Mold For Repeatable F/g Parts Diy *file 11/26/05*
I do not claim this to be mine. This is from some lesson/seminar JL Audio had a few years ago. I just thought I'd post it because one or two people might find it interesting. Here goes...
JLAudio MERA 2002.pdf
1.7MB and 47 pages long
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EDIT By REDZMAN.
Here's their latest.
JLAudio MERA 2003.pdf
JLAudio MERA 2002.pdf
1.7MB and 47 pages long
wave.gif
EDIT By REDZMAN.
Here's their latest.
JLAudio MERA 2003.pdf
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Very nice mang. I uploaded it to the site on your post so it wouldn't get lost if you die or something.
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I always hesitated using plaster to make my molds, because plaster tends to be one of those one time usage. But seeing how the used the hemp (mmmm...hemp) to reinforce it, I think using plaster these days is probably the best and inexpensive solution to make female molds.
So what would an individual use this for? It seems very useful if you want to reproduce a number of the exact same items, but I guess all my fabrications are one time deals.
Here's an interesting thread on making a rubber mold for casting parts.
Here's an interesting thread on making a rubber mold for casting parts.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (fonseca @ Jun 26 2005, 10:05 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>So what would an individual use this for? It seems very useful if you want to reproduce a number of the exact same items, but I guess all my fabrications are one time deals.
Here's an interesting thread on making a rubber mold for casting parts.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
?!?!?!?
Making a mold isn't JUST for reproducing. Say you wanted to make the front bumper, hood and side fenders one lightweight piece. The best way to do this is to first fill in all the cracks, make sure everything's nice and smooth. Say you decide to copy the DIY ^^^ by building a mold out of plaster. After you create the female mold, the best way to create a stiff and exceptionally lightweight piece is by vacuum forming.
You start a wet lay up of 1 layer of carbon fiber (more weaves = more stronger, but also a lot harder to work with), pour your resin in. Then you get you layup your core material (like a nomex/aluminum/kevlar honeycomb or something cheap, like balsa wood, poly vinyl foam, Corecell, etc). The core is there to ensure strength without adding several layers of C/F. Then the last step is to add another layer of C/F to seal everything up.
Next, you throw the entire mold, with the work piece, into a large vacuum bag. A vacuum bag is nothing more than a resilient, clear plastic bag (no holes) that you use to seal up your piece in. After sealing everything up, you should have a nozzle protruding from the bag, which hooks up to a vacuum (if you're poor, you can use a shop vac). The purpose of vacuum bagging is to remove excess resin (reducing weight), and to make sure the resin distributes itself across the workpiece. Even distribution of resin on your composites means you'll have a stronger piece. Some people will throw everything into an oven, and heat everything up. This can improve the strength of the composite work piece even more.
I thought I had a DIY fiberglass thread somewhere..or is it not on this board?
Here's an interesting thread on making a rubber mold for casting parts.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
?!?!?!?
Making a mold isn't JUST for reproducing. Say you wanted to make the front bumper, hood and side fenders one lightweight piece. The best way to do this is to first fill in all the cracks, make sure everything's nice and smooth. Say you decide to copy the DIY ^^^ by building a mold out of plaster. After you create the female mold, the best way to create a stiff and exceptionally lightweight piece is by vacuum forming.
You start a wet lay up of 1 layer of carbon fiber (more weaves = more stronger, but also a lot harder to work with), pour your resin in. Then you get you layup your core material (like a nomex/aluminum/kevlar honeycomb or something cheap, like balsa wood, poly vinyl foam, Corecell, etc). The core is there to ensure strength without adding several layers of C/F. Then the last step is to add another layer of C/F to seal everything up.
Next, you throw the entire mold, with the work piece, into a large vacuum bag. A vacuum bag is nothing more than a resilient, clear plastic bag (no holes) that you use to seal up your piece in. After sealing everything up, you should have a nozzle protruding from the bag, which hooks up to a vacuum (if you're poor, you can use a shop vac). The purpose of vacuum bagging is to remove excess resin (reducing weight), and to make sure the resin distributes itself across the workpiece. Even distribution of resin on your composites means you'll have a stronger piece. Some people will throw everything into an oven, and heat everything up. This can improve the strength of the composite work piece even more.
I thought I had a DIY fiberglass thread somewhere..or is it not on this board?
Artic, no fiberglass DIY from you on this board. Hurry up and get it on here! Meanwhile, those of you looking for a fiberglass DIY go here... http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=6177
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
File download link updated, good to go now, also added a new DIY they have on the site, working with foam for shaping panels and such.


