Auto To Manual Tranny Swap
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
From: tampa, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Tiburon
Thanks to all the people that helped me with this project:
Redzman, 2uniq, Random, Viper966, Turbulence, Shadohh, tibby01 probably a few others who I forgot but you know who you are, drop me a line
Here it is tunerz, what you all been waiting for, the tranny swap on a tib,
hopefully this can help you guys out, and give you some motivation do finally DO-IT-YOURSELF.
First, lets get the basics out of the way:
disconnect the battery for safety
drain the auto of tranny fluid
disconnect all the cables
separate the pulse generator connector
transaxle range switch connector
kickdown servo switch connector, solenoid valve connector and the
oil temperature sensor connector.
Remove the speedometer cable.
Remove the control cable.
coolant hoses
In this pic, the nut that holds the axle is taken off, after removing the cotter pin that goes thru it.
Here, the spindle is removed from the lower a-arm to remove the shafts. I used a pickle fork, and a pnuematic air hammer to get the lower ball joint off the spindle, BE CAREFUL not to ruin the bushing, or you will have to buy a new one for 26 dollars and 80 cents 02.gif
After the spindles are off, you can remove the axles, using a screwdriver to pry them out of the tranny. They come out farely easy.
Now support the engine, either how it says on www.hmaservice.com/webtech, or like I did it.
after both axles are out you need to take out the bolts that hold the tranny mount to the body, take off the rubber grommets, and there they are, MAKE SURE the engine is supported or it will fall and the underdrive pulley on the other side will press against the inner fender well, possibley damaging it.
here you can see the tranny mount from inside, you will need to take out the bolt that runs thru the mount so you can remove it to make clearance when dropping the autotragic.
now is a good time to remove all the connecting bolts to the engine block, REMEMBER to remove the starter bolts and the starter
also remove the transaxle stay and bell housing cover, thats a piece of metal that holds the tranny to under the engine, and the bell housing cover is a thin piece of sheet metal, you can see dow below how I bent it away, I didnt see the 2 little bolts holding it on
<span style="color:red">In the following steps the tranny will be removed, so take your time and be careful not to drop the tranny off the jack on to your foot </span>
next support the tranny with a floor jack, and remove the center member
the tranny is now only being held on by the input shaft, you are going to need to lower the engine a little top give it a lean, so you can slide it out off the shaft, as well as down under the fender
I supported the tranny good with a floor jack, then I let off some on the engine hoist, then I went back to the floor jack and lowered it SLOWLY, and the entire engine will slant giving you enough clearance to pull it loose of the torque converter, it was a pain in the ass, because the tranny kept hitting the lower anti roll bar, but eventually after a little pushing, and shoving, it cleared just enough to lower completly
Now you can get to the torque converter, there are 3 bolts that hold it on to the adapter plate, so you will need to rotate the torque converter, to get all 3
this is what it looks like after its off, and the bolts are removed that hold it there.
remove the adapter plate, and put on the spacer that came came in my VALEO HYPER RACING CLUTCH
Notice the bolts for the auto are shorter, so you will need the bolts that were on the manual flywheel
put the flywheel up and bolt it in
Now this was a pain in the ass the steel dowels that come in the kit dont fit thru the pressure plate so you will need to get a metal file and file the edges just a little so they go thru the alignment holes on the pressure plate, not really a big deal, they fit into the flywheel just fine, with a little hammering,
BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE SMOOTH FACE OF THE FLYWHEEL
Now align the pressure plate up there with the clutch disc in there, and slide it on to the dowels, if you have an alignment tool, GREAT, if not oh well, your sucking, but you just have to make sure its somewhat center.
OK using 2 vice grips, adjust them so they will squeeze the pressure plate just enuf to hold it there on the dowels, now get the bolts that hold the pressure plate on to the flywheel, and take off the lock washer off 3 of the 6 bolts so you can screw on the pressure plate, now take the other 3 bolts with the lock washer on and screw them in till they are snug, then take the 3 that you put on from the start, and take them off, put the lock washer back on and screw them back in, tighten them in a criss cross motion, like this
and soon you will have this, isnt that nice looking, also while you are down there, hehe, no just kidding, while you are down there, you can cut the range selector switch off and splice the 2 wires together, numbers 7 and 8 go together, to create a short, that tricks the computer into thinking its in drive, the other one thats spliced there is the reverse light wires, you DONT splice them together, I was just checking that they worked, and they did, just connect them to the plug on the manual tranny, and you will have reverse lights
OK now that you have the clutch in, now comes the fun part, well not really, running the shift cables through the firewall.
you will need to take off the left side of the console, behind the carpet there is a metal plate with a few bolts holding it in, take it off, and you will see up against the fire wall where the auto shift cables went through, MAN THIS PART SUCKED< the auto shift cable hole is circular, and the manual shift cable grommet is square and wider, so you will need to make the circle into a square, but by doing that you will have to cut out one of the threaded nuts thats welded to the firewall that holds the grommet in place.
So I suggest keeping the nut thats closest to the driver so you are able to screw it in on at least one side, the side closer to you.
I didnt get a perfect cut, the firewall there is pretty thick, so I drilled holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit, and used a dremel, to smooth it out as much as I could, but it was sloppy, there is absolutley no room to work in there, I cut from the engine side, but still there was no room
try and get a longer bolt, the same thread as the 2 you took out, so you can thread it in, cuz its a b**** to push that rubber square grommet into a hole that looks like an uneven octagon
when its all bolted in and tight, take some R32, silicone and seal up the hole around the grommet from the engine side so no water gets in
Now for the pedals, another toughy, but take your time, and it will happen
I was told you could remove the auto brake pedal, but when I tryed it just wouldnt come out, I could loosen all the bolts, but there was no room to slide it out, so I just took the arm out by removing the bolt it pivots on and pulling it out, then taking the manual brake arm, and putting it in the autos bracket, a little time consuming, to load the spring was a problem but using a long screwdriver helped
As for the clutch, well after you have removed the TCU, you will see the spot for the hole for the master cylinder and a spot to drill another hole for the clutch pedal bracket, there is one that you can use, that lines up perfectley.
again drilling a hole was time consuming but withe the right tools, it could have gotten done quick, you will have to drill from the inside of the car so you are at a 45 degree angle when looking up behind the dash, so drilling is akward, BE CAREFULL not to cut any wires, while messing around in there.
this is where you can see the master cylinder coming through the firewall, very high up there, just to the right of the brake master cylinder, its weird to fit it in there, but if you take the hydraulic line off its easier
On to the manual:
its a good thing to replace the axle oil seals, they were only 2 bux
After that should be ready to put in the manual tranny
Use this as a guide to putting it up
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.a...id=12438#_12438
On to the wiring
As you can see here, the wiring harness for the ECU
It was confusing finding the KEY INTERLOCK PLUG, but it looks just like the picture dictates, all the wires are black, so you just have to find the one according to the pic, DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE, youll never have enuf room to get it back together, I recommend a wire tap, makes things alot easier.
Redzman, 2uniq, Random, Viper966, Turbulence, Shadohh, tibby01 probably a few others who I forgot but you know who you are, drop me a line
Here it is tunerz, what you all been waiting for, the tranny swap on a tib,
hopefully this can help you guys out, and give you some motivation do finally DO-IT-YOURSELF.
First, lets get the basics out of the way:
disconnect the battery for safety
drain the auto of tranny fluid
disconnect all the cables
separate the pulse generator connector
transaxle range switch connector
kickdown servo switch connector, solenoid valve connector and the
oil temperature sensor connector.
Remove the speedometer cable.
Remove the control cable.
coolant hoses
In this pic, the nut that holds the axle is taken off, after removing the cotter pin that goes thru it.
Here, the spindle is removed from the lower a-arm to remove the shafts. I used a pickle fork, and a pnuematic air hammer to get the lower ball joint off the spindle, BE CAREFUL not to ruin the bushing, or you will have to buy a new one for 26 dollars and 80 cents 02.gif
After the spindles are off, you can remove the axles, using a screwdriver to pry them out of the tranny. They come out farely easy.
Now support the engine, either how it says on www.hmaservice.com/webtech, or like I did it.
after both axles are out you need to take out the bolts that hold the tranny mount to the body, take off the rubber grommets, and there they are, MAKE SURE the engine is supported or it will fall and the underdrive pulley on the other side will press against the inner fender well, possibley damaging it.
here you can see the tranny mount from inside, you will need to take out the bolt that runs thru the mount so you can remove it to make clearance when dropping the autotragic.
now is a good time to remove all the connecting bolts to the engine block, REMEMBER to remove the starter bolts and the starter
also remove the transaxle stay and bell housing cover, thats a piece of metal that holds the tranny to under the engine, and the bell housing cover is a thin piece of sheet metal, you can see dow below how I bent it away, I didnt see the 2 little bolts holding it on
<span style="color:red">In the following steps the tranny will be removed, so take your time and be careful not to drop the tranny off the jack on to your foot </span>
next support the tranny with a floor jack, and remove the center member
the tranny is now only being held on by the input shaft, you are going to need to lower the engine a little top give it a lean, so you can slide it out off the shaft, as well as down under the fender
I supported the tranny good with a floor jack, then I let off some on the engine hoist, then I went back to the floor jack and lowered it SLOWLY, and the entire engine will slant giving you enough clearance to pull it loose of the torque converter, it was a pain in the ass, because the tranny kept hitting the lower anti roll bar, but eventually after a little pushing, and shoving, it cleared just enough to lower completly
Now you can get to the torque converter, there are 3 bolts that hold it on to the adapter plate, so you will need to rotate the torque converter, to get all 3
this is what it looks like after its off, and the bolts are removed that hold it there.
remove the adapter plate, and put on the spacer that came came in my VALEO HYPER RACING CLUTCH
Notice the bolts for the auto are shorter, so you will need the bolts that were on the manual flywheel
put the flywheel up and bolt it in
Now this was a pain in the ass the steel dowels that come in the kit dont fit thru the pressure plate so you will need to get a metal file and file the edges just a little so they go thru the alignment holes on the pressure plate, not really a big deal, they fit into the flywheel just fine, with a little hammering,
BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE SMOOTH FACE OF THE FLYWHEEL
Now align the pressure plate up there with the clutch disc in there, and slide it on to the dowels, if you have an alignment tool, GREAT, if not oh well, your sucking, but you just have to make sure its somewhat center.
OK using 2 vice grips, adjust them so they will squeeze the pressure plate just enuf to hold it there on the dowels, now get the bolts that hold the pressure plate on to the flywheel, and take off the lock washer off 3 of the 6 bolts so you can screw on the pressure plate, now take the other 3 bolts with the lock washer on and screw them in till they are snug, then take the 3 that you put on from the start, and take them off, put the lock washer back on and screw them back in, tighten them in a criss cross motion, like this
and soon you will have this, isnt that nice looking, also while you are down there, hehe, no just kidding, while you are down there, you can cut the range selector switch off and splice the 2 wires together, numbers 7 and 8 go together, to create a short, that tricks the computer into thinking its in drive, the other one thats spliced there is the reverse light wires, you DONT splice them together, I was just checking that they worked, and they did, just connect them to the plug on the manual tranny, and you will have reverse lights
OK now that you have the clutch in, now comes the fun part, well not really, running the shift cables through the firewall.
you will need to take off the left side of the console, behind the carpet there is a metal plate with a few bolts holding it in, take it off, and you will see up against the fire wall where the auto shift cables went through, MAN THIS PART SUCKED< the auto shift cable hole is circular, and the manual shift cable grommet is square and wider, so you will need to make the circle into a square, but by doing that you will have to cut out one of the threaded nuts thats welded to the firewall that holds the grommet in place.
So I suggest keeping the nut thats closest to the driver so you are able to screw it in on at least one side, the side closer to you.
I didnt get a perfect cut, the firewall there is pretty thick, so I drilled holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit, and used a dremel, to smooth it out as much as I could, but it was sloppy, there is absolutley no room to work in there, I cut from the engine side, but still there was no room
try and get a longer bolt, the same thread as the 2 you took out, so you can thread it in, cuz its a b**** to push that rubber square grommet into a hole that looks like an uneven octagon
when its all bolted in and tight, take some R32, silicone and seal up the hole around the grommet from the engine side so no water gets in
Now for the pedals, another toughy, but take your time, and it will happen
I was told you could remove the auto brake pedal, but when I tryed it just wouldnt come out, I could loosen all the bolts, but there was no room to slide it out, so I just took the arm out by removing the bolt it pivots on and pulling it out, then taking the manual brake arm, and putting it in the autos bracket, a little time consuming, to load the spring was a problem but using a long screwdriver helped
As for the clutch, well after you have removed the TCU, you will see the spot for the hole for the master cylinder and a spot to drill another hole for the clutch pedal bracket, there is one that you can use, that lines up perfectley.
again drilling a hole was time consuming but withe the right tools, it could have gotten done quick, you will have to drill from the inside of the car so you are at a 45 degree angle when looking up behind the dash, so drilling is akward, BE CAREFULL not to cut any wires, while messing around in there.
this is where you can see the master cylinder coming through the firewall, very high up there, just to the right of the brake master cylinder, its weird to fit it in there, but if you take the hydraulic line off its easier
On to the manual:
its a good thing to replace the axle oil seals, they were only 2 bux
After that should be ready to put in the manual tranny
Use this as a guide to putting it up
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.a...id=12438#_12438
On to the wiring
As you can see here, the wiring harness for the ECU
It was confusing finding the KEY INTERLOCK PLUG, but it looks just like the picture dictates, all the wires are black, so you just have to find the one according to the pic, DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE, youll never have enuf room to get it back together, I recommend a wire tap, makes things alot easier.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Vehicle: 97 Tiburon
this is a pretty damn good diy. musta been very time consuming to type up...
but, ya know what? thank JEEBUS i bought a standard lol.gif i would neva wanna go through all this. as much as it would probably be a good experience to go through...i don't think i would have the patience for somethin like this.
good job man
but, ya know what? thank JEEBUS i bought a standard lol.gif i would neva wanna go through all this. as much as it would probably be a good experience to go through...i don't think i would have the patience for somethin like this.
good job man
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Congrats man, it's lookin fantastic. Let me know if you need any help with the writeup. Might wanna circle some of the pics for the areas you are talkin about.
Frantastic!
Frantastic!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
Nice Job!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent... Sadly this is too difficult for me (really scare to do this alone oops.gif oops.gif ).... But You are a good teacher showing all the steps.
One question... The OEM clutch disk is a 3 puck disk??? (see picture 14) Or I'm damm wrong??? lol.gif lol.gif
Excellent... Sadly this is too difficult for me (really scare to do this alone oops.gif oops.gif ).... But You are a good teacher showing all the steps.
One question... The OEM clutch disk is a 3 puck disk??? (see picture 14) Or I'm damm wrong??? lol.gif lol.gif
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
From: tampa, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Tiburon
exterior body questions
nope the OEM disk is full face, I have the stock one, but and its in good shape, Ill take a pic and show ya, I also have the stock flywheel.
thanks tibby01, TiburonWao, Blacktibs
thanks tibby01, TiburonWao, Blacktibs
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: North Las Vegas
Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Tiburon FX
I start swapping out my tranny tomarrow. They are both manual just that ones lost the 5th gear... will i need something to hold up my engine like you did? cuz i have nothing like that here...
