I was idling high because it was cold.... it flattened out to 800-1000 (usually closer to 1000) after 10 minutes of driving....

 

I don't care if you're in deepest/coldest Alaska. 5 minutes of running is enough to warm an engine. Even at -60 below, any car I've owed would be at "normal" temp in under 5 minutes of IDLE. If you're driving, it should take even less time. So something still wrong if it took 10 minutes of idle/driving to get a normal idle.

Zoned019-
The ECU adjusts it's TPS "baseline" for 0 every time you start the car (up to 20% TPS reading). Every Hyundai TPS I've ever checked, reads about 5-10% when closed and about 15% cracked open for proper idle. I've seen as high as 19%. The TPS doesn't read "0%" at close. When you mount the TPS you have to rotate it a bit to get the screw holes to lineup. That basically sets the baseline @ closed at between 5 and 10%. Then you crack the throttle a bit, and it gets bumped up to between 8-19% depending on how high you started, and how far you had to crack the throttle for proper idle. 20% or over will set a CEL/MIL.
The only way to get the TPS to return a lower "baseline" reading is to enlarge the mounting holes in it to be oval and that way it's not rotated as much when installed. It was one of those things I always wanted to try, but never got around to.

Anyway, since the ECU adjusts each time you start the car. If your "baseline" when you first turn the car on is 14%, the ECU adjusts/modifys that as 0% or "no throttle requested", or simply subtracts 14% off any given TPS reading...not sure which it does, but it does one of the two.


Don't rule out a TPS just yet. Since the problem is intermittent, it could be the TPS (or whatever sensor) is on the way out.

Since the problem is "random"...I would check your wiring and sensor connections. Unplug and replug each sensor and make sure the wire clips are in place to hold each one on properly. Check your wiring for frays and/or heat damage/melted wiring. Check your wires where they go through the firewall to see if any wires have chaffed. look for sharp kinks in wiring that might indicate a broken wire/broken strands, etc..etc...

Lastly...check your ECU. Make sure it's properly seated in it's location and that the jumbo 9million pin connector is securely fastened to the ECU.

 

Well, I went driving around today, started up FINE
Accelerated FINE
Drove FINE. I turned off the car and started it at least 9 times today, and evey time it started up fine, idled fine and drove fine...
AHHHHHHH, =wtf?



Got it scanned...(so I was one off... lmao.gif)

P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0300 again

P0301 Misfire detected in cylinder one
P0301 again

P0302 Misfire detected in cylinder two
P0302 again

P0446 Evap

And here's the kicker
P1127 Fuel/Air Meter (either inoperative, malfunctioning, something rather)

^^I haven't looked up the daignostics on this code just yet, but it is Fuel/Air (meter) related...


Thanks again Random. Today is a bad day to start checking/working on the car, I don't have a garage and we got thunderstorms throwin hail down on us...

 

sounds like a combination of things, like maybe an 02 sensor going out and coil pack (or something spark related) dying.

let us know how it turns out!

 

^^ those were my two guesses...

Faith can you get me coil packs like I asked a long time ago?

Next on the list is replacing the o2 sensors and fuel filter/air filter. Even if it's not the problem, it needs to be done...

Maybe take out the injectors and see the condition of the intake manifold and injector positioning...

I need to figure out what to do about P1127 (Fuel/Air Meters....)???


And for the coilpacks, 1&4 and 2&3 share a spark right?

 

Random, I totally forgot. You're right.
BTW, what you're talking about, I've done it. I purchased a "bad" bbtb, and fixed it by doing what you said. I offset the TPS a bit when I stuck it on (the holes were slightly enlarged). Worked great, and I got a bbtb for $20 + shipping of a stock tb fing02.gif
Without doing this it idled way off and drove weird.


Anyway, Pat, I did a webtech search and some things you should check are your evap canister purge solenoid valve, tps, and injector wiring. I'd suggest you search it, there's lots of info on that code...it's a pretty big troubleshooting flowchart they have though. Lots of things could cause that CEL, so..good luck. lol.

 

Good luck with the P1127... I had that code twice (never came back now for like 6 months and I didnt do anything but erase the codes). If you look at webtech for P1127... it could be any sensor.

My old thread... Click Me

Well, with the purge error code, I would check that first.

 

purge error code is not causing engine to run bad.. I KNOW THAT... (but shoudl be fixed I know..)

I figured it out!!!!!!!!!!!

I asked myself what would cause the engine to run at weird rpms and bad ONLY at IDLE, WHEN THE THROTTLE IS CLOSED (like letting off the gas to stop at a red light), and WHEN PRESSING THE CLUTCH IN WITH THROTTLE CLOSED?

hmm... spark is constant throughout idle to WOT... shouldnt' be that
fuel supply doesn't change greatly from idle to WOT (besides it's running rich as a mofo, explained later...)

AIR, it's AIR
Where is the air coming from with the throttle open? The air intake tubing and then the throttle body/intake manifold

Where does it come from at IDLE, and with THROTTLE CLOSED?
IAC tubing and through the Intake Air Bypass Unit and into the Intake Manifold.
SO, something is wrong with the IAC Unit or the supplyline of air to the IAC Unit (the IAC tubing from the elbow to the IAC unit)...

Well, those of you with airrams know you HAVE to replace your IAC tubing with longer stuff in order to make it reach from the same elbow nipple to the NEW location is must be for the airram (below it)...

The piping I used is kinked. IN heat it is maleable and kinks at the bend... and when it's cold it remembers that kinked position and doesn't flex back to open. So no air is getting to the engine (barely any...) at Idle and with a closed throttle...

Problem solved, replace IAC tubing... (haven't done it yet but I KNOW that's the problem)..


ONE LAST QUESTION:
I have MISFIRE codes in cylinders 1 and 2. This IAC tubing kink couldn't cause the P0301, P0302, and P0300 (random misfire)....

could it?

I knwo my plugs and wires are good, but I'm not sure on the coilpacks...hermm....?

 

Check your wires for any damage.

About the idle bypass hose, I TOLD you about that the first time I saw your car after the airram.

LOL

 

fixed the hose, and the CEL's/misfiring went away..

so I'm good.