tanc

I don't know much about braking systems, most of done is replace disks, and rotors.

I was driving home yesterday and some idiot jumped infront of me, I had to slam my brakes hard. I noticed that my car felt like it wasn't stopping at all. It would slow down but the tires would not lock and skid, it would just be like a power brake with wheels not locking. I was confused so I decided to test them out.

Going 60 miles an hour I pressed the brakes to the floor mat and my wheels did not lock. Something is wrong here.

So I did another run, and I pressed to the floor, then released and pressed down to the floor again quickly and then my wheels locked. So I did some more test runs and it's only after I quickly let off the break then brake too the floor again is when my wheels lock.

Anyone know whats going on here? Sorry for the boring long a** post.

Mad-Machine

your car have ABS? If it doesn't.. you may need to replace either your pad or rotors due to glazing.. Also, when was the last time you replaced your brake fluid or even bled it? Air in the lines will decrease the amount of force you can press against the calipers.


Brake fluid is Hydroscopic.. meaning it absorbs water.. even through the rubber lines it sits in so if it is old, you might want to flush it.

tanc

pads have only 5000km on them.

What can be wrong with the rotors (they are stock )?

Mad-Machine

they could be glazed.. did you have them turned when you replaced the pads?

tanc

No I didn't.

BlackTibby00

It may be your master cylider starting to fail. Meaning the fluid is leaking past the internals and not creating enough braking pressure.

tanc

What has me thinking is this issue. ----when I depress the petal and press down again the floor, it will then actually lock the wheels, only one the 2nd press. Never the first.

This is why Im leaning towards master cylinder but I don't know much about breaks.

Im having my rotors surfaced machined on the weekend.

JalemX

I don't think tibs come with ABS so i'm going to assume that you don't have it , just b/c mine dont.

I would definatly exclude the rotors not being turned as the problem. If you got new pads on, they would be THICKER thus giving you more reach toward the rotor. So, if you were using a really f*cked rotor changing your pads would HELP.

Probably air in the lines, or break fluid. If you need to PUMP YOUR BREAKS in order to get more of a response then it has to be either. (unless j00 got bad lines)

When did the problem start , or did you just notice it and it may have been that way all along? Sometimes you get stupid 4ss mechanics doing stuff for ya (unless you did it yourself), maybe the dumb4ss disconnected your break lines then connected them back up without knowing he had to bleed them to get the air back out of the lines. Trust me , i know tons of people incl. myself who have brought there cars places and gotten them back all f*cked up. (Like the stupid fvcks at the dealership were i bought my car)

Anyways i'd flush the break fluid out with some fresh stuff (it's mad cheap), see if that helps anywhere.

Kit-Fox

actualy many tibs did come with ABS, mine didnt but i have tons of blank fuses all over the fuse box's and everywhere. I actualy prefer no ABS.

REDZMAN

I've never seen or heard of a RD with ABS.

Yes, there are idiot lights for them, but there is also a idiot light that says WAIT, and how many of us have seen a desiel Tib?