Engine starts, runs well...
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
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Engine starts, runs well...
For those of you who remember the debate on FXTreme: Haltech E6K units on a DIS setup will not run sequential fuel injection because of the limited amount of ignition/fuel digital outputs. The only theoretical option was to use an RX7 toggle ignitor, set the Haltech for distributor mode and a bunch of wiring trickery in order to make it run correctly.
Since then, several other automotive groups have been able to make it work. And on Friday afternoon, we were able to borrow an RX7 trailing coil toggle ignitor and a leading coil pack. Along with another leading coilpack I bought at a junkyard and some wiring trickery, we were able to fire up the very first Tiburon to use fully sequential injection on the Haltech E6K.
Initially the engine took a few tries to get started. We had quite a few vacuum leaks (oops) and we had the ignition 180 degrees out of phase (wired the coil packs backwards -- no big deal, switch the plug wires around hehe) But even with a vacuum leak the size of my thumb, the engine cranked over and fired and started running VERY well. At that time, it wanted to idle aroune 1400RPM's because of the huge vacuum leak.
We eventually figured out the vacuum leaks and whatnot, but had problems with the thermofan PWM output relay wiring... The fans would not come on when needed. While diagnosing the problem, we blew the lower radiator hose at only 205 degrees -- oops wink It looked scary just for a second, but since the car was still on jackstands and Joel was inside fidgeting with the laptop, the engine only stayed on for about 50ms wink
After finding the problem with the lower radiator hose (uh, clamp wasn't on hahaha DOH!) and waiting for it all to cool down, the engine was started and was kept running for almost 10 minutes while we did the 1000-2000 idle break-in.
Some notes...
When it's warm and with this god-awful rich map (and who knows about the timing yet...) we can make the car idle rock-hard-steady at 650-700RPM's. When it's cold, it doesn't even RUN unless you're above 1000 wink
Forged pistons = noise... Not as much as I had conciously expected, but enough to make me worry for a minute after cold-starting it. Piston-to-wall clearances in excess of 0.005" makes wonderful piston slap noise for the first minute or so of idle. But as soon as it warms up, the damn thing idles every bit as quietly (if not moreso) than stock.
Stock ECU = not needed, period. Take into mind that I have completely ripped off almost every "feature" (cruise, power steering, A/C, the airbag system). However, every last gauge in the dash works except for fuel level. And I believe the fuel level problem is only related to our install of the pump when we clipped the ground wire (duh me) to re-route to a better/closer ground.
The car is still immobile until later today. Joel and I were able to get about 85% of the interior re-installed (after removing the dash like four times -- dammit tongue.gif ) and only need to finish with the front seats, steering wheel and the console pieces that go around the radio and shift knob.
Unfortunately, I didn't have the camera with me on the first startup... And to make it worse, I tried recording the second startup and the damned camera software didn't save the video sad.gif I'll make you guys a video of starting it today so you can check it out...
Website will be updated fairly soon with pictures, and then a larger update with wiring schematics for the toggle ignitor / coil setup (using stock coils, yay) and the rest of the Haltech trickery. I still have no information on the 3-wire ISC... I haven't given up yet tho.
Questions and comments welcome!
Since then, several other automotive groups have been able to make it work. And on Friday afternoon, we were able to borrow an RX7 trailing coil toggle ignitor and a leading coil pack. Along with another leading coilpack I bought at a junkyard and some wiring trickery, we were able to fire up the very first Tiburon to use fully sequential injection on the Haltech E6K.
Initially the engine took a few tries to get started. We had quite a few vacuum leaks (oops) and we had the ignition 180 degrees out of phase (wired the coil packs backwards -- no big deal, switch the plug wires around hehe) But even with a vacuum leak the size of my thumb, the engine cranked over and fired and started running VERY well. At that time, it wanted to idle aroune 1400RPM's because of the huge vacuum leak.
We eventually figured out the vacuum leaks and whatnot, but had problems with the thermofan PWM output relay wiring... The fans would not come on when needed. While diagnosing the problem, we blew the lower radiator hose at only 205 degrees -- oops wink It looked scary just for a second, but since the car was still on jackstands and Joel was inside fidgeting with the laptop, the engine only stayed on for about 50ms wink
After finding the problem with the lower radiator hose (uh, clamp wasn't on hahaha DOH!) and waiting for it all to cool down, the engine was started and was kept running for almost 10 minutes while we did the 1000-2000 idle break-in.
Some notes...
When it's warm and with this god-awful rich map (and who knows about the timing yet...) we can make the car idle rock-hard-steady at 650-700RPM's. When it's cold, it doesn't even RUN unless you're above 1000 wink
Forged pistons = noise... Not as much as I had conciously expected, but enough to make me worry for a minute after cold-starting it. Piston-to-wall clearances in excess of 0.005" makes wonderful piston slap noise for the first minute or so of idle. But as soon as it warms up, the damn thing idles every bit as quietly (if not moreso) than stock.
Stock ECU = not needed, period. Take into mind that I have completely ripped off almost every "feature" (cruise, power steering, A/C, the airbag system). However, every last gauge in the dash works except for fuel level. And I believe the fuel level problem is only related to our install of the pump when we clipped the ground wire (duh me) to re-route to a better/closer ground.
The car is still immobile until later today. Joel and I were able to get about 85% of the interior re-installed (after removing the dash like four times -- dammit tongue.gif ) and only need to finish with the front seats, steering wheel and the console pieces that go around the radio and shift knob.
Unfortunately, I didn't have the camera with me on the first startup... And to make it worse, I tried recording the second startup and the damned camera software didn't save the video sad.gif I'll make you guys a video of starting it today so you can check it out...
Website will be updated fairly soon with pictures, and then a larger update with wiring schematics for the toggle ignitor / coil setup (using stock coils, yay) and the rest of the Haltech trickery. I still have no information on the 3-wire ISC... I haven't given up yet tho.
Questions and comments welcome!
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Red, as long as it's all done before I come home in July on leave. You said I get to drive it. *LOL* I'll bring the Corona, you bring the lime.
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