Schwitzer Turbo

Going 10/11/12's in a FWD?

Now I know a 10 second FWD street car is asking abit much (actually it isn't as there are a few in my state already, with FULL interia, 100%Street legal , they drive to the track and put on slicks,run the times and change back and drive home. these cars are running high 10's but a ten is a ten.

Now I would be happy if my could do 12's, realistically im aiming for mid 13.s on Street tyres.

However I think I missing some parts of the puzzle, or are my expectation to high? (I don't think they are TOO high as there are other people doing the times.....

Back to Business if I had a "how to build a 10's FWD" Guideline that would be awesome as I would try to accomplish most of it to get my required times, before I have to start cutting the car up, and go perspecs windows etc making the car not street legal. Maybe I just need a accomplished drag racer to send some tips my why but in myhood nobody lets anything slip...

If I had a guide line I would NOT feel it would be giving away Secrets as there is LOTS of engineering that needs to be done so a few words on the internet would be sending me in the correct direction not giving away secrets and as im in a isolate party of the world I highly doubt you will be giving away info to a fellow competitor Building fast cars requires MONEY and if if you have money doesn't mean you have the stomach for it, racing is a trial and error process. and sh1t breaks then the car stand and most people get fed up and sell the car, that's not me. smile.gif

Back on track, maybe there is Some dynamics or fundamentals I have missed.

cos currently the car is making enough power, the car weighs just over 1 ton only and the suspension is as built up the *** retail solutions will provide.

and the car has had a stage one weight reduction.
(Spare wheel,jack,tools,aircon,power steering has been removed)

a fast car needs a fast driver my only difficulty is getting the car out of the blocks, its a tricky situation, @ the next race meeting I will launch the car in 2nd gear as first is just so tricky and all the car wants to do is wheels spin.

okay what am I missing? am I put the cart before the horse?

187sks

There are lots of ways to go faster. Focus on the area giving you the most trouble IMO. So you have trouble launching it sounds like unless I'm mistaken? What is the issue? Excessive wheel spin? Wheel hop? Have you fit a LSD?

If you have 300+hp/slicks/LSD/bushings/motor mounts already and you're not getting wheel hop but have excessive wheel spin you might need bars to prevent rearward weight transfer. They're like wheelie bars for a RWD car except that they're on the ground already and they keep the car from squatting in the rear and shift more of your weight to the front tires.

Also, if your first gear is useless it'll work out better for you to get a taller final drive gear set than trying to take off in second.

Schwitzer Turbo

Hey 187 thanks for the feedback,

it amazing how few people respond to post's like these where someone is looking for answers beyond the norm/noob site of things.building the car upto this specs has been easy so far, the hard part is only starting now...

1) its a hyundai
2) its a hyundai Scoupe GT

So there arent lots of aftermarket upgrade kits avalable of any sort avalible.

@187: The car has Custom made Shocks for drag racing already, in the back i have Stock GT raised and hardend Coils so the car is Leaning Forward already to stop weight transfer. i want to upgrade my front springs but no one will shipp to AFrica sad.gif

What is the exact problem im not sure but it probably is Wheel Hop and wheel spin. i dont have a LSD, and there isnt one avalible for the scoupe so im considerting a Phantom grip.


Please tell me more about bushings 4 scoupe GT/Race spec. will these need to be custom made?)


@ the next race meeeting im goona try launch the car on 1 bar and when the car gets traction in mid 2nd or when i switch to 3rd im gonna hit the high boost swicth which will take boost to 2 bar,(launching with 2 bar boost is impossible) alternativy im gonna try launch he in 2nd gear.( that wont mess up the car to serverly will it?)

these are my next mods

Torque Damper (will have to be custom made)
Strut braces top and bottom (will have to be custom made)
poly mounts (will have to be custom made)
semi's




Please do tell and help a fellow hyundai in africa out..

187sks

No problem at all.

It's a fact that you are a rare breed. Someone trying to take a car that most people don't mod beyond intake and exhaust and make it a competitive drag car. It's hard to get input on this because most people haven't got much experience doing this and don't know how to even if they wanted to. If you want further help you might actually be better off looking through forums for more commonly modified FWD cars (try Honda, SRT-4, and VW). Most VW's have a similar enough suspension that the mods they make can be done to your Scoupe. None of the parts will really interchange, but if going to an adjustable tubular A-arm let them hook up better in first with X alignment settings then it would be a good place for you to start also. You just have the disadvantage that you will probably have to make the parts yourself or have them made.


I advise that you look through this thread and contact everyone that sells suspension or KDM parts. I think you're likely to get help from www.importshark.com but several of those vendors are likely to help. You might have good luck with Racing Performance Works also. They're a pretty serious company and they might have some specific insight to the weak points in your setup. Worst case scenario if it's required you can find someone in the US that can ship it to you.


You should feel the wheel hop if that's the issue. My Accent wheel hops so bad the car has shaken interior parts off before. If the car isn't hopping it's going to be a weight transfer or grip issue. With the stock suspension at full droop due to weight transfer to the rear your camber will change through the suspension travel causing you to lose contact area with the pavement. Stiffer front springs will help reduce suspension travel keeping your effective center of gravity closer to your front wheels and also ensure that you have maximum contact patch.

You can install the transmission from a Beta engined car with minor modifications. You can install a Quaife LSD into the Beta transmissions. All that's necessary is grinding a small protrusion off of either the block or the transmission, I can't remember which, allowing the two to fit together. The bolt pattern is even the same. You will need to modify your transmission mounts though, and possibly your axles. The Beta transmission is also a stronger unit and you have more options for gear ratios and final drive ratios. With a lot of power the best combo will be something with relatively close gear ratios and a relatively tall final drive ratio. Maybe a Spectra 5 transmission with a higher Elantra final drive or something like that.


For motor mounts you can replace your overly compliant factory rubber mounts with either a harder polyurethane mount or a solid mount. Either would probably be suitable for you. It would be best to have solid mounts made locally probably, and it might be difficult to find Scoupe specific polyurethane mounts.

As for bushings, you'll either have to locate a set or modify bushings from something else to work. Here is a set for an Accent to see what I'm talking about.


They replace squishy and worn out factory rubber bushings with firmer polyurethane versions. Worst case scenario you can cast them yourself but that means making molds for everything which is not a quick and easy option. The problem is that with squishy bushings your suspension geometry can change a lot without even flexing any metal parts. Under acceleration your tires will try to turn themselves inward towards each other. Anything you do to keep the suspension from doing that will help you launch.

You will get the biggest results from replacing your A-Arm bushings.


Launching under low boost is a good idea. Maybe going with a standalone with launch control is in your future. That's going to help you a lot. 2 bars of boost is a lot and having the ECU on your side helping you would be a huge advantage. Taking off in second won't really hurt anything but I doubt it'll bring your times down.


You won't need a torque damper with solid engine mounts and solid engine mounts will make a lot more difference.
Upper strut bars won't hurt but they won't help you much. Framing the lower suspension mounts together and stiffening everything will have a lot more of an effect. KFX Performance sells lower suspension bracing, you might contact them to see if they can get you some for your Scoupe.
Poly mounts are a good move all around.
I'm drawing a blank concerning the semi's. It was a long week. What are you talking about?

LSD, gearing, and wider slicks will probably have the biggest effect on your times. Hope some of this at least was useful for you.

Schwitzer Turbo

thanx for the reply, gunna do some home work and get back to you...

MechaniX_034

Two questions before we begin, how is your driving and do you have any traction control strategies available to you? There are times when the car is fully capable, but one or two two things with the driver might need a bit of work before the whole thing can work together. I'd just like to be sure that this isn't the case before going any further.

Schwitzer Turbo

@ MechaniX_034

My driving is above average but nowhere near Proffesional, i have Proffesional race car driver friends and they really punish the car and are lighting quick threw the gears(if you didnt see it you would not believe how quick threw the gear changes are)

driving aids, NO traction control . all i can do is launch low boost 1 bar and when i hit 3rd swicth to 2 bar or Launch the car @ in 2nd gear..

MechaniX_034

Well, unfortunately if you want to go quickly the game becomes maximizing the time you spend at WOT and minimizing the time you spend between shifts. So, you want to be as quick as you can going through the gears(some even use the rev limiter to flat-change) Also, where on the graph are you changing? Sometimes it is better to shift a bit past peak torque as well, so that you fall back into the powerband in the next gear. As far as the mechanicals go you may want to go get your alignment checked at a joint that has experience with dragway cars, and look into an anti-lift kit at the front while trying to play with your rebound to minimize wheelspin(since you've already given it sag) Also, do you have any means for providing more ballast at the front without increasing weight?

The boost switch strategy is definitely a good one(was about to suggest either that or gear-dependent boost) so the trick now might just be getting time to test, test and test some more.

Are you using street tyres, or drag slicks?

Schwitzer Turbo

had my car on the track for the first time, it was raining and there was already track bite down so it was slipper as SH*T and i had my cheap jap crap 17's street tyres on. did a few high 14's...

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/in...mp;#entry129233

187sks

You'll probably cut a bunch more time off as you go.