Diy: Ms-ii Extra Standalone Ecu
05-17-2009, 02:51 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon
THIS IS NOT COMPLETE. After all that typing I need to post this before I lose it. I'll update it within a week or two once I have pics, and patience.
Figured I'd make a new thread since FunkyPC's diy is MS-I related. I'd like to thank funkypc as his DIY is what gave me the confidence to go ahead and do this on my own rather than waiting around for someone else to do it first (KFX has just shipped their units as of this post time). Also, this DIY is to run MS as full standalone, not fuel OR spark as in funkypc's thread.
I'd like to mention that this is a lot of work, especially since I did this alone. You CAN do it yourself, but know that it takes a lot of time, reading, and patience, to get it up working properly. If you've never touched a soldering iron before, and don't have a decent unit with adjustable temp control, this probably isn't for you, and I'd recommend a KFX kit. I did this myself because I wanted to, because I enjoy learning, and taking on extremely difficult tasks. I wanted to know EVERYTHING involved with megasquirt, and I think I got that for the most part (definitely learned more than I wanted to). If you buy a KFX kit and something breaks down the road, you're kind of screwed, you'll have to send the ECU back. I want to be able to know exactly what my problems are. For me to make this, probably took about a solid 60 hours of work and research. For you to do this with this DIY, I'd imagine you're looking at 15-30 hours of work and reading depending on your proficiency with electronics and a soldering iron. If you do this build my way, you'll end up with an amazing product for a decent price, but you'll have to invest a lot of time into it. KFX's kit may cost more, but everything is done for you. Even so I'd still add the GM IAT sensor to your kit. Just depends what your time is worth to you.
Some background on Megasquirt first; Megasquirt has been around for about 6 years, and was created by Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo (Bowling and Grippo). They designed it as a DIY electronic fuel injection computer. They created several revisions of the MS-I assembly, the most popular being version 3.0 (there is a v3.57 however the v3 is the best board to use as it is more 'mod friendly'). It was a great system, however it had alot of limitations. Some other guys came along and created MSNS (Megasquirt'n'Spark), also known as MS extra. MS Extra was basically a group of mods to the hardware, firmware, and software of the original Megasquirt. These mods allowed MS to be used for a broader scope of applications, including the ability to run our tibby's as a full standalone. It introduced support for more toothed wheels (including our 60-2 crank wheel), as well as wasted spark ignition which the tib uses. It also introduced higher fuel table resolution.
Up until this point, everything was DIY. You purchased all of your components from a distributor, made your own case and all. All part #'s are given in the megamanual, so you can go to digikey.com and buy all of the parts yourself if you like. Or you could buy a kit from another distributor which already had some things pre-done (case comes precut, board is pretrimmed with heatsink mounted, etc).
Bowling and Grippo eventually released MS-II. It is simply an upgrade for MS-I. The install is very easy; simply remove the 40-pin chip from the socket on the MS-I board, and replace it with the MS-II daughterboard. It is sold as a complete board. The only mod required to the MS-I is to run +12v to JS9 (pin 16 on the socket) on the bottom of the MS-I board. MS-II uses a faster processor, more memory and allows even greater functionality (stepper motor outputs, higher resolution fuel tables, etc). However once again it did not include some of the base functionality that MSnS had. Eventually MS-II Extra came along to fill the void. So it is a combination of MS-II and MS-II Extra that this DIY consists of.
Today you can buy a kit and build it, or you can purchase everything pre-assembled and save yourself 2-10 hours of your time. First thing you'll need is the MS-I kit, along with the MS-II daughterboard. www.diyautotune.com is your friend! They have the best service I've ever seen, from any company, ever. I didn't buy my MS-I from them, and they actually took the time to look at the pics of the mods on my MS as I bought it, explained what the mods were to me, and gave me more suggestions and info, even though it didn't involve purchasing from them. Amazing company. Matt is also probably the most helpful person at msefi.com, and if you do a search you'll see they've always had customer service next to none. He helped me with my build when I was at a complete standstill and got me going again.
You'll also need a PWM Idle valve modkit, 2 x Bosch BIP373 coil driver modkits (probably only need 1 but replace the existing coil driver with this better one to be safe for $8).
Other things you'll probably want include boost control modkit and boost solenoid (control boost with the MS), MapDaddy map sensor (it's a 4bar map sensor, and includes realtime barometric correction). GM open element IAT sensor w/ connector, and a stainless or aluminum weld on bung (so you don't have to deal with boost leaks out your existing rubber grommet IAT sensor). I'd also recommend picking up a jimstim 1.4. It will come in VERY handy to test your MS during the assembly process, if you unit doesnt work, or you want to use it for testing.
Now also order a 35-40 ohm, 50 watt resistor, and a few 1n0002 diodes. They aren't included in the kits, but I bet if you email DIYautotune they'll hook you up, or you can order them from digikey.com. 2x Female DB-37 connectors, wiring. A couple of 1k, 10k, and 100k resistors (just in case). I don't recommend the DIYautotune harness because #1 we only need a foot of wire, and 2 it doesn't have wires in all the holes we want. My unit actually has a seperate DB-9 connector attached to the case for extra circuits, so you don't have to run wires into the case. I'd recommend finding a male ECU plug (the ECU connector, not the harness connector), and make a plug and play unit rather than cutting wires and connecting them to the new MS harness, but thats just me.
http://www.megamanual.com & http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra are your bibles for this project. Bookmark them, make them your homepage, read and read and read some more. The megamanual is written by Bowling and Grippo. Also download the MS software package here. http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm
Assemble your MS-I as per the instructions in the megamanual. As you read through the assembly guide you'll see that you can omit alot of the parts. I wouldn't recommend omitting anything at this point, unless you're sure you don't need it. However, here are things that I recommend you DO NOT install because you'll have to remove them later if you do, as the MS-II Extra mods will require it.
Do not install Q4, Q20, R34, R37, R38, D8, R57, R43, Q16 (only if you purchased 2 BIP373's), the standard map sensor (if you're upgrading to the 4bar mapdaddy). That's what I can think of off the top of my head, there may be other pieces you'll have to modify or remove once you get into the MS-II extra mods. Keep these pieces, as you may use them later on (especially Q4 and Q20).
As you go through the assembly process you'll need to make choices about your setup. You'll need to know that our cars use a VR sensor, not a hall sensor, on a 60-2 toothed wheel. We are using 4 cylinder wasted spark ignition, and are driving the coils directly with the BIP373 transistors. Install the 4 bar map sensor as per the instructions here. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ion-p-117.html
Note that even though we are not using the stepper motor outputs, you should still supply 12V to the MS-II board to keep the chip cooler (instructions are in the following link - read the next part).
I'd recommend testing your MS as you go, as described in the MS assembly guide. I purchased my unit used, so it was already built and working, however before making any modifications to it I tested it with the Jimstim 1.4 stimulator, and it worked great. Instructions on how to load MS-II firmware are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...n.htm#req_mods . Note; jumper 12V to the MS-II as described on this page. A reminder that once this jumper is in place, DO NOT go back to MS-I without removing the jumper... Not that you should ever have to, however if you decide to sell it or whatever, remove it.
So hopefully at this point you have a working MS-II unit, with MS-II Extra firmware. You're about 1/3 of the way there! Now time to do some mods! Hopefully by now you've picked up some decent soldering skills, and you know how to read a schematic. You should start with the basic stuff necessary to run our cars stock. Lets start with the wasted spark mod.
Jumper VrOut to Tsel. Jumper TachSelect to VrIn. Then follow the instructions here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...ion.htm#2coils to correctly assemble our wasted spark setup. Note that we are using BIP373's where they say to use VB921's, as they have higher current capacity and are more rugged. Using the V3 board helps us once we start to add mods, as it has a proto area we can use to mount our extras. As you go you'll read instructions to remove pieces, however if you've followed my instructions some of these will already be removed, however you'll have to install mods/jumpers as the instructions in the specific hardware manuals.
So now you should have it setup for wasted spark. If you had a harness made up you could go and hook it up to your car right now and run it, however I wouldn't recommend it. Lets setup idle control next.
We have a Bosch 3-Wire PWM idle valve. The stock ECU controls this by pulsing two wires to ground, one wire opens and one wire closes the valve (the third wire is 12V). To control this with MS, you have to do a physical mod to the wiring of the car (it is actually possible to do it IN the MS box, however thats more than I was willing to take on. I'm curious how KFX did it). The instructions are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...nual.html#idle . We're actually providing constant power to the close function of the valve, however through a resistor. This way the valve is always 'closing' but it's only receiving half the voltage it normally would. When MS wants to open it, it applies full 12v to the open 'side' of the valve, which overpowers the close signal, and opens the valve. You can hook up the valve so it's always open or always closed, and MS can close or open it. I chose to keep it always closed so MS doesn't have to work so hard (ie: the TIP122 will stay cooler).
Our stock ECU controls when the rad fan and A/C fans kick on, as well the the stock tachometer gauge. MS has extra outputs for porposes just like this. Programmable outputs for almost any function; http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...re.htm#outputs . This is where we'll use those 2n2222 transistors that we didn't install earlier in the build. This is also why I told you to pick up some extra resistors and diodes.
For the rad fan, simply install the circuit shown in the Programmable Outputs section (see the last link I posted). I removed my A/C, so I can't say how it works with MS (I don't really know the inner workings of Air Conditoning), however I assume it is similar to the rad fan. You may also have to use a programmable INPUT on the A/C switch. Briefly checking the pinout at the ECU connector, there are 3 wires for A/C; Condensor Fan Relay Control, A/C Relay Control, and A/C Pressure Switch. I'm assuming the A/C pressure switch triggers the A/C relay (I'm sure someone more familiar with A/C could help us out). I can figure it out later when I'm done the build on my car.
For the tacho out, install this circuit; http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...e.htm#tachoout .
Use the first diagram, not the 2nd, we don't need a variable resistor in line with the tach. A 1k resistor worked for me.
If you've gotten those up and running, then you're ready for the last, and most difficult mod (for me, anyway), which is the boost control circuit. You'll have to drill a hole and mount your FET on the MS case. (see pic).
Instructions are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...ware.htm#boost . Note the diyautoune solenoid runs on a frequency of 19.5-40Hz, you'll need that info for megatune. You'll have to run a wire from the ECU connector to your boost solenoid (this will be ground), and then a fused 12V to the other wire on the solenoid. Polarity doesn't matter on the solenoid.
*********BREAK******
Pin 7-19 (ground) on the MS to pin 6, 28, 34, 55 (all grounds) as well as pin 43 (Crankshaft Position Sensor B)
Pin 20 on the MS to pin 77 on the ECU harness (IAT sensor)
Pin 21 on the MS to pin 78 on the ECU harness (CLT sensor)
Pin 22 on the MS to pin 73 on the ECU harness (TPS Signal)
Pin 23 on the MS to pin 12 on the ECU harness OR to your Wideband output wire (O2)
Pin 24 on the MS to pin 16 on the ECU harness (VR signal from Crankshaft Position Sensor A) in series with 10k resistor
Pin 26 on the MS to Pin 59 on the ECU harness (TPS +5V)
Pin 28 on the MS to pin 58 on the ECU harness (Power On)
Pin 32 on the MS to pin 3 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 1) Both injector bank 1 pins can be shorted together, as they are the same output on the MS
Pin 33 on the MS to pin 4 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 1)
Pin 34 on the MS to pin 31 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 2)Both injector bank 1 pins can be shorted together, as they are the same output on the MS
Pin 35 on the MS to pin 32 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 2)
Pin 36 on the MS to pin 52 on the ECU harness (Spark output 1)
Pin 6 on the MS to pin 25 on the ECU harness (Spark output 2)
I performed a few mods to my ECU connector to make things easier/work.
Connected all the ground pins together
Connected pin 27 (MFI Control Relay) to pin 1 (Fuel pump). The MFI control relay is normally turned on when the key is turned on by the ECU. We could put in another relay control circuit, but I didn't see the point. I just linked it to the fuel pump relay, so anytime the fuel pump should be on, the MFI control relay is on (MFI control relay provides power to the fuel pump relay, as well as the ignition). It saves work on the MS end of things, however you have to insert a diode in series with it so the MFI control relay doesn't backfeed into the rest of the fuel pump relay circuit. First time I did this (without diode), the MFI control relay was 'always on'. Insert the diode and you're good to go.
Put a 10k Ohm resistor in series with the VR signal wire (pin 24 on the ms, pin 16 on ecu harness). I was unable to get a proper signal from the 60-2 wheel without it. Matt from diyautotune told me that alot of 60-2 wheels have issues, and his solution worked great!
For myself, instead of connecting pin 23 on the MS to pin 12 (O2), I brought out a power, ground, and signal wire for my wideband. Find a male and female 3 pin connector (or just use solderless connectors). Connect wires to pin 28 (+12v for the wideband), pin 12 (O2 sensor signal) and any of the ground pins (for ground, duh) all on the ECU connector. These can go direct to your wideband sensor/controller.
If you are using PWM Idle control (if you're following this guide, you are), take your 50+ watt resistor you bought for the PWM idle control, and insert it in series between pin 2 and ground on the ECU connector. This permanently grounds the PWM idle actuator in the closing position.
I'll be building another MS unit within the next few weeks so I will be able to double check that all of this info is correct, as well as add a bunch more stuff to it (all the extra sensors I didn't use the DB37 plug for).
Figured I'd make a new thread since FunkyPC's diy is MS-I related. I'd like to thank funkypc as his DIY is what gave me the confidence to go ahead and do this on my own rather than waiting around for someone else to do it first (KFX has just shipped their units as of this post time). Also, this DIY is to run MS as full standalone, not fuel OR spark as in funkypc's thread.
I'd like to mention that this is a lot of work, especially since I did this alone. You CAN do it yourself, but know that it takes a lot of time, reading, and patience, to get it up working properly. If you've never touched a soldering iron before, and don't have a decent unit with adjustable temp control, this probably isn't for you, and I'd recommend a KFX kit. I did this myself because I wanted to, because I enjoy learning, and taking on extremely difficult tasks. I wanted to know EVERYTHING involved with megasquirt, and I think I got that for the most part (definitely learned more than I wanted to). If you buy a KFX kit and something breaks down the road, you're kind of screwed, you'll have to send the ECU back. I want to be able to know exactly what my problems are. For me to make this, probably took about a solid 60 hours of work and research. For you to do this with this DIY, I'd imagine you're looking at 15-30 hours of work and reading depending on your proficiency with electronics and a soldering iron. If you do this build my way, you'll end up with an amazing product for a decent price, but you'll have to invest a lot of time into it. KFX's kit may cost more, but everything is done for you. Even so I'd still add the GM IAT sensor to your kit. Just depends what your time is worth to you.
Some background on Megasquirt first; Megasquirt has been around for about 6 years, and was created by Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo (Bowling and Grippo). They designed it as a DIY electronic fuel injection computer. They created several revisions of the MS-I assembly, the most popular being version 3.0 (there is a v3.57 however the v3 is the best board to use as it is more 'mod friendly'). It was a great system, however it had alot of limitations. Some other guys came along and created MSNS (Megasquirt'n'Spark), also known as MS extra. MS Extra was basically a group of mods to the hardware, firmware, and software of the original Megasquirt. These mods allowed MS to be used for a broader scope of applications, including the ability to run our tibby's as a full standalone. It introduced support for more toothed wheels (including our 60-2 crank wheel), as well as wasted spark ignition which the tib uses. It also introduced higher fuel table resolution.
Up until this point, everything was DIY. You purchased all of your components from a distributor, made your own case and all. All part #'s are given in the megamanual, so you can go to digikey.com and buy all of the parts yourself if you like. Or you could buy a kit from another distributor which already had some things pre-done (case comes precut, board is pretrimmed with heatsink mounted, etc).
Bowling and Grippo eventually released MS-II. It is simply an upgrade for MS-I. The install is very easy; simply remove the 40-pin chip from the socket on the MS-I board, and replace it with the MS-II daughterboard. It is sold as a complete board. The only mod required to the MS-I is to run +12v to JS9 (pin 16 on the socket) on the bottom of the MS-I board. MS-II uses a faster processor, more memory and allows even greater functionality (stepper motor outputs, higher resolution fuel tables, etc). However once again it did not include some of the base functionality that MSnS had. Eventually MS-II Extra came along to fill the void. So it is a combination of MS-II and MS-II Extra that this DIY consists of.
Today you can buy a kit and build it, or you can purchase everything pre-assembled and save yourself 2-10 hours of your time. First thing you'll need is the MS-I kit, along with the MS-II daughterboard. www.diyautotune.com is your friend! They have the best service I've ever seen, from any company, ever. I didn't buy my MS-I from them, and they actually took the time to look at the pics of the mods on my MS as I bought it, explained what the mods were to me, and gave me more suggestions and info, even though it didn't involve purchasing from them. Amazing company. Matt is also probably the most helpful person at msefi.com, and if you do a search you'll see they've always had customer service next to none. He helped me with my build when I was at a complete standstill and got me going again.
You'll also need a PWM Idle valve modkit, 2 x Bosch BIP373 coil driver modkits (probably only need 1 but replace the existing coil driver with this better one to be safe for $8).
Other things you'll probably want include boost control modkit and boost solenoid (control boost with the MS), MapDaddy map sensor (it's a 4bar map sensor, and includes realtime barometric correction). GM open element IAT sensor w/ connector, and a stainless or aluminum weld on bung (so you don't have to deal with boost leaks out your existing rubber grommet IAT sensor). I'd also recommend picking up a jimstim 1.4. It will come in VERY handy to test your MS during the assembly process, if you unit doesnt work, or you want to use it for testing.
Now also order a 35-40 ohm, 50 watt resistor, and a few 1n0002 diodes. They aren't included in the kits, but I bet if you email DIYautotune they'll hook you up, or you can order them from digikey.com. 2x Female DB-37 connectors, wiring. A couple of 1k, 10k, and 100k resistors (just in case). I don't recommend the DIYautotune harness because #1 we only need a foot of wire, and 2 it doesn't have wires in all the holes we want. My unit actually has a seperate DB-9 connector attached to the case for extra circuits, so you don't have to run wires into the case. I'd recommend finding a male ECU plug (the ECU connector, not the harness connector), and make a plug and play unit rather than cutting wires and connecting them to the new MS harness, but thats just me.
http://www.megamanual.com & http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra are your bibles for this project. Bookmark them, make them your homepage, read and read and read some more. The megamanual is written by Bowling and Grippo. Also download the MS software package here. http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm
Assemble your MS-I as per the instructions in the megamanual. As you read through the assembly guide you'll see that you can omit alot of the parts. I wouldn't recommend omitting anything at this point, unless you're sure you don't need it. However, here are things that I recommend you DO NOT install because you'll have to remove them later if you do, as the MS-II Extra mods will require it.
Do not install Q4, Q20, R34, R37, R38, D8, R57, R43, Q16 (only if you purchased 2 BIP373's), the standard map sensor (if you're upgrading to the 4bar mapdaddy). That's what I can think of off the top of my head, there may be other pieces you'll have to modify or remove once you get into the MS-II extra mods. Keep these pieces, as you may use them later on (especially Q4 and Q20).
As you go through the assembly process you'll need to make choices about your setup. You'll need to know that our cars use a VR sensor, not a hall sensor, on a 60-2 toothed wheel. We are using 4 cylinder wasted spark ignition, and are driving the coils directly with the BIP373 transistors. Install the 4 bar map sensor as per the instructions here. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ion-p-117.html
Note that even though we are not using the stepper motor outputs, you should still supply 12V to the MS-II board to keep the chip cooler (instructions are in the following link - read the next part).
I'd recommend testing your MS as you go, as described in the MS assembly guide. I purchased my unit used, so it was already built and working, however before making any modifications to it I tested it with the Jimstim 1.4 stimulator, and it worked great. Instructions on how to load MS-II firmware are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...n.htm#req_mods . Note; jumper 12V to the MS-II as described on this page. A reminder that once this jumper is in place, DO NOT go back to MS-I without removing the jumper... Not that you should ever have to, however if you decide to sell it or whatever, remove it.
So hopefully at this point you have a working MS-II unit, with MS-II Extra firmware. You're about 1/3 of the way there! Now time to do some mods! Hopefully by now you've picked up some decent soldering skills, and you know how to read a schematic. You should start with the basic stuff necessary to run our cars stock. Lets start with the wasted spark mod.
Jumper VrOut to Tsel. Jumper TachSelect to VrIn. Then follow the instructions here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...ion.htm#2coils to correctly assemble our wasted spark setup. Note that we are using BIP373's where they say to use VB921's, as they have higher current capacity and are more rugged. Using the V3 board helps us once we start to add mods, as it has a proto area we can use to mount our extras. As you go you'll read instructions to remove pieces, however if you've followed my instructions some of these will already be removed, however you'll have to install mods/jumpers as the instructions in the specific hardware manuals.
So now you should have it setup for wasted spark. If you had a harness made up you could go and hook it up to your car right now and run it, however I wouldn't recommend it. Lets setup idle control next.
We have a Bosch 3-Wire PWM idle valve. The stock ECU controls this by pulsing two wires to ground, one wire opens and one wire closes the valve (the third wire is 12V). To control this with MS, you have to do a physical mod to the wiring of the car (it is actually possible to do it IN the MS box, however thats more than I was willing to take on. I'm curious how KFX did it). The instructions are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...nual.html#idle . We're actually providing constant power to the close function of the valve, however through a resistor. This way the valve is always 'closing' but it's only receiving half the voltage it normally would. When MS wants to open it, it applies full 12v to the open 'side' of the valve, which overpowers the close signal, and opens the valve. You can hook up the valve so it's always open or always closed, and MS can close or open it. I chose to keep it always closed so MS doesn't have to work so hard (ie: the TIP122 will stay cooler).
Our stock ECU controls when the rad fan and A/C fans kick on, as well the the stock tachometer gauge. MS has extra outputs for porposes just like this. Programmable outputs for almost any function; http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...re.htm#outputs . This is where we'll use those 2n2222 transistors that we didn't install earlier in the build. This is also why I told you to pick up some extra resistors and diodes.
For the rad fan, simply install the circuit shown in the Programmable Outputs section (see the last link I posted). I removed my A/C, so I can't say how it works with MS (I don't really know the inner workings of Air Conditoning), however I assume it is similar to the rad fan. You may also have to use a programmable INPUT on the A/C switch. Briefly checking the pinout at the ECU connector, there are 3 wires for A/C; Condensor Fan Relay Control, A/C Relay Control, and A/C Pressure Switch. I'm assuming the A/C pressure switch triggers the A/C relay (I'm sure someone more familiar with A/C could help us out). I can figure it out later when I'm done the build on my car.
For the tacho out, install this circuit; http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...e.htm#tachoout .
Use the first diagram, not the 2nd, we don't need a variable resistor in line with the tach. A 1k resistor worked for me.
If you've gotten those up and running, then you're ready for the last, and most difficult mod (for me, anyway), which is the boost control circuit. You'll have to drill a hole and mount your FET on the MS case. (see pic).
Instructions are here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...ware.htm#boost . Note the diyautoune solenoid runs on a frequency of 19.5-40Hz, you'll need that info for megatune. You'll have to run a wire from the ECU connector to your boost solenoid (this will be ground), and then a fused 12V to the other wire on the solenoid. Polarity doesn't matter on the solenoid.
*********BREAK******
Pin 7-19 (ground) on the MS to pin 6, 28, 34, 55 (all grounds) as well as pin 43 (Crankshaft Position Sensor B)
Pin 20 on the MS to pin 77 on the ECU harness (IAT sensor)
Pin 21 on the MS to pin 78 on the ECU harness (CLT sensor)
Pin 22 on the MS to pin 73 on the ECU harness (TPS Signal)
Pin 23 on the MS to pin 12 on the ECU harness OR to your Wideband output wire (O2)
Pin 24 on the MS to pin 16 on the ECU harness (VR signal from Crankshaft Position Sensor A) in series with 10k resistor
Pin 26 on the MS to Pin 59 on the ECU harness (TPS +5V)
Pin 28 on the MS to pin 58 on the ECU harness (Power On)
Pin 32 on the MS to pin 3 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 1) Both injector bank 1 pins can be shorted together, as they are the same output on the MS
Pin 33 on the MS to pin 4 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 1)
Pin 34 on the MS to pin 31 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 2)Both injector bank 1 pins can be shorted together, as they are the same output on the MS
Pin 35 on the MS to pin 32 on the ECU harness (Injector bank 2)
Pin 36 on the MS to pin 52 on the ECU harness (Spark output 1)
Pin 6 on the MS to pin 25 on the ECU harness (Spark output 2)
I performed a few mods to my ECU connector to make things easier/work.
Connected all the ground pins together
Connected pin 27 (MFI Control Relay) to pin 1 (Fuel pump). The MFI control relay is normally turned on when the key is turned on by the ECU. We could put in another relay control circuit, but I didn't see the point. I just linked it to the fuel pump relay, so anytime the fuel pump should be on, the MFI control relay is on (MFI control relay provides power to the fuel pump relay, as well as the ignition). It saves work on the MS end of things, however you have to insert a diode in series with it so the MFI control relay doesn't backfeed into the rest of the fuel pump relay circuit. First time I did this (without diode), the MFI control relay was 'always on'. Insert the diode and you're good to go.
Put a 10k Ohm resistor in series with the VR signal wire (pin 24 on the ms, pin 16 on ecu harness). I was unable to get a proper signal from the 60-2 wheel without it. Matt from diyautotune told me that alot of 60-2 wheels have issues, and his solution worked great!
For myself, instead of connecting pin 23 on the MS to pin 12 (O2), I brought out a power, ground, and signal wire for my wideband. Find a male and female 3 pin connector (or just use solderless connectors). Connect wires to pin 28 (+12v for the wideband), pin 12 (O2 sensor signal) and any of the ground pins (for ground, duh) all on the ECU connector. These can go direct to your wideband sensor/controller.
If you are using PWM Idle control (if you're following this guide, you are), take your 50+ watt resistor you bought for the PWM idle control, and insert it in series between pin 2 and ground on the ECU connector. This permanently grounds the PWM idle actuator in the closing position.
I'll be building another MS unit within the next few weeks so I will be able to double check that all of this info is correct, as well as add a bunch more stuff to it (all the extra sensors I didn't use the DB37 plug for).
05-17-2009, 05:43 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Pa
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif
Thank you for putting this together frozen, Ive been working on mine for some time now and it seems you'll beat me to the finish line
again, All hail Frozen:
hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif
Thank you for putting this together frozen, Ive been working on mine for some time now and it seems you'll beat me to the finish line
again, All hail Frozen:
hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif hail.gif
05-17-2009, 06:52 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon
I got mine up and running a couple weeks ago, it's in my build thread. It's running well, just have to work on a tune. I've been procrastinating writing this, but figured it was time.