Wooooott!!!!!!

Now that school is done, I finally had time to go out and fix some problems. I was having a jerking problem with the ECU. I thought it might have been a loose wire or something with my "temporary" wire taps. I also noticed in the instructions about the shielding for the wires. But I didn't think it would be that big of a deal. Yea, go figure. I had all the wires zip tied neatly together to run under the dash. But that turned out to cause problems. The high current wires were transfering current over to the signal wires and causing interference. Once I seperated them and wrapped the high current ones with aluminum foil, the jerking dissapeared. The car runs great and very smooth.
Now that things are a little more organized, I can easily see the wiring again. lol So if you have any questions still, let me know.

Also, since my laptop got stepped on by a friend, I had to move my desktop outside, which means I now have the file on this computer. So if you need it, just send me your emails again.

 

might as well grab it from you. ericy321@aol.com

also, please just go double check that your wires are how you have in the other post if you get a chance. and also, which wires should be shielded and did you just shield them up to the ecu?

 

The smaller "Install Manual" says what to shield. It's the high current wires: power, ground, ignition, and injector wires. The signals, temp, crank, map, etc. all need to be seperated from those.

Ok, there IS one change in the wiring diagram that isn't very clear. The #1 GND wire MUST get grounded to the negative battery terminal. It can't just be on the chassis. Don't know why, I'm not an electrician, but it was what held me back before. It's not even stated clearly in the wiring diagram in the manual, but it is there. The rest of the grounds can be grounded to the chassis.

I'll fix the diagram later.

 

ill shield those off then i suppose. not looking forward to it but i dont have much of a choice i guess. i hope this damn thing runs soon

 

If you run the wires like the diagram says, and with the black wire to your negative battery terminal, then it will run using my file.
Remember, it's for 440's, 43psi, and a 3 bar GM map.

If your injectors are bigger/smaller, then you can go into the general settings and slide one of the bars over to scale the whole fuel map to fit your injectors.



***Edit: I edited the wiring diagram image. I gave it more clarification for the ground wires, and taking #1 GND to the battery terminal.

 

I've been following this thread very attently, and i'm glad you got it running. Great job Ussually it is something minor like that.

 

I got the ignition hooked up and running!!!

This is really wierd though. Both Tim and Dave have there's set up like this:

PRS Pin #23 (F1) controls cylinder 1 and 4 (Hyundai ECU PIN # 25)
PRS Pin #11 (F2) controls cylinder 2 and 3 (Hyundai ECU PIN # 52)
And the PRS ignition assignments in the program set up as Ign #1=1 and Ign #2=2.

When I hooked it up like that, I got nothing. But, when I went into the PRS program and switched the output options around, it fired right up.

So I hooked up the wiring the same way, but used the programs setting to swap the firing order.
Here's how it looks in the program:


You see, #1 = 2, and #2 = 1.

And btw, I also have a MSD box which acts as an ignitor. You'll need some kind of ignitor.

 

Ignitor for what? Spark? I have mine on stock wiring and its fine. More spark than I had originally. Im hoping I can get my starter problems figured out because mine was ready to run and then I had no cranking.

 

Ericy321 do you have yours running off of the PRS with out using an ignitor? And Jon how do you figure out to switch your 1 and 2 on your ignition outputs? Thats like 180 degree timing change. I restarted my install on this, again, about 3 weeks ago. I am talking directly with PRS and getting there help on why I can't get mine to work on my Tib.

 

Mines not running. Do you have any maps that were sent by tim or jon? if you have them could you email them to me? my laptop crashed and i need the maps to get it running.

mine wasnt running but had the injector pulse all good and the spark was strong as hell. I didnt have the fuel pump working though and now the whole thing wont even crank.

Does anyone know what needs to be done (if anything) to run low impedance injectors?