mannyr

The other day As I was painting my rims and found that two of my magnum SS break lines were leaking fluid. I bought them 4 years ago on ebay and was unaware of the problems, until I saw the problem and research the forum.

I just order new lines and was wondering about the following.

When bleeding the lines. Can I replace one line at a time and bleed that same line in the order that HMA site recommends.

Or

I have to replace all lines, than bleed them.

The reason why I ask this is because I'm planning on removing the wheels so I wont get any fluid on my recently painted rims, and I don't have four jack stands.


What about gravity bleeding/flushing the system? Can you just open the bleeding nipples and let the fluid run, making sure you keep the reservoir full.

BlueRD2

Replace all THEN bleed. fing02.gif

It helps if you have more than one person helping you bleed.

One person pumps breaks, one person bleeds, one person watches break reservoir.

Im assumeing that you didnt put your other break lines on yourself then....
Bleeding is pretty easy as long as you take it slow.

mannyr

last time I changed them I did the two person pump method. But I was reading online that you can just open the bleeding nipples and let the fluid run out to flush/bleed the system, and as long as your tank does not go emnty it will get rid of all the air and old fluid. But it can take a while to do that, as the fluid flows slowly.

I also saw a product called the speedbleeder.com it's basically a valve that replaces your bleeder nipple and when you open it it becomes a one way valve. You press the breaks, fluid comes out but it does not allow air back in, A lot of euro and hot rod guys swear by it. That would be so easy

tanc

Goodluck with the gravity bleed, that will take you 10 years to do.

And the speedbleeder is basically for one man shows. If you have 2 people, open close from the wrench does the same thing.

mannyr

I went ahead and replace the lines. Changed and bled one line at a time, according to the HMA service order. Another thing if you change all the lines, than bleed all the lines, you are going to pull air into the system. Just change one line. at a time connect a clear bleeding hose to a small clear container half way filled with break fluid. I used a small Gatorade bottle and drilled a hole on the top for the hose. Make sure the hose is submerged just in case you mess up, you pull in fluid instead of air. Have someone pump while you open the bleeder. Close the bleeder screw and have the other person let go of the pedal. repeat until you you get rid of the the bubbles/old fluid.

just wanted to make some suggestions
before you start the break job, you should get new banjo bolts with washers ,clips,and bleeder screws or speed bleeders.

Keep in mind you wont be doing this for a long time. might be worth it to put in those new parts.

If you decide to keep the same stuff be very carefully and make sure to use a 6 or 8 point wrench. Initially use your ratchet to crack loose the bleeder just a bit, than a regular wrench to bleed it. same thing to tighten back again. The reason why i say this is because I did not buy the parts ahead of time and I struggle to remove a striped bleeder and banjo.

The breaks feel great and no more leaking lines

Tony Vendetta

hey am about to buy the magnum break lines, I was wondering if the break lines are the same for calipers, and drums?? becuz one of my tibs has drums on the back so what I was planning on doing is replace my fx tib break lines with the magnum and the oem break lines put them on my base tiburon since the oem lines on the base tiburon are leaking like crazy.

REDZMAN

Heh, you know what. go ahead and buy those brake lines, it just proves you don't search at ALL.

Might want to up your life insurance while you are at it.

bigfishmoney

What is the deal with the brake pads wearing so quickly?
Jeez, 3,500 miles and my front brake pads are already worn down
Maybe some slotted rotors wouldn't hurt too much in the long run?