loosen bleeder, have someone sit in driver seat, tell them to pump brakes untill you see no more bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.

also make sure your brake fluid is full.

 

I did that first, then I thought it might help to close the bleeder and pump it to build up some pressure, then loosen it and pump it again, etc. But it doesn't seem to be working.
It shouldn't take THAT many pumps to fill the caliper should it?

I've probably done more than 100 by now.

 

i just thought of something. this was a rear caliper right? you shouldnt have tapped it down with a hammar...lol

dont close the bleeder, just leave it open and have someone pump it through a clear tube into a little thing to catch excess fluid.

 

yea, you might have destroyed that new caliper by tapping it down with a hammer. The rear is meant to be turned and forced in at the same time.

As for bleeding.. put an inch or two of fluid (you saved the old fluid, right?) into a jar and insert a clear plastic tube into it. The other end you slip over the bleeder. With the bleeder left open, you start pumping and it should force all the air and old fluid out and down the tube into the jar. As long as the tube remains below the level of the fluid in the jar, it will not suck any air back into the system when you release the brake pedal.

Also, make sure your master cylinder is topped up and keep an eye on it. You do not want to run it down and suck air into the system that way.

 

Okay, I bled it pretty good and now the brakes are feeling spongy.
Is this from not bleeding ALL 4? Or did I not bleed it enough?

Guess I got lucky, the caliper seems to still be working. How are you suppoesd to turn it while you push it down?

Also there is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, I just bought some brake fluid to top it off with.

 

zoned, you have 3000 posts. screwing in the rear caliper is probably the most talked about n00b problem next to captive rotors. come on man.

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?act=Sea...e=parking+brake


also, you are supposed to bleed starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder, which has also been said a bunch:

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?act=Sea...&highlite=bleed


you wouldnt need to get all 4 if you are just replacing a caliper, but you caould have ran the brake fluid resevoir down enough so that it sucked in some air and got it all in the lines. that being said, bleed in the correct order, re-bleeding the replaced caliper if it is the driver side one after the rear passenger one. you should get a big bottle of brake fluid, perhaps even 2, so you do a very thorough job. bleed each caliper until you are sure there is nothing but liquid.

 

zoned theres a tool at autozone that is like $3-$5 to hook to your socket wrench to help you turn and push. I've used it once or twice but I would say its not a perfect fit. The only thing is I forgot the name of it.

 

^^^ "Rear Caliper Tool"

fing02.gif

 

Well I went out and bought some brake fluid and completely drained the whole system, then put the new stuff in and bled them in order according to webtech. It turns out that 2 of my bleeder valves were rusted shut..took me quite awhile to figure out why I wasn't getting any fluid coming out, I hadn't expected those to rust.
Also, being that I went from dirty 50k old brake fluid and one non-functioning caliper to nice, clean, new brake fluid and a working caliper, I figured that I would notice a difference in braking. I don't notice a thing, sorta disappointing, especially since it was basically an all day affair. I bled them well too...I really don't understand how that could NOT make a noticable difference.. How long do you guys think it will take all the rust to get off of my rotor (the one that had the broken caliper of course)

On another note, I also picked up some fully synthetic motor oil today and put swapped some in. I hear that after 50k you're not supposed to switch because it can actually cause leaks, so we'll see how that goes. Anyway, my streak of stupidity and bad luck continues..I wasted an entire quart before realizing I hadn't put the drain plug in. LOL. Man WTF is going on with me lately..

 

honestly, with normal slowing down style braking.. you are not going to notice a thing. ESPECIALLY if you did nore replace the pads with something new and more grippy.

To be fair, the only time you will notice new fluid is after a long sustained series of hitting the brakes (like coming down a mountian road or on a track) when the fluid get's hot enough to boil. The pedal will remain harder than with brakes that have contaiminated fluid.