no matter what i do to take off these rotors it doesn't work.


me and my dad were using this device to pull the rotors off the axle, but it seems to stay attached to the hub no matter what we do.

it's just rediculous. anybody have any advice.

i did a search on captive rotors and found nothing to really help me.

 

i cant understand what your question is? what part do u need to get off? the lower or higher ball joint? or the drive shaft? or the struts?

i just did my captive switch saturday so i know what to do smile.gif

go into chat i will help you out

 

rear rotors?

is the e-brake on?

 

^^pat its for captive rotors they dont make rear captive rotors lol

 

if you take off the captive bolts it will make it a bit easier to get off

 

Are you trying to remove the whole assembly or do you just want to remove the rotor?

 

just the rotor.

 

u have captive rotors wich means your rotors are your hubs and they are connected with your spindle. u just want to change the captive rotors?

If you get rotors for the captive setup, you will also have to pay a machine shop to press in the bearings, which means you'll have to have pulled the whole spindle/hub assembly for them to do it. A common machine shop will charge 20 bux to press a bearing for you if its off the car already and all they have to do is pull the old bearing, and press the new one. If you keep it on the car and just drive in to the shop, like any tire installation shop, they'll charge a good 200 plus, just for doing the same thing you could.

Once you get the piece back with bearings, figure 40 bux for both sides done, so you're making your way up to the 250 mark just for some new rotors. PLUS once you've got the spindles back on the car, whether the shop does it for you or not, you'll have to pay for an alignment.

well the easyest way is to pull the spindle completly off. it will be a pita to just get the rotor off because u will still need to get your wheel bearings pressed. it would be cheaper just to change your setup to non captive rotors.

so to answer your question u need to take off the spindle and rotor then try to get the rotor off the spindle then take your spindle and new rotor to a machine shop with a new wheel bearing and let them press it then put it back together and get a alignment.

 

welcome to captive rotors family!

From webtech:

To remove rotor you will need:

A. Remove the drive shaft nut.
B. Jack up the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
C. Remove the wheel and tire.
D. Remove the front wheel brake assembly from the knuckle and suspend it with a wire.


E. Disconnect the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the Special Tool (09568-31000).
F. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt and wire clamp and then remove the wheel speed sensor. (For ABS vehicle only)
G. Disconnect the tie rod and ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool.





H. Disconnect the drive shaft from the hub using the special tooluse hammer (not hard appying on the drive shaft where nut was)


I. Remove the hub and knuckle as an assembly from the strut.



14. Check the hub for cracks and the splines for wear.
15. Check the snap ring for cracking or damage.
16. Check the brake disc for scoring and damage.
17. Check the steering knuckle for cracks.
18. Check for a defective bearing. (Refer to "Wheel bearing trouble shooting".)


BEARING REPLACEMENT :
1. Remove the snap ring.

2. Install the special tools as illustrated.

3. Secure the knuckle in a vise.
4. Tighten the nut of the special tool and remove the front hub from the knuckle.

5. Remove the wheel bearing inner race (outside) from the front hub by using the special tool.




6. Install the inner race (outside) that was removed from the hub to the wheel bearing, and then use the special tool to remove the wheel bearing.


7. Fill the wheel bearing with multipurpose grease.
8. Apply a thin coating of multipurpose grease to the knuckle and bearing contact surfaces.
9. Press-in the bearing by using the special tool.





10. Install snap ring into groove of knuckle.
11. Install the disc to the hub and torque to specification.

12. Use the special tool to mount the hub onto the knuckle.
13. Tighten the hub to the knuckle to 200-260 Nm (2000-2600 kg.cm, 148-192 lb.ft) with the special tool.
14. Rotate the hub to seat the bearing.
15. Measure the hub bearing starting torque.



16. If the starting torque is 0 Nm (0 lb-in), measure the hub bearing axial play.
17. If the hub axial play exceeds the limit while the nut is tightened to 200-260 Nm (2,000-2,600 kg.cm, 148-192 lb.ft), the bearing, hub and knuckle have not been installed correctly. Repeat the disassembly and assembly procedure.
18. Remove the special tool

INSTALATION:
1. Install parts to torque specifications.
2. Be sure to install the washer and wheel bearing nut in the specified direction.
3. After installing the wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bearing nut.
4. If the position of the split pin holes do not match, tighten the nut up to 260 Nm (2600 kg.cm, 188 lb.ft) maximum.
5. Install the split pin in the first matching holes and bend it over.

 

yeah this thing sucks.......but thanks for the info, we'll see how it goes today.