Whos using a stand alone system? How hard was it to install and tune? Any pros and cons to going this route or is a piggyback way less headaches and trouble? This would only be for a car running 10-12 psi.

 

standalones are typically harder to install, and harder to get set up from what i've seen. you have to setup all of your fuel maps and such instead of just adding or taking away a % of fuel/timing.



for a 10-12lb setup, there is really no reason (that I can see) for you to bother with going standalone.



obviously standalone, when understood would give you much more potential to tune than piggyback, but unless you really want to get 'deep' into it or pay someone a good chunk of $$$ to do it, go piggyback like the FIC or something.



there are a few people at least running standalone on here. Regit is i believe, tibbytib is running haltech

 

Red had a stand alone on his N/A 97 Revision A I think.

 

I'm using a MS3 (Megasquirt) Wasn't too hard for me to use, but for a beginner I think it would be overwelming. If you want to jump up to the learning curve or got deep pockets I say go for it. but a piggyback like the F/IC would probably suit all your needs. The only thing about it for me when I had a F/IC on one of my cars was that the F/IC was 300-400 plus a electronic boost controller 350 I was already at 650-700 bux. For an extra $100 I could have a plug and play megasquirt with boost control the ability to advance and retard timing launch control fuel control and nitrous. Just something to think about, either way you or someone else has to tune the car which also costs.

 

I am using the FIC, and it is very simple to get the hang of when tuning, also has great features like timing control that other Piggybacks do not, also, I see no real reason to go standalone from where i am at now, And also as Midnight ^^^ said, yea, the prices is kinda step for a standalone in some cases, like mine, I paid 325 for my F/IC new off ebay, Also bought a Tru boost which is a adjustabele boost gauge, that also gives you boost pressure, so that takes care of the boost controller and boost gauge for another 300, then all you would want is a wide band, which is another 160ish analog, 190 digital. So you in less that the cost of the standalone, and with the standalone you still need a few gauges and a widebacnd, so you do the math, but if you got the pockets for it, go for it, could be benifical in the long run. but also if you wanna drag race, N2MB has a Launch controller we can run, for 125 shipped, still cheaper than the standalone if you wanna add that.

 

Im also using the Mega Squirt but mine is setup to plug and play. I got it from KFXperformance. I have my car running on it and its nice. I have some starter maps to help you out if needed if you go that route. Ive used it now for almost 2 yrs. here is the link Mega Squirt KFX plug n play. It unfortunatly takes about 6 weeks to get it to you . They make them per order, but it is well worth the wait.

 

I originally bought a PRS-4 for my Tib so that I could go turbo. Full stand alone ECU but I could never get the crank pick up to work. One of those things where I probably lack the experience to have tried. So after having this paper weight in my car for about 5 years now I am switching to a PnP megasquirt.



Stand alone is more money and usually more work. But the benefits make the value worth is in the end.

 

I use a EMS Stinger 4424. Extreamly easy to use software, can tune via a laptop, when i got my computer it had no maps. Best to get a local tuner to do it for you and should only take 3-4hours with no start maps.



Cheers Ryan

 

im using a link ecu took a while to do all the wiring - easy to tune and can change maps depending on how i am about to drive



linkecu.com

 

smt-6 wit h4 extra injectors on my little accent.. been running fine and hard with my old super 60 and now with my gt3582r..

autronic standalone on my "new" GK looks to be very decent