Beginnings Of The Diy Wilwood Kit
so i wrote this up for redz with part numbers one day when i had some free time and was drinking, and figured i might as well post it up for everyone. here it is:
so here is what is needed to make a front bbk in super detailed form.
MAIN PARTS
1. Calipers
2. Rotors
3. Rotor hats
4. Brake lines
5. Brake pads
6. Caliper brackets…mount universal calipers to specific vehicles
HARDWARE
1. Rotor bolt kit: attach rotor to rotor hat
2. Caliper bracket mount kit: caliper bracket to our stock spindle
3. Caliper mounting bolt kit: caliper to caliper bracket
FITTINGS
1. Stock hard lines to universal -3AN brake lines
2. -3AN universal line to caliper
You will also need to get safety wire and some safety wire pliers to mount the rotor hat to the rotors. The rotor bolt kit includes awesome hardware, for not that much, and includes allen bolts with drilled heads to allow for safety wiring.
Now here is what I went with, and what I think for the amount of money I put into it, is absolutely PERFECT for our cars. Im going to put down how much I paid for the things too. Its going to be hard to find the same prices, particularly on the calipers and pads.
MAIN PARTS
1. Calipers = 120-7432 L/R (paid 75 for one, 86 for the other on ebay)
Forged billet superlite. they have 1.38" pistons and are for a .810 rotor. I initially wanted a caliper for a 1.10" thick rotor, and .81" is around(or maybe even less) than stock thickness, but I talked to a bunch of custom brake people (TCE and the like) and the general consensus was that .81 will be fine, even for autocrossing. Plus it keeps weight and cost down.
2. Rotors = WIL160-0471 straight vane, so no L/R (28.37 each, www.pitstopusa.com)
UL straight vane rotors. .81" width. 11.75" diameter. I have 16 inch wheels, don't plan on going bigger, and want the potential to run the stocker wheels during the winter. These suckers were cheap, and will work fine while I save to get the srp rotors.
3. Rotor hats = WIL-170-6996 (125 each from summitracing) they were the one thing I couldn't get a good price on)
GT series shallow offset rotor hats. They mate up almost perfectly,
4. Brake lines = ALL48123 allstar -3AN to -3AN 18" (15.88 each www.pitstopusa.com)
Crazy cheap, good length seem very well built. I also coated them in a super durable heat shrink: HSPTFE4-050-FT from cableorganizer.com. if you go with the same thing get 6 feet continuous of the heat shrink, and use 3 ft on each brake line. When you are shrinking the stuff it is 4:1 ratio, so it shrinks down a bunch, but the length also goes down WAY faster than you would think.
5. Brake pads = 15E-6084K Polymatrix 7420E pads (35 for one set, ebay; 64.50 pitstopusa.com for the first)
I got two sets. E series seem to be the best for street sport applications. The best thing about the caliper is that there is like .63 inches of pad material, which is on the high side for wildwood brake pads.
6. Caliper brackets = haven't bought yet
I was thinking of trying the caliper brackets made for the scion tc for the same calipers. The pt. # for that is 250-9012 from wildwood. Looking at other measurements I cant even remember tells me that the bracket will get VERY close to working, and at the very least will provide a base for slight modifications, all for 37.43 from the dealer I was going to go with(cant find on the net). It is definitely worth the money imo, even if it doesn't work.
HARDWARE
7. Rotor bolt kit: attach rotor to rotor hat = WIL-230-6365 (16 each from summitracing, need 2)
Remember to safety wire them: http://www.wilwood.org/ds386.pdf
8. Caliper bracket mount kit: caliper bracket to our stock spindle = not bought yet
Again, these are the kits for the scion tc. You probably cant find the part numbers on the internet, but if you contact a dealer they can get you the price for them. i sent an email a while ago, but wrote down the wrong part number. Im guessing it will be around 30 bucks
9. Caliper mounting bolt kit: caliper to caliper bracket = not bought yet
Quoted 36.75 from a dealer near me
FITTINGS
10. Stock hard lines to universal -3AN brake lines
I was told they were regular flare ends, but I bought bubble flare ends. Hoping they work. At any rate, you need to know that you need a -3AN male on one side of the fitting and a m10 x 1.0 (probably regular flare) on the other end. I bought pt # 220-6890 at like 20 bucks a piece, get the regular flare ones though
11. -3AN universal line to caliper = WIL-220-6956 (9 bucks each, summitracing)
Connects line to caliper inlet. I think I also bought the 90 degree version just to be prepared
I have been drinking the entire time writing this. Anything doesn't make sense, ask me. Sam adams Octoberfest ftw.
Pictures of my mock up:














pdf of sciontc kit
My link
so here is what is needed to make a front bbk in super detailed form.
MAIN PARTS
1. Calipers
2. Rotors
3. Rotor hats
4. Brake lines
5. Brake pads
6. Caliper brackets…mount universal calipers to specific vehicles
HARDWARE
1. Rotor bolt kit: attach rotor to rotor hat
2. Caliper bracket mount kit: caliper bracket to our stock spindle
3. Caliper mounting bolt kit: caliper to caliper bracket
FITTINGS
1. Stock hard lines to universal -3AN brake lines
2. -3AN universal line to caliper
You will also need to get safety wire and some safety wire pliers to mount the rotor hat to the rotors. The rotor bolt kit includes awesome hardware, for not that much, and includes allen bolts with drilled heads to allow for safety wiring.
Now here is what I went with, and what I think for the amount of money I put into it, is absolutely PERFECT for our cars. Im going to put down how much I paid for the things too. Its going to be hard to find the same prices, particularly on the calipers and pads.
MAIN PARTS
1. Calipers = 120-7432 L/R (paid 75 for one, 86 for the other on ebay)
Forged billet superlite. they have 1.38" pistons and are for a .810 rotor. I initially wanted a caliper for a 1.10" thick rotor, and .81" is around(or maybe even less) than stock thickness, but I talked to a bunch of custom brake people (TCE and the like) and the general consensus was that .81 will be fine, even for autocrossing. Plus it keeps weight and cost down.
2. Rotors = WIL160-0471 straight vane, so no L/R (28.37 each, www.pitstopusa.com)
UL straight vane rotors. .81" width. 11.75" diameter. I have 16 inch wheels, don't plan on going bigger, and want the potential to run the stocker wheels during the winter. These suckers were cheap, and will work fine while I save to get the srp rotors.
3. Rotor hats = WIL-170-6996 (125 each from summitracing) they were the one thing I couldn't get a good price on)
GT series shallow offset rotor hats. They mate up almost perfectly,
4. Brake lines = ALL48123 allstar -3AN to -3AN 18" (15.88 each www.pitstopusa.com)
Crazy cheap, good length seem very well built. I also coated them in a super durable heat shrink: HSPTFE4-050-FT from cableorganizer.com. if you go with the same thing get 6 feet continuous of the heat shrink, and use 3 ft on each brake line. When you are shrinking the stuff it is 4:1 ratio, so it shrinks down a bunch, but the length also goes down WAY faster than you would think.
5. Brake pads = 15E-6084K Polymatrix 7420E pads (35 for one set, ebay; 64.50 pitstopusa.com for the first)
I got two sets. E series seem to be the best for street sport applications. The best thing about the caliper is that there is like .63 inches of pad material, which is on the high side for wildwood brake pads.
6. Caliper brackets = haven't bought yet
I was thinking of trying the caliper brackets made for the scion tc for the same calipers. The pt. # for that is 250-9012 from wildwood. Looking at other measurements I cant even remember tells me that the bracket will get VERY close to working, and at the very least will provide a base for slight modifications, all for 37.43 from the dealer I was going to go with(cant find on the net). It is definitely worth the money imo, even if it doesn't work.
HARDWARE
7. Rotor bolt kit: attach rotor to rotor hat = WIL-230-6365 (16 each from summitracing, need 2)
Remember to safety wire them: http://www.wilwood.org/ds386.pdf
8. Caliper bracket mount kit: caliper bracket to our stock spindle = not bought yet
Again, these are the kits for the scion tc. You probably cant find the part numbers on the internet, but if you contact a dealer they can get you the price for them. i sent an email a while ago, but wrote down the wrong part number. Im guessing it will be around 30 bucks
9. Caliper mounting bolt kit: caliper to caliper bracket = not bought yet
Quoted 36.75 from a dealer near me
FITTINGS
10. Stock hard lines to universal -3AN brake lines
I was told they were regular flare ends, but I bought bubble flare ends. Hoping they work. At any rate, you need to know that you need a -3AN male on one side of the fitting and a m10 x 1.0 (probably regular flare) on the other end. I bought pt # 220-6890 at like 20 bucks a piece, get the regular flare ones though
11. -3AN universal line to caliper = WIL-220-6956 (9 bucks each, summitracing)
Connects line to caliper inlet. I think I also bought the 90 degree version just to be prepared
I have been drinking the entire time writing this. Anything doesn't make sense, ask me. Sam adams Octoberfest ftw.
Pictures of my mock up:














pdf of sciontc kit
My link
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,992
Likes: 0
From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
just godly. have you tested them out yet and what kind of braking difference are we talking about?
it's just another reason i don't really care for any other cars despite their improvements, just love the fact you can build sweet projects like these on cars nobody else has. if i hadn't done the auto-manual swap my remaining cash would have definitely gone to this.
it's just another reason i don't really care for any other cars despite their improvements, just love the fact you can build sweet projects like these on cars nobody else has. if i hadn't done the auto-manual swap my remaining cash would have definitely gone to this.
i was talking it over with redz about selling it, but now im thinking i may just keep it (sorry redz).
i need to spend some time working on the car again, it's really therapeutic for me. with spring break right around the corner, i have a perfect opportunity to take care of some of the things on my car i considered selling, but may now want to try out.
the amount of time i spent researching this stuff and the excellent prices i got the parts for(that you cant get anymore) would really cause me to feel like an idiot if i sent it out to somebody.
i need to spend some time working on the car again, it's really therapeutic for me. with spring break right around the corner, i have a perfect opportunity to take care of some of the things on my car i considered selling, but may now want to try out.
the amount of time i spent researching this stuff and the excellent prices i got the parts for(that you cant get anymore) would really cause me to feel like an idiot if i sent it out to somebody.
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Actually, you posted this about a month ago when we were talking.
LOL
Keep it man, you do need to work on your car. I'm the same way, 3/4 of the reason I work on my car is to keep myself busy and take out frustrations since I can't run or play soccer anymore.
I'm here to help out with whatever I can bro, maybe you can help me piece my kit together.
LOL
Keep it man, you do need to work on your car. I'm the same way, 3/4 of the reason I work on my car is to keep myself busy and take out frustrations since I can't run or play soccer anymore.
I'm here to help out with whatever I can bro, maybe you can help me piece my kit together.
yeah, definitely. the main thing is price now. i was snatching up things off of ebay back when vendors were first selling and just trying to create a market for it luckily. seems like everything has gone up near msrp now.
blows.
blows.
just a bracket. havn't figured it out yet, but i could definitely machine something if the scion bracket i get doesnt work out.
you can see the general design of the bracket in the pdf file.
you can see the general design of the bracket in the pdf file.
if you can get me good dimensions for the bracket/adapter, i can draw it up in cad and have some brackets made for ya for very cheap.
all i would need it the distance between caliper holes, spindle holes and if they would be offset, and which way/distance they would be offset.
all i would need it the distance between caliper holes, spindle holes and if they would be offset, and which way/distance they would be offset.


