HyundaiKitCoupe

sorry to hear that man. i know money being dumped into the problem isn't going to help you but you should buy a spare engine and build it up. otherwise run only 4-8psi with a good tune. i cannot answer your other questions because my experience doesn't go in that direction.

41willys

thanks for the pity HKC smile.gif

I don't think I need to turn down the power with my setup, it has been running perfectly for the past months at that level (since June) and at 267whp + minor detonation for 3+ years except for this wastegate issue. But Mad_John had a point, I don't think my car had any room for error lubrication-wise. I think I pushed my setup to the limits (setup meaning all the clearances and oil pressure levels taken), and one wrong move (I don't think that was one, more like quite numerous actually) I blew it. I think that if this boost problem had not shown up, the engine would have lasted another year without problems (taking all things as they were).

But I was just wondering, can lack of lubrication be a by-product of overboosting+lean? And is it that certain that it can snap a rod? I checked on the compression and all three had except for #4 (or was it#1? it was the cylinder directly behind the starter). Cause I was thinking that maybe the piston gave in first (because of lean), and then the rod hit the wall and put a hole in the block. Just a thought. I still have to tear it apart.

If underlubrication was the case, my poor beta must have been going thru hell all those times... shit.

With the built-up engine, I'm just thinking about it because I can't afford to have my car down anytime. I want to do it right the first time but my wallet dictates otherwise. I use this as a daily transport from home to school and other weekend activities, that's why I'm irritated now to have to go thru the break-in process and testing if something is feeling weird and awkward before turning up the boost half-way to where I was. Plus, the fact that parts here are very very hard to come by. My most realistic option now is to buy a whole used engine, have it sleeved, take the rods and put back my pistons. But that damn engine costs $1000US more or less without ECU and transmission.

Ericy321

Do you have the 1.6 liter? Im just wondering because you keep talking about sleeves. I know with 2.0 you dont need to bother.

41willys

nope. the shop before that did my engine de-bored and sleeved my 2.0 to 81mm to accept the ZE Pistons.

Denisst99

usually the botom end isn't the weak link,
i've smoked 2 pistons (the last one was really a piece of art) but never actually had crank or rods problems...

why are you sleeving it to 81mm for ZE pistons?
are those pistons fro manother car?

it would be way easier/cheaper/better to just slap a set of forged wiseco in the stock unsleeved block

our blcok are very tough...

41willys

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Denisst99 @ Dec 4 2008, 01:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>usually the botom end isn't the weak link,
i've smoked 2 pistons (the last one was really a piece of art) but never actually had crank or rods problems...

why are you sleeving it to 81mm for ZE pistons?
are those pistons fro manother car?

it would be way easier/cheaper/better to just slap a set of forged wiseco in the stock unsleeved block

our blcok are very tough...</div>

this was as per my old shop's suggestion back in late 2003, which really was just a half-assed effort to fortify the bottom end and to lower the CR. ZE = 4AGZE Toyota lol lmao.gif these forged pistons are like what, $70US 4pcs (although used) here and they are very very easily accessible here in the Philippines. I was just a high-school student back then, so it was just saved up lunch money that goes into my car. and I was actually thinking the sleeving might help decrease a potential damage in the block...

now that you have brought that up, I was thinking of not sleeving at all. maybe the cost in sleeving could have bought me a set of proper 82mm forged pistons like wiseco ones.. thanks for the advice laugh.gif

some updates:

I went home earlier around 9:30pm and I just quickly tried to pull the motor out with some help. tomorrow I'll be pulling out the head, as right now it's 12:30am and I'm freakin tired from college work and the unimaginable heavy traffic I had to go thru. From what I have seen, it looks like the piston failed first (looked like a cracked piston from the spark plug hole, but it's very dark so Im not yet sure...) , letting the rod swing towards the block after.

Denisst99

indeed, forget about sleeving the block..
put the money on a good set of piston and call it a day

41willys

some updates:

Piston is okay, except for a little dimple because of a valve. Rod broke, and put 2 holes in the block taking the oilpan too.

After a week of deep thinking, I've decided to let her go... I've got 2 good offers already that's too good to refuse. 02.gif

I'll return the car to stock, cause I'll be buying a whole used engine. I'll be spending the proceeds on a used Honda EK hatchback + another 4 door car, since this will be a lot more economical (just in here i guess). I'll be moving away soon and be having a family. I just can't afford to spend tons of $$$ on my lovely 1st car anymore.

SOCKS, idk how you got over this feeling... 02.gif