You have a 1999, so you do not have captive rotors. It is the 1998 and 1997's that have the problems with wheel fitment due to captive rotors.

 

when i put on my 17" rims I took the screws off. I don't trust spacers. My friend who sold me his rims had this type of lock wrench (don't know the name) but it clamps on and you can adjust the pressure. well i used that the loosen the screw then a regular phillips driver to take it out. those screws don't hold to much of a purpose.

 

On the 1999+ the screws can be removed. On the 1998- the extra 4 bolts CANNOT be removed. The original question was fitting them on a 1997 or 1998.

 

I have a 97 tiburon and I have the toxxins on mine...i took the screws of the back hub's and for the front I put spacers on it to cover the bolts.

 

How did you get spacers to match the 4 lug bolts, the for captive bolts, the wheel hub size, and the Rotor hub size?

Or did you just get "spacers" to move the wheel farther out than the 4 bolts...If so, all the wheel weight is being carried on the 4 lugs. I do NOT reccomend this. Eventually your lugs will bend/snap.

 

On Thursday I should have a pic. sent to Random to post of my 2k Shark with 17" Toxxin's on it. Anyone have any thoughts on painting or another fashion to change the RED center cap to JAZZ Orange? Or maybe White?

Thanks

 

What is your opinion on the plastic rings that come with some wheels called "Hub Centric Rings". I've had these with After market wheels on my 90' Excel (gone), My wifes 95" Sonata and my 93' Cavalier (gone). I was told that because the manufactuers made the wheels with a large enough hole to fit many cars this was needed to fit the hub properly.
Just want to know what you think or know about this.
Thanks

 

Better to have the plastic rings than to NOT have them. But it would be best if they were made of metal rather than plastic.

 

THey had trouble locating the spacers for my car to fit the 4 bolts and the hub but they called icw racing and they suggested a certain local dealer that carried spacers for that specific reason is what they said

 

I need to see a pic of these captive rotors, cause I ordered so wheels over a year ago and the place said that I needed spacers to get past the captive rotor screws. So I said ok send 'em, when I got the wheels I put the spacers on and then the wheel after all was said and done I took it for a drive, and I was like "WTF is going on". My car was shaking uncontrollably and I took those puppies off quik.

The wheel place actually let me return them! So then I discover SR and Team-SR and find out that I may not have these "captive rotors" after all, I have a '99 Tib. So Random can you please post a pic of what a captive rotor looks like, so I can know if all I have to do is remove those damn screws!