I really dont think that it'll reduce the airflow that much in all honesty. I mean yeah I'll lose some but the inlet and outlet pipes are 2", the CAI I am using is 3".. The blades dont really effect airflow because I have blown air through there with my mouth with the blade in and out and it didnt seem to restrict any worse than before the blade was in..

OK, the boost point is a very open question. Too early and the engine may stall and too late and it might not do bugger all. The switch itself will be on the cable disc of the throttle body, so will need to be set accordingly. Same goes for the ammount of time it needs to spin up to give off maximum boost, again not sure that will all need to be tuned as and when smile.gif

Of course doing that will be really bloody easy, I will just have the push button in my hand and press it at random RPMS on the tach and see where it is most effective smile.gif letting go will stop the boost. Again I'll be able to see where it rounds out..

As for the inverter DTN? yeah shes an animal lol.. Actually I dont need a 2000w one because the motor is 1000w so I am getting this one @ $79.

http://www.theinverterstore.com/the-invert...?model=pwrb1000

To restric drain on the battery I will be using a 1 farad cap in between the battery and the inverter to store power for 'short bursts' the same as it works for an amplifier, or three haha.gif

So $150 for that lot, Im in around $20 ATM and the belt and flywheels are $23.

Money isnt the issue, it's getting to my mate's place to use the drill press and large drillbits, My tib's battery is fookin dead again and Art's bimmer couldnt get it running. Mind you it's all pointless seeing as I cant even drive right now 02.gif



^^ drool laugh.gif

 

Hey mang, I've got some of those high powered motors I was talking about before.

I've got two 130V 5.7A 20,000RPM continuous duty cycle motors, and 1 115V 9A 25,000RPM. I gaurantee they will provide the power you need. I've got them just laying around now.





<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Pandy @ Jul 16 2007, 07:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>To restric drain on the battery I will be using a 1 farad cap in between the battery and the inverter to store power for 'short bursts' the same as it works for an amplifier, or three haha.gif</div>

Caps don't work like that though. When you install a cap, it becomes part of the electrical system. One wire goes to hot, the other to ground. Basically, anything on the electrical system can pull from the cap.

 

^^^^
Which is exactly how he plans on it working...

 

I don't think it's gonna work for you, the motor your using will spin 18,000 rpm with no load and maybe can output about 1/10 of a horsepower, the way you have it geared it will take alot more than that, in order to spin the compressor and actually compress air to any psi it will be under a major load and I bet that motor will overheat and burn the brushes out. Your best bet to get it working would be to mount it to your engine and use a pulley off the crank, your halfway there and it will work that way.

 

isnt this the same thing as the electric supercharger on ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Racing-Electric-Superch...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

haa reminds me of the tornado

 

TKT had been working on his design since the 70's, and he just released it after all this time.

tkt used 3 electric motors tied into one, but keep in mind, it takes at least 3 batteries to even power the TKT one.

based off what tkt has done, and what i know, i highly doubt what your doing will actually work, but cant wait till you finish it up, cause id love to be proved wrong in this situation. definitly a fun project though. i see it blowing alot of air, but that doesnt create absolut pressure is my thought. looks like a higher teck boat bilge pump set up.

 

^^+1 i agree but pandy has been workin so hard on this fun lil side job, that i really want it to work. i do think you will need bigget motors though