that would be MAF not MAS ...

Check if your MAF connections are ok, I know there was a recall about the MAF connection becoming loose because of engine vibrations ... don't know but it's pointing to the MAF, so it could be damaged or the connections could also be the problem!

 

I had vip scan the code on the way to work one morning. I was so mad I was late I didn't realize they never wrote it down. I believ it was either P1047 or P1017 not to sure though.


connections are fine. and there are no misfire codes. is there any way to test the maf and see if its faulty? and if it was bad would the car drive at all?

 

MAF circuit HIGH INPUT code is P0103 (I think ???)

As for the MAF inspection, I don't know ... try looking Webtech, I know there is a step by step MAF harness inspection but I don't know about the sensor itself!

 

that sounds like the code that they read off.

is it possible that when I extended the 2nd o2 sensor wire it could throw off the maf.

my car has 219,550 miles on it. so it is the original maf. I have cleaned it with maf cleaner no diff.


I have also noticed that after the car stalls. if I wait a couple minutes...about ten ... and then start the car it idles like crap. its not that the engine cools down but it has to be something cools. right

 

219,550 miles o_O. My 98 has 88000 miles..... Anyway, its most likely not the o2 sensor, but did you double check how it was extended? Maybe it was spliced incorectly or something easy to fix like that.

 

I've had MAF high input for a few reasons. Check out the thread I blew up my freakin' intake. You can't mess with anything inside the MAF housing, or it will mess up and give you that fault. Another thing to check is the physical connector on the side of the MAF, that will also give the same fault. Try cleaning hte MAF with MAF or Electronics Cleaner. Either one will work, they're the same thing, but MAF cleaner costs more. If all else fails, go to advanced and tell them you need a MAF for a 98 KIA Sportage 2.0L. It will save you about $100 if you need a new MAF.

 

well I checked all the connections everything fine. I decided just swap the maf with one from a 1998 elantra, exact same part everbody!!!!

as soon as I turned on the ignition. I could tell something was diff. the car idled at 1000 rpms and then dropped to an even 950.

now when I hit the gas the car doesn't bog down. . . it roars. I hate how one stupid piece can do that, but its fixed and the car drives great.

NOTE: when changing the maf. unplug the neg terminal off the batt. I did this and I had no cel.

ill have to explain how to install obx headers without getting a cel sometime... if someone hasn't already posted it.

thaks for all the help everybody

 

What kind of intake did you have on it? More particularly, what kind of filter? Oiled?

 

it was a metal mesh american racing something filter. stupid there stuff is worthless. all the sensors fit in fine but I don't believe it was the intake that did. the car was having trouble idling 6 months ago... and I didnlt take care of it in time.

on the side I will be buying a aem cold air intake in the future... can those ruin mafs?

 

^^ AEM has a dryflow filter which is amazing. It's high flow, probably the BEST flow, and there is no oil on it. You can even wash it with no problems. But a lot of people have problems with the oiled filters (K&N, Injen, etc) because the oil coats your MAF and throws CEL's. My buddy with a cobalt is fighting a never ending battle because of this. 950 is still a rather high idle though... Mine was at about 1000 when I got my car, and I've changed and cleaned everything and got it down to 750. You might want to check the gap on your plugs and maybe replace the wires. Fuel filter wouldn't be a bad idea at all at 200k+ miles.