alice6

this is a fairly new Stage 3 Gripforce clutch. i installed it and screwed up the throw out bearing. I figured that out a little while later, so I took it all back apart and fixed it all up. it was working great again, but only while i was gentle with it. now whenever i try to shift fast at 6000RPMs into second gear it makes this godaweful grinding noise. to clarify, its not grinding going into gear, but when i drop the clutch. it sounds to me like i ruined my clutch from installing it incorrectly, thats my bad

however, i got a flat on the RF tire last week and so i put on my full size spare (tires on the car are 215/50/15, the spare is a 205/50/15) and just from the trip to the shop i found that at the same point of shifting, it would chirp instead of grind. much nicer sound to me, so i was thinking of switching back to 205's to relieve stress on the clutch. is having this wide of a tire without any significant power increases a problem?

also, i did the clutch restrictor mod. is there any other way to get this clutch to grip a bit more at higher RPMs?

DTN

that's a normal thing for tibs... the synchros, give them more time to synchronize.



you can also put some lighter weight tranny fluid in, i hear that helps a bit.

alice6

i'm planning a bunch of repair to the transmission ( bearings, seals, worn parts etc.) since i'm going to have the trans out anyway, would replaceing the syncros help at all?

DTN

ya, but they're expensive and difficult to replace. You may want to consider laying down the $600 for a new transmission

01tibby

explain how you screwed up the tob, and how long you used it like that/under what circumstances. you sure you put the new one back in right?

you did do the 500 mile break in driving right?

try to see if shifting fast at 6k 2nd-3rd makes the same noise. do so legally obviously, on an interstate with nobody around.

alice6

when i first installed the clutch it was my first time doing a pull style so i was a little confused and put the TOB on the clutch first then slid the release fork on after i got the transmission up. i got it to hook on but it was crooked and kept it from fully retracting. i noticed it was acting abnormal (severe shaking) and thats when i found out what went wrong. the TOB was a little twisted but it didn't look too bad. i twisted it back into shape and compared it to the stock one that i still had, it looked fine, spun freely and everything so i put a little grease on the part it slides on and made sure it wasn't binding, and put it all back together. also, i dunno if this has any relevance, but my transmission has GK 2.0 marked on it, is this a Beta II tranny?

i did the repair at about 1400 miles after install, and yes i did a 500 mile break in, nothing over 3k, mostly kept it under 2500 if i could help it.

i'll try third tomarrow to see if it does it there too, i'm pretty sure its not the syncros though. if i'm driving in second, put in the clutch, rev up and drop the clutch it does it then too.

01tibby

im not thinking synchros either, but that will def. rule them out.

so you are still using the previously twisted up TOB? that may be your problem right there.

LNHeart

I happen to have the same problem. Sorry for hijacking but i didnt want to start a new post with the same info. on here.

When i rev up to 6k rpm and shift to second it does that grinding noise and its on a stock clutch. Does this mean i have to change clutch?

I didnt have this problem until i just changed my axel. I put new tranny oil in it (2 1/4 qts).

This happens only in high rpms and it only does it in second gear. Is this the synchros?

alice6

Rule out syncros, mine does it when shifting into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. same sound for each gear, afterwards the clutch has a different feel, the pedal seems lighter, and if i press the clutch just enouph to eliminate the pedal free-play there is a very noticeable shake. i pulled over to see if i could spot it on the transmission but by that time it had idled enouph to go away. also, following the grinds, the clutch engages at a different position. that takes a little longer to stop than the shakes in the pedal do.

also, this only happens when i'm going straight, if i'm turned at all the inner tire will skip and no grinding. i really wanna get this fixed before the track opens, would be ambarassing to go down the track grinding every gear.

i think the bearings in the transmission are wearing down (rock sound when cold start) i don't know if thats the cause or if its completely unrelated but would rather have the info out there to help if it is relevant.

this has to be the clutch, i'm sure replacing it would fix it but i would rather try all other possible options before i go blow another $200 on a new clutch to replace my pretty new clutch. if its grinding that must mean its not clamping down enouph, which i see several possible causes

1 clutch pressure plate not tightened down enouph- since i torqued to HMA service specs i dont think this is the problem
2 faulty pressure plate, not full clamping force
3 worn components in clutch assembly. -this i think is probably most likely, the grind sounds a lot like metal to metal grinding, the first part on the clutch disk that would cause metal to metal contact would be the rivets holding on the pads. since the pads on the 6puck are so much thinner, it leads me to think that the pads on one or both sides have worn down to the rivets, metal to metal doesn't grip as well as the pads do so when they contact they slip causing a grinding sound.

that sounds right to me, what do you guys think?