Random's special CAI
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
(To meet the criteria of the DIY forums, I'm gonna fix this...)
Go to http://www.jcwhitney.com/, your local Auto Parts Store or your local Exhaust Shop. (JC whip me part #'s are at the bottom)
<u>Parts</u>
Approx 4 feet of Flexible 2.5" Galvanized steel exhaust tubing. (The Galv steel won't rust as easily as plain steel)
Exhaust Heat Wrap. 1 Inch wide wrap is cheapest, but the hardest to work with. 2" wide wrap is more expensive, but you will use less of it.
One Cone Intake Filter. IMPORTANT...DONT GET A BIG ONE. I've seen them over 8-9" long. That's TOO big. You need one between 4" and 6" long. The "connector" should be between 2.5" and 3". Any bigger than that and you will run into problems getting air gaps when you attach it to the hose. (APC-1 Makes a decent one for $25)
A hose clamp 2.5" if the air filter doesn't come with one
About 2 feet of metal strapping used to hang exhaust.
<u>Tools needed</u>
A hacksaw or Dremel with Cutting blade. Get a diamond one. They cost $10, but it will last throughout this job, plus many more
Drill
A drill bit for cutting steel, you need a 3/4" hole (or use dremel above.)
A Razor blade cutter (or use dremel above)
Regular screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
10MM socket
12 mm Socket
Socket driver.
<u>The Dyno Proof</u>
<u>Instructions</u>
Remove the stock resonator (upper and lower)
DIY = Resonator Removal
Remove the stock airbox. (leave the rubber corrugated connector on the MAFS).
Remove the rubber grommet from the stock airbox for the intake air temp sensor
Jack the car up and put it on Jack stands (unless you are really skinny!)
Remove the plastic panel that separates the engine compartment from the fender well. (It is held in place by 4-5 bolts.) 3 at the nose of the car and 2 near the front suspension mounting point)
Take your flex exh tubing and bend it to a 90 degree angle about 1 foot out from the end. Have it go straight down.
Then bent it to your Right 90 degrees about another foot down.
You should now have 2 bends in it, one down, one right.
It should look something like this.
Lower the end of the exhaust tubing down and connect the upper end to the Flexible rubber bit on the end of the MAFS.
Remove the "nose" of the front wheel liner. You don't have to detach the whole thing, just the "nose" end. (2 screws)
Place the air filter inside the front fender well
Now bend that exhaust tube close to the filter. Don't have the filter rub on the inside of the fender, or the wheel portion of the fender well. You just want it in that airspace.
Mark the exhaust tubing where you want to cut it. Rather too long than too short. You want it to end about 3-4 inches from the metal curve
Remove the exhaust tubing
Cut at mark.
Re-attach and size it up again. If it looks too long, cut it shorter. The pic above is about 2-3" too long.
Using the short cut off end of exhaust tube, draw a circle on your plastic engine liner. There is a "curve" on one edge of this liner (sorry I don't have any decent photos of this) You should do this right up next to the curve. See photo below. That is where the curve is, you want your tube near that so that it will fit in the hole into the fenderwell
Cut the hole, and trim it. Verify that that tubing will fit through there. Make it a bit larger as heat wrap needs to clear hole too!
Now re install the plastic engine shield.
Bend the Tubing to fit through the hole, and then reattach it to the flexible MAFS hosing to verify fit and bends. Test fit the air filter to make sure it is in the right spot and not rubbing anything.
Remove air filter.
Remove Tubing WITHOUT BENDING IT OUT OF PLACE (as much as possible)
Drill 3/4" hole about 3-4 inches down from Rubber connector.
Install rubber grommet and test fit with Intake air Temp Sensor. You want the IAT sensor to fit in the hole snugly, with no gaps.
Leave the IAT sensor in hole, and leave the grommet in.
Now let's get to the Heat wrap.
Wet heat wrap. Just get it damp, not soaking wet
Wrap tubing with Heat wrap by starting at MAFS end and wrap. leave 1" at top end for connecting to MAFS.
Wrap around/over the rubber grommet and IAT sensor, but leave connector exposed.
Wrap all but bottom 1" for connecting to Air Filter.
You can keep the heat wrap on with Zip ties or wire
The wrap job should overlap about 1/4 inch.
Re-Install the tubing by putting it through the hole carefully so as not to upset the heat wrap.
Attach the tubing to the MAFS connector.
Attach air filter to end of CAI.
If filter is pressing hard on plastic fender well liner, use metal strapping to hold it up. I used the bolt that holds the horn as a handy hanger point.
Re attach nose of fender well liner.
Jack up car and remove jack stands.
Lower car.
Drive away and enjoy better throttle response, better mileage and MUCH more power.
The fun "snarl" the engine makes by using the fender well as a resonator is pure bonus!!!
If you want bigger photos (CLICK ON THE PICTURES).
If you have any questions, e-mail me. ( random@hyundaiaftermarket.com )
Here are the part numbers to order from JC Whitney.
20ZX0250X 56" Bendable Replacement Pipe, 2-1/2" OD Each 22.49
71ZX1303A Insulating Wrap for Headers & Exhaust, 1" Wide X 50-Ft. Length 1-Roll 23.95
71ZX1304R Insulating Wrap for Headers & Exhaust, 2" Wide X 50-Ft. Length 1-Roll 35.95
Here are some photos of the Random Special CAI installed.
(This post was compiled and edited from the data at the above link from Pare_John, credit goes to Random of Hyundaiaftermarket.com , Please PM me if there are any missing or broken links, or info needs to be updated [Maybe you have new pics])
EDIT: Edited to move some pictures down a line, now you don't have to scroll right.
Go to http://www.jcwhitney.com/, your local Auto Parts Store or your local Exhaust Shop. (JC whip me part #'s are at the bottom)
<u>Parts</u>
Approx 4 feet of Flexible 2.5" Galvanized steel exhaust tubing. (The Galv steel won't rust as easily as plain steel)
Exhaust Heat Wrap. 1 Inch wide wrap is cheapest, but the hardest to work with. 2" wide wrap is more expensive, but you will use less of it.
One Cone Intake Filter. IMPORTANT...DONT GET A BIG ONE. I've seen them over 8-9" long. That's TOO big. You need one between 4" and 6" long. The "connector" should be between 2.5" and 3". Any bigger than that and you will run into problems getting air gaps when you attach it to the hose. (APC-1 Makes a decent one for $25)
A hose clamp 2.5" if the air filter doesn't come with one
About 2 feet of metal strapping used to hang exhaust.
<u>Tools needed</u>
A hacksaw or Dremel with Cutting blade. Get a diamond one. They cost $10, but it will last throughout this job, plus many more
Drill
A drill bit for cutting steel, you need a 3/4" hole (or use dremel above.)
A Razor blade cutter (or use dremel above)
Regular screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
10MM socket
12 mm Socket
Socket driver.
<u>The Dyno Proof</u>
<u>Instructions</u>
Remove the stock resonator (upper and lower)
DIY = Resonator Removal
Remove the stock airbox. (leave the rubber corrugated connector on the MAFS).
Remove the rubber grommet from the stock airbox for the intake air temp sensor
Jack the car up and put it on Jack stands (unless you are really skinny!)
Remove the plastic panel that separates the engine compartment from the fender well. (It is held in place by 4-5 bolts.) 3 at the nose of the car and 2 near the front suspension mounting point)
Take your flex exh tubing and bend it to a 90 degree angle about 1 foot out from the end. Have it go straight down.
Then bent it to your Right 90 degrees about another foot down.
You should now have 2 bends in it, one down, one right.
It should look something like this.
Lower the end of the exhaust tubing down and connect the upper end to the Flexible rubber bit on the end of the MAFS.
Remove the "nose" of the front wheel liner. You don't have to detach the whole thing, just the "nose" end. (2 screws)
Place the air filter inside the front fender well
Now bend that exhaust tube close to the filter. Don't have the filter rub on the inside of the fender, or the wheel portion of the fender well. You just want it in that airspace.
Mark the exhaust tubing where you want to cut it. Rather too long than too short. You want it to end about 3-4 inches from the metal curve
Remove the exhaust tubing
Cut at mark.
Re-attach and size it up again. If it looks too long, cut it shorter. The pic above is about 2-3" too long.
Using the short cut off end of exhaust tube, draw a circle on your plastic engine liner. There is a "curve" on one edge of this liner (sorry I don't have any decent photos of this) You should do this right up next to the curve. See photo below. That is where the curve is, you want your tube near that so that it will fit in the hole into the fenderwell
Cut the hole, and trim it. Verify that that tubing will fit through there. Make it a bit larger as heat wrap needs to clear hole too!
Now re install the plastic engine shield.
Bend the Tubing to fit through the hole, and then reattach it to the flexible MAFS hosing to verify fit and bends. Test fit the air filter to make sure it is in the right spot and not rubbing anything.
Remove air filter.
Remove Tubing WITHOUT BENDING IT OUT OF PLACE (as much as possible)
Drill 3/4" hole about 3-4 inches down from Rubber connector.
Install rubber grommet and test fit with Intake air Temp Sensor. You want the IAT sensor to fit in the hole snugly, with no gaps.
Leave the IAT sensor in hole, and leave the grommet in.
Now let's get to the Heat wrap.
Wet heat wrap. Just get it damp, not soaking wet
Wrap tubing with Heat wrap by starting at MAFS end and wrap. leave 1" at top end for connecting to MAFS.
Wrap around/over the rubber grommet and IAT sensor, but leave connector exposed.
Wrap all but bottom 1" for connecting to Air Filter.
You can keep the heat wrap on with Zip ties or wire
The wrap job should overlap about 1/4 inch.
Re-Install the tubing by putting it through the hole carefully so as not to upset the heat wrap.
Attach the tubing to the MAFS connector.
Attach air filter to end of CAI.
If filter is pressing hard on plastic fender well liner, use metal strapping to hold it up. I used the bolt that holds the horn as a handy hanger point.
Re attach nose of fender well liner.
Jack up car and remove jack stands.
Lower car.
Drive away and enjoy better throttle response, better mileage and MUCH more power.
The fun "snarl" the engine makes by using the fender well as a resonator is pure bonus!!!
If you want bigger photos (CLICK ON THE PICTURES).
If you have any questions, e-mail me. ( random@hyundaiaftermarket.com )
Here are the part numbers to order from JC Whitney.
20ZX0250X 56" Bendable Replacement Pipe, 2-1/2" OD Each 22.49
71ZX1303A Insulating Wrap for Headers & Exhaust, 1" Wide X 50-Ft. Length 1-Roll 23.95
71ZX1304R Insulating Wrap for Headers & Exhaust, 2" Wide X 50-Ft. Length 1-Roll 35.95
Here are some photos of the Random Special CAI installed.
(This post was compiled and edited from the data at the above link from Pare_John, credit goes to Random of Hyundaiaftermarket.com , Please PM me if there are any missing or broken links, or info needs to be updated [Maybe you have new pics])
EDIT: Edited to move some pictures down a line, now you don't have to scroll right.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,041
Likes: 0
From: SOUTH Jersey
I am not doubting anybody here or anywhere else about CAIs.. but why the heat wrap? I have a DIY CAI that runs down into a hole where the battery used to be and it is made of a good galvinised steel and painted. The other day (it was about 90 degrees out) I popped the hood after running in stop and go traffic.. and while I do not have a much more precision pyrometer than my hand.. the steel was cool to the touch.. it did not soak any heat from the engine compartment at all. I do imagine that using flex pipe is different, that stuff is MUCH thinner than my almost scheadule forty stuff and would warm up.. but I have found that the air running through the pipe is cool enough that the pipe never has a chance to heat up and wake it a WAI.
BTW.. great job on this DIY.. It is nice for people to see that they do not need to spend a fortune to mod their cars. It might not win any points at a show.. but for a car made to be driven.. who cares?
BTW.. great job on this DIY.. It is nice for people to see that they do not need to spend a fortune to mod their cars. It might not win any points at a show.. but for a car made to be driven.. who cares?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
The heat wrap keeps the CAI tube cooler. Cooler tube = cooler air temps. Cooler air = more air. More air = more power.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,063
Likes: 0
From: Clovis, NM
Vehicle: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad-Machine)</div><div class='quotemain'>I am not doubting anybody here or anywhere else about CAIs.. but why the heat wrap?</div>
I am down here in Florida and my CAI tube is always hot, even if I only drive a short distance. I guess it has to do with your geographic location. I found a heatblanket at Jegs that I will be ordering. It laces on, looks really good.
I am down here in Florida and my CAI tube is always hot, even if I only drive a short distance. I guess it has to do with your geographic location. I found a heatblanket at Jegs that I will be ordering. It laces on, looks really good.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,063
Likes: 0
From: Clovis, NM
Vehicle: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Here's the link... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/Pro...527&prmenbr=361
It's only $42.99 also, I think this is cheaper than good heat wrap tape. The benefit is, it can be removed for shows.
"Keep induction air cool with this unique lace up tube cover. The design of the cover allows it to fit from 2-1/2'' to 4'' air tubes up to 36'' long. The lace on heat shield blocks over 98% of the radiant heat from the turbo and exhaust. the kit comes complete with four different color laces, blue, yellow, red and white."
It's only $42.99 also, I think this is cheaper than good heat wrap tape. The benefit is, it can be removed for shows.
"Keep induction air cool with this unique lace up tube cover. The design of the cover allows it to fit from 2-1/2'' to 4'' air tubes up to 36'' long. The lace on heat shield blocks over 98% of the radiant heat from the turbo and exhaust. the kit comes complete with four different color laces, blue, yellow, red and white."
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Damn, that's a good freaking idea man!
Good find. Let me know how it turns out, I may get one.
Sorta reminds me of them lace up stockings... Heh heh...
Good find. Let me know how it turns out, I may get one.
Sorta reminds me of them lace up stockings... Heh heh...
