Winding Down Boost
Hey!
n00b question:
What is the cheapest & easiest way to wind down the boost on an internally gated turbo with the wastegate set at say... 14psi? I want to turn it down to around 7psi initially if possible. I'm wondering if this can be done without the need for an electronic boost controller or something of the sort. I know about replacing springs in externally gated setups but I'm told it's not that straight-forward in the WG actuators.
I've been looking around for turbos & have seen a couple that are pretty good (read "cheap") but that have actuators set way too high for what I want. I don't want to have to replace the actuator if it can be avoided.
Cheers for any wise words.
n00b question:
What is the cheapest & easiest way to wind down the boost on an internally gated turbo with the wastegate set at say... 14psi? I want to turn it down to around 7psi initially if possible. I'm wondering if this can be done without the need for an electronic boost controller or something of the sort. I know about replacing springs in externally gated setups but I'm told it's not that straight-forward in the WG actuators.
I've been looking around for turbos & have seen a couple that are pretty good (read "cheap") but that have actuators set way too high for what I want. I don't want to have to replace the actuator if it can be avoided.
Cheers for any wise words.
Well a boost controller will only be able to increase the pressure and not lower it, there are a few ways of going about it, you can have the spring in the wastegate changed for a lower pressure or you can get an adjustable actuator arm so you can adjust the length so the wastegate opens sooner, the best way would be to find a lower pressure spring for the wastegate and if you want more boost later down the road you can use a adjustable boost controller to get more out of it.
If you want a low boosting turbo say around 8 psi the t-25 from the 2nd gen dsm's are set at 8 psi alot of dsm guys say well mine runs 13 or so but that is because the dsm's have a electronic boost controller from the factory but if 8 is still to much use a spring it is easy just go to any industrial store and get a spring hook one end to the wastegate lever then pull it tight and use any bolt to hold the spring it is very basic but it works and just experiment I did it with my Honda Civic never had a problem boost would go to 8 but then level out at 7 and honda's d series is alot weaker than the tiburons and I ran on 7 to 9 on cold nights till I sold the car not to recent and for anyone saying the dsm turbos are crab yes they are not ball bearing and all but for a 100 bucks can't beat them and they were made by garrett for mitsu. later hope this helps
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Canada
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cheapest en easiest way to do it is to lengthen the actuator rod
cut lets says 1/4" of the rod tread both ends ( one left hand treads and the other right hand treads) and make or buy your self a coupling nut,im most case the longuer the rod the lower the boost will be
that way you'l lbe able to lower and raise the boost
cut lets says 1/4" of the rod tread both ends ( one left hand treads and the other right hand treads) and make or buy your self a coupling nut,im most case the longuer the rod the lower the boost will be
that way you'l lbe able to lower and raise the boost
^ So is the spring changing process similar to that of an external wastegate? If it is, I've received bad info as I was told that I may as well get a new actuator, which is roughly a couple of hundred locally from what I've seen whereas a new spring can be had for like 50-65 bux.
no this is just a spring you can buy from any tool type shop you can regulate the boost by how tight you pull the spring because the boost has to build up behind to push it open so just experiment with spring lengths shorter=more boost because it is tighter looser for less just bolt one side to any point as long as it is pulling the wastegate lever closed it is just more basic and it works.


