enigo

Both of my right side caliper's sliding/guiding bolts are sticking due to rust. Wears down the pads quickly and now squeaks...


Mechanic suggested I replace all 4 at this point as the left side could potentially develop the same problem.

So... looking for a set of Calipers as soon as possible!

optimoprime

go to a junkyard or car-part.com and search you can get them for like 45 a piece.

REDZMAN

I can get all 4 of them fo ryou from the junkers this weekend if you want.

BUT, why not just replace the slide with new ones and regrease them?

enigo

....

Good call on the junkyard. All 4 of em available at $15 a pop at my local yard.

I'll just have to check out what condition they are in and how many miles the donor car had. Searched the site and there isn't much information on how to change out calipers... Is it a process that I should consider doing myself? Back in school now... working... etc, so time has gotten really tight. If a mechanic can do it in 2 hours I might just be willing to pay the $100 so I don't have to worry about it any more.

Thanks for the tips!

Oh, and about the slide bolts, as I understand, it'd be cheaper to buy a replacement caliper than the labor of replacing the bolt.

REDZMAN

It's easy to do really, bleeding is the hardest part.

As for the caliper slides, they cost like $5 each if that, and are VERY easy to replace yourself. Get us some pics of what you are talking about so we make sure we are talking about the same thing.

radu_rd2

^Yeah, plus having a mechanic replace all calipers would cost you a lot more than $100 I would think.

enigo

Don't have a camera so....

The area circled in red... that lil rubber boot apparently has a lil hole in it, so rust developed on the guiding bolt, so now its stuck partially engaged.

The mechanic commented that my rh rear caliper has been messed with because the top bolt is 12 mm, but the bottom bolt is 14 mm. Both are supposed to be 12 mm I believe. The bottom 14 mm bolt wouldn't loosen. Mechanic was worried about snapping the bolt if any more pressure was applied, so it was left as is.

Sparticus

you'd be wasting your money if you replace the whole caliper just due to seized slides. in most cases you don't even need to replace the bolts.... just takes some cleaning/lubing and you'll be all set

only time i could see replacing calipers is if they're leaking, piston is seized, or piston boot is ripped open

enigo

Mechanic saying one thing... you guys saying another. Gots me confused slightly.

Looked up at this for some general information: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36brakesystem
/
http://www.bmwe36blog.com/2006/12/26/repla...e36-brake-pads/
Since there wasn't a DIY for replacing guide bolts or calipers here. (Hope that Redz puts that up soon)

Questions:

Does it matter that the bottom guide bolt was 14 mm instead of 12 mm? Or is does it come that way OEM?

Does the guide bolt replacement come with the rubber covers?

Since I'll be replacing the pad at the same time... suggested decent relatively cheap pads?


Thanks

REDZMAN

Your mechanic makes money doing what...

Come on man, you are intelligent, think about it.

Mechanics almost ALWAYS will try to oversell you on what you need, that's how they put food on the table.

My opinion? Make that f***er starve. LOL

We aren't selling you anything.



It's easy man. Take the bolts out that go into the slide. If they are difficult, spray the seam where the bolt goes in with PB Blaster and let it soak for an hour or so. Now, dont' be afraid to break the bolts... Honestly. If you do, just remove the 17MM (front) 14mm (rear) bolt that holds the caliper bracket to the car, and remove the entire assembly from the car, the bracket will slide off as there are NO THREADS IN THE CALIPER BRACKET. Once you get the bolts off, and you get your caliper free and out of the way...

Just pull on the rubber section. Entire thing will come right out. Clean it up, or replace it, whichever you want, but ensure all the rust is gone, and old grease is cleaned out, then regrease with brake grease, and reassemble.



Well, do you have a 14 and 12MM socket/wrench? Again, you aren't stupid, do you honestly think it matters?



The last ones I got did.



Just go to the local parts store and order what they got. It'll be good enough and cheap enough. Or save up $100 and get some Hawk HPS pads for the front and rear, excellent pads mang.