Juanra

what about the e-brake cables? is there any modification necessary???

Ericy321

You said to shorten the arm. Did this involve cutting and rewelding? I didnt see that in the pics.

Thanks for this MJ!

Juanra

did you cut the end and rethread??

and can we use any GK or only FL2???

Stocker

MJ if you're back that's great . . . but somebody(hey admins! ) make an archival copy of the images!

Mad_john

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ScoupeLS @ Nov 2 2009, 03:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>is there a reason why the rd control arms doesn't fit? and from what year are the kia sportage control arms? seems easier than RED method but its still a fair amount of work for the rear ones to fit.</div>

^ your useing a total diffrent knuckle setup. the problem with red is that the peps here have tryed it and ran in to problems later aliment issues and hight issuse as well. this is the best methoud


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Juanra @ Nov 2 2009, 05:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>what about the e-brake cables? is there any modification necessary???</div>

^ no mod need what so ever


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ericy321 @ Nov 2 2009, 05:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You said to shorten the arm. Did this involve cutting and rewelding? I didnt see that in the pics.

Thanks for this MJ!</div>

^ you need to shorten 2 of the Inner arms by 3cm and yes you can weld them

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Juanra @ Nov 2 2009, 07:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>did you cut the end and rethread??

and can we use any GK or only FL2???</div>

^ see in one of the pics where i point where you got to cut you cant rethread them due to the size diffrence rod pipe it narrower at the thred and thicker in the middle. < that did not sound right.


ok people you can not use the GK Crossmember it will not work the way it was intended. people here have had nothing but problems when they used that set up. i did a ton of reasurch on this and ask alot of people here and this way is the best. its the most pricey due to the fact that i used new parts and koreans dont like to blow money like i do. and so far 6 other guys have done it the way i did and have had 0 problems noise scraping or frame noise.

the gk will not work trust me.. i been in this game too long now.

look at this pic

this is where it must be cut and welded on the 2 inner control rods. when you do the aligment you dial them in so they are equal on both sides us a veiner calaipers and mesuer the distance from the head of the sliver bolt to the end of the thread on the rod. once you set them leave them. you do you toe adjustment on the outer rods. clear!

FlyRyde

Pardon my dumbiness, but if that weld breaks on the control rod, does that = I die? Like the ass end of the car flys to the left, and I go into a death roll? lol, just askin.

Ok, so exactly 3cm needs to be cut, and then the rod welded back together, and this will have to be done to each of the 4 rear control rods correct? Other than that, you say FL2 rear knuckles. Let me ask you, is there any reason why we cant just use the front GK knuckles? Like, why not do that instead of the XD knuckles and bearings with GK hub? I want to get all of my loose end questions out of the way for this smile.gif

Mad_john

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blacktibs @ Nov 3 2009, 02:44 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Pardon my dumbiness, but if that weld breaks on the control rod, does that = I die? Like the ass end of the car flys to the left, and I go into a death roll? lol, just askin.

Ok, so exactly 3cm needs to be cut, and then the rod welded back together, and this will have to be done to each of the 4 rear control rods correct? Other than that, you say FL2 rear knuckles. Let me ask you, is there any reason why we cant just use the front GK knuckles? Like, why not do that instead of the XD knuckles and bearings with GK hub? I want to get all of my loose end questions out of the way for this smile.gif</div>



Exbit A: track test pass track speeds 165+mph











still on car no cracks. get a pro welder to do the weld not your self. and you only do the 2 in the frount like in the pic. as for the frount why spend the moeny for them when you can use your oem knuckles and do one of 2 things 1 swap out the hubs for gk 2.0 hubs 2. re drill your 4 hole one and drill in 5 hole and press in new studs. i did not use the gk for the frount because it will make the car sit to high. they are diffrent in steering raito and hight. i have yet to have any problems with this set up. NONE this is what works anything else i dont know.

you could use gk i am not sure but if you use the fl2 you get bigger rear disk just look at the rear bearing and hub assy. that is as strong as you can get. look at that and then look at a rd1.2 rear hub assy and tell me you what looks better and safer..

FlyRyde

Wow, so you're saying that the XD front knuckles will be a lower profile than the GKs? And you're saying that the GK 2.0 bearings and hubs would be fine to press into the XD knuckles?

Juanra

can you post a picture were we can se the welding...

JC01tib

OK so I started my 5 lug. got my XD front knuckles and FL2 rear knuckles/hubs. then I came back here and all the pics are gone. sad.gif I tried to contact mad john but no reply
was wondering if theres someway to get the pics back up and also I need the part number of the "tuscon toe arms" as I could not make it out in the pic

Thanks