KeWLKaT

Hey rotors are an important part of your vehicle! We're not talking about shifter boots here lol

Pascoile

True, unless you have bigger pads as well wink1.gif The pads with my setup have 50% more contact surface area of the original Hyundai pads.




I could, to be honest I haven't looked at that option for now. I don't know Wildwoods products very well yet, thanks for the hint, I'll look into it. cool.gif




Really? Nha... I can't be that bad... can I laugh.gif

Last summer, I have accumulated over 12 days on the track, mostly lapping and solosport. Besides one day where it rained heavily, the others where clear skyes and sunshine, so I kept the pedal to the floor. fing02.gif




Stoping hard in the street and on a race track are two very different things! Like I said before, I've been riding with this brakes setup for over a year now, daily drive to work. I've never had any problems what so ever with the rotors or pads. Thrust me... I'm far from being a model for society when it comes to respecting speed limits tongue.gif and the brakes have always performed great. The major difference betwen the street and track is mostly the repeted abuse the rotors have to endure on a 20-30 minutes lapping session, something you'll never reproduce in the street, unless you're running from the cops nana.gif lol Now multiply that abuse by 4 or 5 session per day = not happy rotors.

No need for the XG 350 rotors, the kit I've got is ajustable to either 11" or 12" rotors, but the problem I've got with the 12" is they require 16" rims minimum. My racing wheels are 15" (225/50-15 rubbers) and upsizing the rotors means doing the same with the wheels and tires. R-compound racing rubbers don't come cheap, the bigger they are, the more expensive. This is why I'm still rolling with the 11" rotors. It also give's me the chance to have a little bit bigger side wall on 15" wheels (50), which is good to let the tire work properly on the track. 16" or 17" wheel would have to be 45 or 40 instead, then the tires as little or no side wall play and the ride changes drasticly.




No I haven't, unfortunatly I don't have the money right now to buy a new set of wheels. I convinced though it would help cool down the caliper and rotor for sure.




Indeed they do!!! That's the beauty of hy-end exotic cars, the engineers designing these cars integrate cooling ducks in the front bumpers to help cool down the brakes. Just look at the Ferrari 360 or the F430, they don't have any fogs lamps for a reason wink1.gif Same with the Proche GT3 and GT3 RS, some of them have also the BBK factory option, bigger brakes with nice carbon-ceramics rotors, hummm cool.gif




Right on the sweet spot! They are over heating, badly... Why? that's an other story. I've gone over my entire braking system last summer (master cylinder, brake booster, brake lines, brake liquids, brake pads, rotors, calipers, home made cooling ducks, proportionning valve) and I've managed to slow down the cracking rate by a month maybe, but unfortunatly my last set (the slotted ones only) still endend up cracking in 3 spots, both driver and passanger side rotors. For next summer I'll redesign my cooling ducks to have them as strait as possible, with no bends. Hopefully it should help a bit, I'll have my next set of rotors cryo frozen as well, that might be the little thing that those the difference. If one set of rotors can last me all summer my goal will be acheived.

There's a saying that goes.... If your not braking anything, it means your not going fast enough! wink1.gif

So I don't expect one day to find the magic solution for my brakes that will allow them to survive more than one full season of lapping, without going bankrup of course, because everyone know that money can buy you anything tongue.gif

01tibby

i can help you out with measurements and part numbers if you want to go the wilwood route. it would probably come out to less than 300 dollars per pair. the rotors themselves are only like 30 bucks per, but the hats i was never able to find for less than 125. something might pop up on ebay though. something like these would almost work, but a new stud pattern would have to be drilled out, the center hole id isnt big enough(if memory serves me right), and the hat offset is less than ideal...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood-Big...sspagenameZWDVW

for the savings in cost i would go with these and modify though. after drilling the correct bolt pattern and widening the hole you might be able to just push back the rotor with a couple washers between it and the hat...not so sure if thats safe though.

REDZMAN

I PMed you but you didn't answer me, what calipers are you using?

KeWLKaT

He's using the Atelier HP aluminum calipers smile.gif

Pascoile

Yes I did, last night before posting this reply here, that's weird?

Sent again and/or here's a copy of the reply.