then on my way home, my RPM's go whacko, up and down, power windows and sunroof move slow as hell, next thing you know the idle rpm drops all the way down and car shuts off, dies in the gas station as I was lucky enough to pull in. My friends grabbed an emergency battery from my house and we jumped it again. Same shit.

So I bought a new battery. What seemed like a fixed problem, became another horror when driving home, I barely got my car to my house. Engine is studdering, low power in fact so low I had to turn off my headlights and everything just to move.

REDZ, is that the fault of the actuator? And how can I fix this for good?

*I have extended 02 Sensors, HID Kit, and FAL's, but I electrical taped them really really good. Even with the fresh new battery, 1 minute of driving and the car stalls. Gauges seem fine. Power door locks still don't work. All fuses are fine. The issue is clearly a power issue. When car stalls , turn the key and there is a clicking sound but no ignition or anything just clicking.

 

Dude, electrical tape doesn't cut it.
When I extended my sensors for my headers, I soldered, heatshrinked, taped, loomed, and then zip tied them up as far as possible and kept them as tight as possible so there's no slack.

Heat shrink + loom is practically water proof, electrical tape on the other hand....use this thread as an example tongue.gif

Dude, either your terminals are wayy corroded, or your alternator is gone.

 

I think all the actutator controls is the door locks. If you get that fixed all that will work finally are your door locks.

 

the things you just listed MUST BE SOLDERED!!! if you electric tape them really good and TIGHT, you can get away with it, but i would use heatshrink still.

by the sound of it, you need a new alternator.

 

I didn't solder the wires together because I wasn't sure which ones were the right ones to the sensor (4 wires to connect) I was a dumbass and shoudl have bought an OEM sensor to extend... But my third try I got it right and it's showing readings. I used a special expensive type of electrical tape (not that plasticy stuff), a rubbery kind that you stretch really long. Then once the tape became thin and stretched, I wrapped it tightly around each wire, then once again for all four wires. It's waterproof and heat resistant, and is tucked away underneath the panel under the car. I'll have to have pics. Terminals are fine!

Everything I have touched in this car has become a problem! Either I'm retarded or I picked the wrong car to work on. $2000 to add 10 horsepower...

I read that it might be either of the two: Starter or alternator. Interior dash lights go dim right when the car is about to shut off. If you leave the car parked and running, nothing happens it just keeps idling--it's when you turn something on the car shuts off. I think it has to be the alternator because if I wait maybe 20 mins, the car starts up and runs fine for 10 mins until it starts acting up again. Also read that a bad connection could also cause a starter and alternator to fvck up. But nothing like this ever happened before. Thanks for all of your help. Let's hope it's not expensive... My parents want me to get rid of this car and buy a preowned GK and forget about hooking up cars.

I forgot to mention! Door locks would be working on and off, like a demon has posessed it so the actuators must be working. Another main problem, the seatbelt ringer would go on and off randomly, even when you were driving. This happened today too.

When I first bought the car, the stock CD player/radio lights were working. They have never worked since. If anybody knows anything about that, please assist.