tibwrcsbj

hm, i'll have to try this out tomorrow, i just bent mine down perpendicular to its original orientation. Redz, get that dynamat i sent yet???

REDZMAN

I got it today mang.

I'll try to do it tomorrow night, but my viper responder antenna is in the way of the mirror.

Vince_Grant

i was wondering why it was such a big deal to have it facing that way???

REDZMAN

It doesn't have to face that way. It's got to face the direction that it did from the MFR.

I've seen about 3 different sensors now, 2 of the 3 face different directions.

Just get it setup right and you'll have no worries.

cdogtibby1

what does the knock sensor even do guys...???

REDZMAN

It senses the knocking in the motor and compensates the fuel ratio for it.

KayJai

Actually,... it's a Knock Reference sensor.
The actual knock sensor is in the block. The sensor on the strut tower is like a "double check" and makes sure what the sensor in the block senses is in the block and not just road noise / bumps.
smile.gif

BTW Redz, GREAT WRITE UP!!!

Here is the BETTER explanation courtesy of Random,... for those who don't visit HA.com

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Originally posted by Random:
[QB] the 97-99 Tibbies have it mounted like REDzMAN shows. Pointed to the drivers side of the car.

Some 00's and some 01's have it pointed to the drivers side.

Some 00's and some 01's have a different sensor (different part number but looks the same) that points to the front of the car.

If you change the orientation of the sensor. 180 degrees, 90 degress, in any plane (horzontal or vertical) you will see a dedgregation of performance.

That is the inertia sensor. It basically functions like this.

You hit a "bump" in the road. This caused the inertia sensor to record an event, and the knock sensor to record an event. As long as both "record" the bump, the ECU knows it was a road bump, not detonation, and the ECU leaves timing alone.

If the ECU ONLY get's a signal from the Knock sensor, it assums this is "knock" and retards the Ignition timing.

NOW...The key thing to keep in mind is that the sensor is mounted WHERE it is, and HOW it is(to the strut tower) for a REASON. If you change the sensors orientation, or mounting location, you are in effect, changing the signal and type of signal it sends to the ECU. The ECU was calibrated with the Inertia sensor in THAT location using THAT orientation. Anything you do to that mounting location/orientation alters that signal. The ECU does not "know" you did this, and often mis-interprents "no signal" from the inertia sensor. Also, it may interprent "CONSTANT" signal from a vibrating mount like REDzMAN has.

Jeremy, I would highly reccomend you do something to secure BOTH sides of that mount, so that there is NO VIBRATION in that mounting bracket. In the stock mounting location, there is ZERO vibration. Your mounting location will have more or less constant vibration. The ECU will more than likly, falsey assume constant road irregularties...and not retard your spark timing when it should. This may, and probably WILL show up as more HP on the dyno, and more "seat of the pants" power, but in reality, you are doing damage to your engine.

I reccomend you simply machine (dremel or use a metal file or grinder) a notch in the existing bracket, to allow clearance with the strut bar. I did that for mine and it fit in the stock locaiton with the strut bar. (Shark Racing Strut bar and Motoria Strut bar) [/QB]</div>

Sparticus

i'm gettin this back on subject cuz i have a strut bar coming in soon....

I ordered the Racetech front strut bar from KSpec (should be in by the end of the week). i've read through the posts here and i also read the response from HA (which got more reponse there than it did here) and i'm still kinda confused on which method i should do.

Random said something about how if i were to do what REDZ's DYI says, that there could be a vibration issue and could throw the sensor off. or, if i went to the method Random said <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>I reccomend you simply machine (dremel or use a metal file or grinder) a notch in the existing bracket, to allow clearance with the strut bar.</div>. i'm sorta confused on HOW to do this?

mainly, are you SURE that your method (REDZ) will result in no negative affect to the knock sensor in the engine, and also to the knock reference sensor.

i also want to be reassured that this strut bar will work, since KSpec says that it won't fit w/ cruise control. i was told that it would be fine w/ RDs, but i want to be reassured

REDZMAN

Again, I've had this on my car this way for over 6 months now, lots of driving, with no problems at all.

I wouldn't suggest cutting the brace brackets as it may weaken them too much.

Bullfrog

Redz, i know this is old but would you be able to fix the links for the pictures? Or if your other post is still up send a link please please?

Thanks a bunch!