What parts are needed for 300+ HP turbo setup?
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QUOTE
Red:
The weight of the pistons is like an extra 75 grams. That is absolutely nothing compared to doubling your cylinder pressures to get your requested 300whp.
Compressing half a liter of air at 1500psi over 3000 times a minute is more stress on the rod than an extra 75 grams of piston mass...
Ok... but if I blow up for the 5th time... im gonna fly to albuquerque and kick you in the nutzThe weight of the pistons is like an extra 75 grams. That is absolutely nothing compared to doubling your cylinder pressures to get your requested 300whp.
Compressing half a liter of air at 1500psi over 3000 times a minute is more stress on the rod than an extra 75 grams of piston mass...
tongue.gif Ill post details as i research this further...
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If you fly all the way out to Albuquerque to kick me in the nuts, then the least I could do is point and laugh tongue.gif
Seriously, I am like 99.2% sure that Onpol is using the stock rods. He and I talked about it quite a few times...
Stock rod and piston combo was like 990 grams. Crower rod and Ross piston combo was just a tiny bit over 1050 grams. In all actuality, the forged pistons are lighter than the stockers. It's actually my crower rods that are heavier than the stock rods which make it all "balance out".
The forged aluminum is very light. The crower rods are much bulkier than the stockers, which makes them a lot heavier.
tongue.gif Seriously, I am like 99.2% sure that Onpol is using the stock rods. He and I talked about it quite a few times...
Stock rod and piston combo was like 990 grams. Crower rod and Ross piston combo was just a tiny bit over 1050 grams. In all actuality, the forged pistons are lighter than the stockers. It's actually my crower rods that are heavier than the stock rods which make it all "balance out".
The forged aluminum is very light. The crower rods are much bulkier than the stockers, which makes them a lot heavier.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle: 1999 Elantra
QUOTE
Random:
hoses for oil/water
Stainless steel braided lines for oil/water. They are universal, you cut them to fit and put on fittings.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Universal style required, along with custom block plate for stock fuel rail/return line
Dumb questions: Where could I get stainless steel braided lines? Do you really need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator when using a Haltech?
hoses for oil/water
Stainless steel braided lines for oil/water. They are universal, you cut them to fit and put on fittings.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Universal style required, along with custom block plate for stock fuel rail/return line
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Hey lantraluvr, is your car equipped with MAF or MAP?
Red: Could you include in your book the differences in a setup between a MAF and a MAP Beta?
Also, how much boost will hold the OEM internal parts (pistons, rods)? and how much power would that amount of boost produce?
Red: Could you include in your book the differences in a setup between a MAF and a MAP Beta?
Also, how much boost will hold the OEM internal parts (pistons, rods)? and how much power would that amount of boost produce?
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
Where could I get stainless steel braided lines?
www.summitracing.com www.jcwhitney.com
Do you really need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator when using a Haltech?
Yes. Your Stock FPR will never handle enough gas flow through it for 300 WHP, so that means getting an aftermarket unit. As long as you are paying for an aftermarket unit, you might as well get an adjustable unit...
www.summitracing.com www.jcwhitney.com
Do you really need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator when using a Haltech?
Yes. Your Stock FPR will never handle enough gas flow through it for 300 WHP, so that means getting an aftermarket unit. As long as you are paying for an aftermarket unit, you might as well get an adjustable unit...
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Well, you don't necessarily need a new regulator with the Haltech. I'm going to buy one, but my reason is different.
The stock regulator is going to force your fuel pressure way high if you're using a big-assed fuel pump. Right now, my fuel pressure sits somewhere between 55 and 65psi because I'm using a 255lph Walboro high pressure pump and the stock fuel regulator.
This will force my 550cc injectors to run something closer to 630-680cc because of the higher pressure. BUT the Haltech is able to run tight enough injector pulsewidths that the car still idles and runs fine.
The reason that I may purchase a rising rate unit is just in case 690cc worth of fuel (550cc injector at 65psi = 687cc) isn't enough for my power, I can ramp the pressure just a tad higher and make those 550's squirt 750+cc...
I went with the 550's instead of a bigger 720cc just because the Hitman warned me off. He said that 720cc injectors are borderline too big, especially if your car has to pass any local emissions sniffer testing. He suggested instead using smaller 550's and higher pressure to make up for it.
Stock internals?
100% stock internals, the safe useable limit is somewhere around 220-230 wheel horsepower. The pistons are the biggest weak link.
If you replace the pistons with something stronger, Cheuk has told us that the engines are good to about 300-350whp. That's only changing pistons, so you're still running stock rods.
Anything more than 350 and you should go buy new rods and some ARP studs for the head. I opted to also buy ARP studs for the crank caps, but I'm not really sure it was 100% necessary. Oh well, better $50 poorer than sorry wink
[ October 24, 2002, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: Red ]
The stock regulator is going to force your fuel pressure way high if you're using a big-assed fuel pump. Right now, my fuel pressure sits somewhere between 55 and 65psi because I'm using a 255lph Walboro high pressure pump and the stock fuel regulator.
This will force my 550cc injectors to run something closer to 630-680cc because of the higher pressure. BUT the Haltech is able to run tight enough injector pulsewidths that the car still idles and runs fine.
The reason that I may purchase a rising rate unit is just in case 690cc worth of fuel (550cc injector at 65psi = 687cc) isn't enough for my power, I can ramp the pressure just a tad higher and make those 550's squirt 750+cc...
I went with the 550's instead of a bigger 720cc just because the Hitman warned me off. He said that 720cc injectors are borderline too big, especially if your car has to pass any local emissions sniffer testing. He suggested instead using smaller 550's and higher pressure to make up for it.
Stock internals?
100% stock internals, the safe useable limit is somewhere around 220-230 wheel horsepower. The pistons are the biggest weak link.
If you replace the pistons with something stronger, Cheuk has told us that the engines are good to about 300-350whp. That's only changing pistons, so you're still running stock rods.
Anything more than 350 and you should go buy new rods and some ARP studs for the head. I opted to also buy ARP studs for the crank caps, but I'm not really sure it was 100% necessary. Oh well, better $50 poorer than sorry wink
[ October 24, 2002, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: Red ]
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle: 1999 Elantra
Hey guys these are the components that I'm gonna use in my turbo setup. Please comment on the parts.
2.0 Beta (G4GF), CNK turbo manifold, T3/T4 turbo, CNK external wastegate, CNK BOV, CNK intercooler, CNK 550cc injectors, Ross forged pistons, Crower rods, CNK High Flow fuel pump, Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch, Haltech E6K, Fal 210 fans, Guages (Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, EGT, fuel pressure), Quaife limited slip differential.
Could the expected 300hp be livable as a daily commute in a tropical country with the parts I've mentioned? Could I turn up the power a bit more than 300 hp?
2.0 Beta (G4GF), CNK turbo manifold, T3/T4 turbo, CNK external wastegate, CNK BOV, CNK intercooler, CNK 550cc injectors, Ross forged pistons, Crower rods, CNK High Flow fuel pump, Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch, Haltech E6K, Fal 210 fans, Guages (Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, EGT, fuel pressure), Quaife limited slip differential.
Could the expected 300hp be livable as a daily commute in a tropical country with the parts I've mentioned? Could I turn up the power a bit more than 300 hp?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 45
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From: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle: 1999 Elantra
Guys I emailed Mr. CNK on the parts he can supply for my 300hp goal.
So, what you guys think?
QUOTE
1) Turbocharger (T3/T4 Hybrid
2) Exhaust manifold (polished stainless steel)
3) Intercooler (Polished aluminium) - the same unit as Batlords
4) Blow Off Valve with intake charge pipe
5) 550cc injectors
6) Low compression pistons with rings and big end bearings
7) Downpipe
8) Relevant fittings and hoses, connectors, clamps etc
9) Fuel Pump - high flow 10bar version
All for $2600-$2900 shipped. He said that for more than 300hp, I should go with Ross pistons. Also, he said I would need an aftermarket ECU which, unfortunately, he could not supply.2) Exhaust manifold (polished stainless steel)
3) Intercooler (Polished aluminium) - the same unit as Batlords
4) Blow Off Valve with intake charge pipe
5) 550cc injectors
6) Low compression pistons with rings and big end bearings
7) Downpipe
8) Relevant fittings and hoses, connectors, clamps etc
9) Fuel Pump - high flow 10bar version
So, what you guys think?
