^^ I dunno... This project is designed to be a project for ANY amplifier setup. You'd need a variable capacitor to do the RC time constant thing on a unknown power source. Those suckers are expensive... Far more expensive then a digital setup. You could put caps on the output of the digital to make it look more analog. Then once all that's done, the alignment would take forever... It would be simpler to put it into a voltage regulator and then digital format, because if you somehow manage to blow up the $20 in standard radio shack components it would take to make this project you're out $20, but it would be at least 40-50 for a analog frequency meter.

 

so i need some help lol, i got all these parts like 3 months ago so it seemed like a good time to get around to starting it

i've never done anything with electronics and such in this manner and realized that even more when i pronounced a bunch of the stuff wrong at the store lol

i believe i have it assembled right as far as i can understand it but the one problem i have is im not sure how to wire the potentiometer, i tried searching on google except im still pretty clueless

heres what i got, did i assemble it wrong too? lol







what i dont get is when i solder the wires on the bottom, in which order do i wire the potentiometer cause theres 3 leads coming out from the bottom, do i ignore some of the leads? or are all 3 on each soldered together?

thanks

 

^^ You might want to stick to the part numbers I specified. The first model I made was enough to handle maybe 10 strings. The one 5 posts up from yours will handle a bunch more and be more reliable.

Your diodes are upside down. Your potentiometer is quite small for the job. You may be fine, but I would think that potentiometer will be the weak spot in this circuit unless you run just 1 or 2 strings at high power

If you really want to use that potentiometer, I'd clip the diodes out of the circuit. They prevent overload by acting like a wastegate for extra power across the LEDs.

The potentiometer will be configured as a "rheostat". Meaning it becomes an inline variable resistor. This is done by connecting one end leg to the sweep leg. Only one leg varries in ohmic value as you turn the potentiometer. This is the sweep leg. Usually the sweep is in the middle of the 3 legs. So basically, usually, if you have legs 1,2, and 3, connect 1 and 2, or 2 and 3.