Today I bought rear brake pads and went to the shop to replace them.
When they took out my old pads right was about 4mm (0.16") thick and left were less then 1mm (0.04"). I was surprised why on one side wear was much more than on the other side.

Problem was - on the rear right caliper guide rods were stucked into carrier. Guys from the shop tried to take them (guide rods) out, but they couldn't (carrier is made from cast-iron, so they couldn't use force in order to not damage the carrier).

So I changed pads on rear left side and had to put old pads on the rear right side. :angry:

And now I need to find carrier and guide rods ASAP.

!@#!@$!@4 crap!!!

 

I am a little confused about what you are talking about...... By "carrier" I assume you mean the caliper bracket and by guide rods I am assuming you mean two rods that are on the caliper mount? I changed my rear brakes a bit ago. The only problem I had was not having the tool to correctly twist the caliper piston back in. These other parts you are talking about are what are really throwing me off. You should take the caliper off of the mount then remove the two shoes (yes it is normal for one side to wear more). The put the new shoes on (after taking the metal clips off of the back of the old shoes). Then the piston must be put far enough into the caliper that the new brakes would clear. The once the caliper is on with the wheel still off start the car and pump the brakes. Make sure everything looks good then put the wheel back on.

I assume that they knew all of this since they did one side correctly which is why I am really confused. Can you describe what you are talking about a bit more and exactly what the problem is?

 

well, he is right with the words...



just for your reference, you might also here guide rods be called "caliper slider bolts" and the carrier to be "caliper brackets".

it is not AT ALL good that your guide rods are stuck inside the carrier. you're actually supposed to be able to take those out so that you can lube them up with caliper grease. if they are seized inside, then you will NEED to get a new carrier and guide rods. make sure you lube up the guide rods really good...with CALIPER grease only. all other greases will melt.

uneven wear by that much is not good either...but is definately due to those guide rods being stuck in the carrier.

 

He is referring to the "floating" caliper design the Tib uses with the Guide rods the Caliper bolts to on the bracket. I went through this on my Driver's side with the bottom Rod rusted in one piece to the bracket. This makes Tib number 4 I have heard with this problem.

Unfortunatly Hyundai only sells the complete rear brake as an assembly at $200+

 

Crappy, I'm gonna do a search on junk yards for a bracket.

Guys in the shop said, if I wouldn't find one, it would be possible to drill old (stucked) rods out and put new one.

 

well, good news is Dmitry.. you can use the bracket from either the right or the left side. If you need a Guide Rod, I have one I can ship you for the price of shipping.

 

Thanx to all!!!
Thanx to Mad-Machine!!!

Problem is solved. smile.gif

Old bracket was heated and stucked guide rods started to twist (with big force), then they were taken out.

Holes were cleaned, greased. New guide rods were puted in.

Now I need to paint my bracket, cause it looks burned.

After heating bracket, it should get cold on it's own. You CANNOT use water to cool it!

 

cool man, glad you got it fixed!

 

good to hear, and yes...the cooling with water trick goes with everything you ever heat on your car, unless you are try to rapidly cool it on purpose(i.e..to break a bond).

heating something and cooling it that fast can cause the metal to do crazy things.

 

Can't you use Anti-Sieze too? That's what i used today ...

One of my rods was totally rusted in so i SMASHED it with a hammer while it was in a vice. The i twisted it until it came out.

Problem solved..