rugby1au

Bit of background. I'm an Automotive Machinist by Trade, so modifying engines and playing with cars is not new. I like to get it in and out as quickly and as cheaply as possible.

So this is my Intake. Preface and apology. If this has been done before, "great minds think alike".
If not go do it, you wont be disappointed and it's bloody cheap.

First thing was whack a K&N in. Was impressed by the Trumpet in the air intake upper, Hyundai engineers tick a few boxes with me. I have never seen this on vehicles I've had before. Inc new Fords, Tojo's, Holden's etc.

Then I set about getting that air into the engine, lots of it and cold.
I looked at the AM air intakes avail, and even the 94-97 Honda kit got cold air, but no ram effect.

So "where did that air pipe go behind the battery, down into the front of the guard"?
What was there? Easy rip the wheel off and plastic guard and find out.
There was this box. Where is the intake? Easy rip it out. Well, once you take the plastic inner guard off it is held on with 2 x 10mm nuts. Not so fast, the tube goes into this 'box' and then out on the inner rear side and up through between the front LHS of the battery next to the radiator in behind the heat 'plastic' shield. There is a clamp here. Undo the clamp on the hose and push the hose down out of the clamp.
Tip: It's better to remove the battery altogether when undoing and redoing the clamp, it's do able in situ, but easier to remove the battery.
Tip: Got the security code for the radio?

This shield is to protect the battery and air box, nothing new here.
On top of the hose is a pipe with a curve that sits in this space and this my friend is the air intake!!

Right so lets trace the path: From in front of the battery down into this 'box' out the other side up into the inner guard, behind the battery and into the air box...PHEW!

Za hast to be a vetter vay!

So out comes the tungsten carbide hole saw. "Whats in the Box"? Lets drill some big muther holes and find out. So in I go. And I find out that this looks like a Helmholtz Resonator. More on them for another purpose later.
It has a tuned port, I get it, the air pulse comes down the pipe into the rezy and out. Used to!!
I looked at this thing and went "These Hyundai Engineers have gone to a inordinate amount of trouble to R&D and design a rezy for this car and I'm going to destroy it to use it as a .....wait for it AIR RAM INTAKE, thats right kids, this is wicked!!

So with it in place I marked out with a white marker the places for the holes to go lining up with a air path through the bottom of the bumper where there is the "Dome" etc.



I found out the location of the large air tube at the back of the box. You will need to bore into this with a hole saw so that the air can get into this easily and create a ram effect. There is a hole going into this but it's the port and not big enough.
I made an 'incision' (hehe) near where it goes out up near the RHS (OE path). Opened it up with a Dremel, tool then smoothed it off with the sanding wheel, so it's oval now and cut down the sides to the back of the box. See pic above.

Okay so now all your handy work is done with the box. Between the port and the old intake isn't much space a 20 or 30mm hole saw or a few 1/2'' drill holes is all you will get, go for it.
So get all the plastic turnings out and make sure everything lines up, nice and smooth etc.

A word on the box again. The Hundy Engers have done a great job and make this a killer mod and cheap as chips. The inside of the box is all internally braced, good job, makes it rigid, so when you drill through with the saw remember there are braces you have to go through.

This is the Eureka moment. What do I do with the old intake? Easy I now feed this into the front of the Air box as an other route the air can go. Two heads are better than one right?.
All well and good, but is it possible?

E'mm "I wonder if I can get a piece of air ducting next to the battery and cabling and heat shield.
Cripes once again those forward thinking Hundy Engers thought of us modders.
If you loosen the battery clamp 12mm? bolt you can move the battery towards the fender. Don't worry it comes up next to the tray and misses the duct and earth cable by heaps! Don't cha just love them engineers.



So what have we got? Plenty of room to put a 2 1/2" piece of air/brake ducting that will 'screw' itself into the hose next to the battery. More in a bit.

Okay If you go to your speed shop get a piece of 2 1/2" ducting 2' long. $18 AUS it cost me. Now go to a plumbing supplies? and get a plastic flange that they put in shelving when passing the waste through, to make it look better. It will have to be big enough for the duct to go inside $2.
Some duct tape. I used black duct and tape to make it look pro. A reddy brown was also avail.
Okay so loosen the + terminal and slide the starter motor cable around between the battery and airbox.
The bound up lighter cables will go out so the hose can slide in. Holds the hose snug to. (Hundy Engers)
The hole you will need to make in the air box needs to marked out carefully. You will need to cut off the flange face that mates up to the inside of the air box on one side, this will go against the bottom of the air box. The intake hole can be no higher up the side of the airbox then the step point, as the air cleaner element does not protrude down past this point, Capisco.



It just so happens the centre of the hole is across the three ribs. (H E A) Hundy Engers again.
You will need to trim the flats of the flange again to get around these ribs so that the face sits up hard against the side of the airbox so you can wind the duct tape around the flange and hose to make a seal on the outside. Place duct tape around the inside of the flange to seal it up there.
Tip: Cover the tops of the bolts once you have the air box back in place to stop air escaping. There are also two small holes in the air box to plug up with tape.

okay now pass the air duct through the port you made and trim the ducting just proud of the inside face.
The duct where it goes into the hose can be screwed in, not to hard just firm, then put duct tape around around it the lower join.
You know the original intake pipe that goes there, cut the bottom flange part off with a hacksaw about MM and slide it down over the ducting and secure it back onto the top of the hose where it was OE, cool uhh.
Now secure the hose into the box, tidy up around the battery airbox area.

Okay now place the plastic heat shield back into position. Opps cant will need to clearance it at the bottom front where the hose comes etc up. Make sure it can't touch the duct and chaf through.
Now on the engine side of the heatsheild lay some strips of 70mm FlashTac (Bear Norton ALU foil faced bitumised sound/heat deadening. You know the stuff.


Finished Article.

Tip: Put it in the wheel well and boot to cut down on the exhaust drone with extractors and sports system. More later on this.

Now where the air will now pass through the bumper and pick up the airbox you can put duct tape. This will guide the nice cold air though the bumper and into the box and only the box.
Create pressure I hope in the "Bug Catcher" HAT and force it up the two ducts into the airbox.


Job done. Now you have a ram air system using the bits the H E left for you for less than $30.00
Add a K&N, remove the TB preheat and the induction is looking good.
No worries it's quite too.

Okay but does it work you ask?
The other night I returned from checking out my suspension mods and checked the manifold temp.
The top of the manifold was warm were I placed Flash Tac to reflect the heat. Around the back of the manifold was cooler but the throttle body was........cold and WET. I couldn't believe it! My palm was cold and wet. The Airbox was cool so to was the ducting. The Intake Helmholtz Resonator near the TB was warm on the bulb, probably due to no air flow and it absorbing engine bay heat.

If you want more pics etc just email me etc and I'll send them.
The airbox is dry so is the air filter so no probs with a water soaked filter.
I've showed this to the Service Manager at the Worlds biggest selling Hyundai Dealer (here in Perth) and he likes it.

I'll post pics and details of the Helmholtz (sideband) Resonator that I made for the exhaust.

Ciao.

187sks

Sounds like quite the process, but I can't visualize it without pics. Lol.

i8acobra

Or, you can buy a used AEM intake for a '97-'01 Tiburon and use it. Only have to drill and tap one hole to make it work.

I had this AEM CAI laying around from when I had my J2 Elantra and RD Tib. Well, looking on all of the various manufacturer's sites, it seemed this intake wasn't supposed to be able to work on this car. Sixty minutes later, with some basic hand tools, a 3/16 drill bit and a 6mm x 1.0 tap... It fits. cool.gif

Pics:



The only "custom" work I had to do was to drill and tap a hole for the mount...







I also made a pipe to replace the last remaining part of the OEM intake, between the TB and MAF. I pulled the blue pipe away from the lower radiator hose too.

Pics:







I then painted the pipe with black ceramic engine paint:



Then I decided to pull the AEM and paint it too. It was kinda beat up and blue, which didn't really go with the car:



And finally, I got around to re-doing the AEM. I used the same Dupli-Color Ceramic Engine Paint. Some pics:

Prepping the intake for for paint... Sanded with 120 grit and my new tool (every mod is really just an excuse to buy a new tool, isn't it?):





I found a new use for my germ masks the Transplant Center gave me after my kidney transplant:



After the first coat:



2 coats:



I then sanded with 2000 grit and then hit it with clearcoat:



After buffing:



All done, installed and with a fresh "AEM" sticker:



I also used this opportunity to install a new AEM Dryflow filter:



With the filter right behind the driving light pocket, I could have easily made a fiberglass or sheetmetal enclosure to make this a true "ram-air" intake.

rugby1au

Excellent looks good. I'll get my a into g and post up my pics so you guys can see what I did.
Cool.
Rugby.